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FRANCE. French art in the 17th Century: VALENTIN DE BOULOGNE (1591-1632).

FEATURE IMAGE: Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Allegory of Rome, 1628, oil on canvas, 330 x 245 cm, Villa Lante (Institutum Romanum Finlandiae Foundation). Villa Lante in Rome is an example of the work of the 16th century Raphael school in the reign of the Medici popes. The Renaissance villa, which was a residence for Roman aristocracy, was purchased in 1950 by the Finnish state. The Institutum Romanum Finlandiae Foundation started operating there in April 1954.

Ruins of the Coliseum in Rome, Circle of Willem van Nieuwlandt, II, c. 1600,  Pen and brown ink, with brush and brown and gray wash, on pieced cream laid paper,  35.3 × 61.3 cm (13 15/16 × 24 3/16 in.) The Art Institute of Chicago.
https://www.artic.edu/artworks/95904/ruins-of-the-coliseum-in-rome

INTRODUCTION.

Le Valentin de Boulogne (c.1591/1594-1632), sometimes called Jean Valentin, Jean de Boulogne Valentin, or simply Le Valentin, was a French painter. Born in Coulommiers-en-Brie about 35 miles east of Paris, Le Valentin may have been at least half Italian. His artwork was certainly influenced by Italian painting more than any other though he was familiar with Northern or Flemish painting. Le Valentin may have been in Rome as early as 1612 – German painter and art-historian Joachim von Sandrart (1606-1688) remarked in 1675 that Valentin reached Rome before Simon Vouet (1590-1649) who had arrived around 1614. Whether in 1612 or definitely by 1620 (Le Valentin appears in the census), Le Valentin spent the rest of his life In Rome. In the Eternal City Le Valentin  was greatly influenced by Simon Vouet (French, 1590-1649) and Bartolomeo  Manfredi (Italian, 1581-1622), a leading Caravaggiste or follower of Carravaggio (Italian, 1571-1610).

Joachim von Sandrart, Self Portrait, 1641.
Bartolomeo Manfredi, The Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew (detail).
Simon Vouet, Self-portrait, c. 1626–1627 Musée des Beaux-arts de Lyon.

Le Valentin’s oeuvre is today around 55-60 paintings, most of them identified by modern scholarship (i.e., Jacques Bousquet; Roberto Longhi). Le Valentin’s major commissions date from the last seven years of his life. Opportunities to acquire his artwork was  rare, though avid collectors such as Cardinal Mazarin (1602-1661) and Louis XIV collected them.

Cardinal Mazarin by Pierre Mignard, Musée Condé, Chantilly, France.
Louis XIV, Charles Le Brun, Château de Versailles.
Piazza del Popolo, Rome. “Piazza del Popolo.. Rome” by Nick Kenrick.. is licensed under CC BY 2.0

In Rome Le Valentin forged close ties with other French artists and lived with many of them in and around the Piazza del Popolo to the Piazza di Spagna. Most French painters born in the 1590s made a stay in Rome  – and influenced art in France in the 17th century. Reasons young painters fled to Italy in the early 17th century included depletion of opportunity in Paris due to the professionalization of artistic practice in and outside the capital although establishment French art was no longer flourishing. Conversely, Roman art – and not only the schools of Michelangelo and Raphael but new horizons afforded  by Annibale Carracci (1560-1609) and Caravaggio (1571-1610) -was at an apex. The Eternal City was drawing international artists from Paris and elsewhere and, between 1610 and 1630, the Roman style became internationalized. The dialogue among artists in Rome in this period was exciting – and its outcomes often unpredictable. The culture of Rome (and the papacy) could actually be liberating for foreign, usually destitute, often libertine talented young artists who had great ambitions for a prominent commission as they were exposed to Rome’s virtue and vice almost equally. Many of these young artists, even ones whose artworks survive, exist today virtually anonymously. Le Valentin de Boulogne is one of the better-known artists of the period, although his precise name is uncertain and his artwork requires connoisseurship based on modern scholarship.

Annibile Carracci, Self-portrait, 1604, Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia.
Caravaggio, David with the Head of Goliath, included a self portrait of the artist, 1610, oil on canvas, Borghese Gallery, Rome.

In 1626 Valentin, in Rome several years, was invited by Vouet to organize with Nicolas Poussin (1594-1665) the festival of the Accademia di San Luca ‘s patron saint. Around the same age, Vouet led the academy whose artists’ association was founded in 1593 by Federico Zuccari (1539-1609). This appointment signaled that Valentin was an active and respected rising French artist in Rome in these years. Though Caravaggio died in 1610 his influence was still felt very strongly in Rome in the 1620s.

Two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces—The Martyrdom of Saint Peter and The Conversion of Saint Paul—hung in the neighboring church of Santa Maria del Popolo which Le Valentin certainly had opportunity to study. In Italy, Valentin took swift, direct, and enduring inspiration from Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro and realistic depiction of characters drawn from Roman street life, including extensive use of half figures. As one of the young Caravaggisti, Valentin applies these elements to his artwork, whether genre or, later, Biblical subjects.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Group of figures seen mid-body, Louvre. https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl020210527

None of the works from Le Valentin’s earliest Roman years is documented, but it is believed he produced his Card Sharps (Dresden, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen), The Fortune Teller (Toledo Museum of Art), and Soldiers Playing Cards and Dice (The Cheats) (NGA) – and probably in this order – between 1615 and 1620.

In Le Valentin’s compositions which often contain several actors in a scene, the French artist’s realism and Caravaggio-inspired technique is often imbued with energetic rhythm in which diagonals and geometric concurrences play a role. This schematic suggests animation in the subject matter while retaining the human figures’ inner reserve and mystery. This creates a psychological quality in his artwork that is unique whichever drama is unfolding in the picture. Louis XIV who was an admirer of le Valentin acquired and hung several of his paintings in his bedroom at Versailles. Cardinal Mazarin, another art collector with a keen eye, acquired works by Valentin, some of which today are in the Louvre.

Andrea Sacci, Cardinal Francesco Barberini, Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, Cologne, Germany, oil on canvas, c. 1631-1633 (detail).

By way of Le Valentin’s important young patron, Cardinal Francesco Barberini (1597-1679) – made a cardinal in 1624 by his uncle, Pope Urban VIII (1568-1644) – Valentin became a competitor to his artist friend Nicholas Poussin. Le Valentin’s first documented work commissioned in May 1629 and completed in the spring of 1630 called Martyrdom of SS. Processus and Martinian is a compendium to a slightly earlier work by Poussin–both  in the Vatican (Poussin’s was a different stylistic statement called Martyrdom of S. Erasmus). Valentin had further won the patronage of Cavaliere del Pozzo (1588-1657), the secretary of Cardinal Francesco Barberini and one of Rome’s leading art patrons. Paid the handsome sum of 350 crowns for Martyrdom of SS. Processus and Martinian , after 1630 Valentin’s artwork continued to command high prices and prestige.

Valentin de Boulogne, Martyrdom of Saints Processus and Martinian, 1629–30, Oil on canvas, 118 7/8 × 75 9/16 in. (302 × 192 cm), Vatican Museums, Vatican City/
Jan van den Hoecke (Flemish, 1611-1651), Portrait of Cassiano dal Pozzo. Pozzo’s portrait was painted by Le Valentin though it is lost.

Though SS. Processus and Martinian is Le Valentin’s most important public work, he also produced many pictures for private commissions. There are several pictures by, or today attributed to, Le Valentin in many of the world’s leading art museums. Le Valentin produced artwork especially for the ruling Barberini family and their circle.

How Le Valentin died in 1632 is not certain though it was sudden and of natural causes. The professional artist who is admired in today’s major art institutions reportedly left no money to pay for a funeral. Identified as a “Pictor famosus” on his death certificate, Le Valentin was buried at Santa Maria de Popolo on August 20, 1632 paid for by Cassiano dal Pozzo (1588-1657).

Façade – Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo –Rome. Valentin lived in Rome on or near Via Margutta which is steps from the 15th century church.
File:Roma – Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo – Facade.jpg” by M0tty is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

SELECTION OF PAINTINGS BY LE VALENTIN DE BOULOGNE.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), The Judgment of Solomon, 1627/29, Louvre. 68 ¼ x 83 ¾ inches, 1.76m x 2.1m, oil on canvas.  https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl010061974

One of the most moving and beautiful stories in the Bible is the judgment of King Solomon in the case involving two disputing harlots over who was the mother of a living child (I Kings).

Both had had a child, though one died and the other lived. To have an offspring was considered a blessing. One harlot claimed that her living child had been taken from her bosom at night by the other harlot. She replaced the child with her dead child after “she had smothered him by lying on him” (I Kings 3:19).

Since this was a case of one harlot’s word against another’s Solomon had no simple and fair resolution at hand. King Solomon said: “Cut the child in two and give half to one woman and half to the other” (I Kings 3:25). Le Valentin shows the viewer what is at stake – a real flesh and blood child. The import of Solomon’s judgment could not be missed. Le Valentin’s women are modeled on those mothers and others the artist observed along Via Margutta.

Detail. Judgment of Solomon. Le Valentin.

When one harlot said, “Divide it! it shall be neither mine nor yours!” and  the other harlot said, “Please, my lord, give her the living child. Please do not kill it!”, the king’s judgement changed.

Solomon spoke again and said, “Give her the child alive, and let no one kill him, for she is his mother” (1 Kings 3: 16-28). Solomon knew a woman privileged to be a mother would seek to see the child live most of all.

It is this final pronouncement that Solomon appears to give in Le Valentin’s painting, as the complete biblical episode can be readily seen in the gestures and expressions of its characters.

Acquired by Louis XIV at Cardinal Mazarin’s death in 1661, The Judgment of Solomon has long been presented as a counterpart to The Judgment of Daniel. These canvases, which may actually be pendants, share the same format and show examples of just judgment in the Bible. The Judgment of Solomon is dated later than The Judgment of Daniel. There is a variant of it by Le Valentin in Rome at the Barberini Gallery in the same format and oil medium. The Louvre painting was restored in 1966.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), The Judgment of Daniel, 1621/22, oil on canvas, 68 ¼ x 83 ¾ inches, 1.76m x 2.1m, Louvre. https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl010061975

The subject is taken from chapter 13 of the Book of Daniel, the book’s addendum. In Babylon, a pair of wicked elders covet Suzanne, “a very beautiful and God-fearing woman” who was the wife of the “very rich” and “most respected” Joachim. After these wicked elders surprised Suzanne in her bath, she refuses their advances and they denounce her for adultery with the intent to put her to death.

Daniel condemns these wicked elders for “growing evil with age” including their past sins of “passing unjust sentences, condemning the innocent, and freeing the guilty.” Daniel interrogates them and, by their own words, shows the assembly they are lying. The painting depicts that moment of judgment.

Detail. Judgment of Daniel. Le Valentin.

Le Valentin depicts Daniel in the painting instead of Suzanne in her bath which was a more popular subject. Suzanne is at right, her hands across her chest, “As she wept, she looked up to heaven, for she trusted in the Lord wholeheartedly” (Daniel 13:35). A guard seizes one of the wicked elders as the other shows surprise and incredulity. Young Daniel, at left, is seated on a throne under a red canopy and stretches out his hand in judgment over the scene for their sin. For each judgment by Le Valentin the artist was inspired in some of its details by Raphael’s artwork in Rome. Louis XIV acquired the painting in 1662.

Valentin de Boulogne, Martyrdom of Saints Processus and Martinian, 1629–30, Oil on canvas, 118 7/8 × 75 9/16 in. (302 × 192 cm), Vatican Museums, Vatican City.

Within iconography that is cyclonic, two Roman soldiers are placed on the rack to be tortured after they refused their commander’s orders to sacrifice to an idol. The soldiers had been converted to Christianity by Saints Peter and Paul when they guarded them in prison. The altar to Jupiter is on the upper left while, at right, the commander clutches his eye with his left hand after God blinded him in retribution for the idolatry. The foreground figures build on 16th century Franco Italian Mannerist style. One has his back to the viewer; another grinds the wheel of the rack; and, a third bends down with his arm outstretched. All are advanced expressions of realistic figural development and rendered in spatial perspective correctly.

Le Valentin’s powerful painting is an artwork with a psychological dimension. To the left, a hooded figure, Lucina, is a Christian woman who encourages the martyrs to be steadfast as an angel out of heaven extends a palm of martyrdom. To the right, realistically portrayed, is a Roman soldier indifferent to another brutal slaying by the authoritarian government in the face of nascent, meddling, heroic, and expanding Christians in their pagan global empire.

With his attention to detail, Le Valentin’s picture accomplishes an exciting imagined drama based on Renaissance-inspired natural world observation and by way of colorful contemporary 17th century formulations that give a viewer visionary immersion into a complex and significant Bible scene.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632 A Musical Party, 1623/26, oil on canvas, 44 × 57 3/4 in. (111.76 × 146.69 cm),Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
https://collections.lacma.org/node/186803
Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Concert in an Interior, 1628/30, oil on canvas, 1.75m x 2.16m, Louvre. https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl010061973

Some of Le Valentin’s great ambition as an artist is demonstrated by this large format canvas whose composition includes eight realistically delineated  figures including 5 musicians and 3 singing youths. The five instruments are depicted accurately as well as the demeanors of the musicians and singers. Instruments have been identified by others as a polyphonic spinet, an alto, a chitarrone, a bass viol and a cornetto.

Detail. Concert in an Interior. Le Valentin.

The painting had been dated at around 1626, though more recent connoisseurship dates it to around 1628 or 1630. It was restored in 1940. It was owned by that avid art collector, Cardinal Mazarin.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), The Concert in bas-relief, 1624/26, oil on canvas, 1.73 m x 2.14m, Louvre.
Detail. The Concert in bas relief. Le Valentin.
Detail. The Concert in bas relief. Le Valentin.

Le Valentin painted seven figures gathered around a classical bas-relief. There are a pair of drinkers, one in the foreground, the other in the background; two singers; and three musicians – a violinist, guitarist and lutenist.

The painting, filled with mystery and gravity, is Caravaggesque and not merely telling a story or depicting a genre scene of performance. The painting has been dated to as early as 1622 by some connoisseurs. It was owned by Cardinal Mazarin and restored in 1959. It entered the collection of the Louvre in 1742.

Valentin never ceased producing genre paintings as attested by Concert with Eight Figures and Fortune Teller (both Musée du Louvre, c. 1628), and what is thought to be his very last painting, the Gathering with a Fortune Teller (Vienna, Liechtenstein Collection) in 1632.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Musicians and Soldiers, c. 1626, oil in canvas, 155 x 200 cm, Musée des Beaux-Arts, Strasbourg.

This is a tavern scene with impromptu music-making among transitory musicians. They are playing for a pair of drinking soldiers. Le Valentin’s painting is Caravaggesque with its interplay of shadows and light, dark palette, and depiction of realistic figures, and a psychological vivacity that is imbued by Le Valentin. It is by his passion and energy for Caravaggio that Le Valentin helped  revolutionize art in 17th century Europe.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Jesus and Caesar’s Coin, around 1624, oil on canvas, 1.11 m x 1.54m, Louvre.

In Matthew’s Gospel the Pharisees were plotting to entrap Jesus by his own words. They sent some of their followers along with local government types (“Herodians”) to flatter Jesus as a truthful and humble man. They asked him to reply to a question: “Is it lawful to pay the census tax to Caesar or not?” (Mt 22:17).

Jesus, knowing their motivation, responded hardly very nicely, by calling them “hypocrites.” He asked them to show the coin that paid Caesar’s tax.

Le Valentin’s painting depicts the moment when the Pharisee’s henchmen show Jesus the coin with Caesar’s image and inscription on it. Jesus tells them: ”Repay to Caesar what belongs to Caesar and to God what belongs to God” (Mt 22: 21).

Owned by Louis XIV it was put in his dressing room at Versailles in 1680. The Louvre acquired it during the French Revolution in 1793.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Soldiers Playing Cards and Dice (The Cheats), c. 1618/1620, oil on canvas, 121 x 152 cm (47 5/8 x 59 13/16 in.), The National Gallery of Art, Washington DC.
https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.107315.html

This painting is inspired by Caravaggio’s The Cheats in the Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth, Texas. Le Valentin’s painting, only discovered in 1989, shows a group of soldiers idling in Rome and identifiable by their piecemeal armor and other livery. The crowding of the figures into the picture space adds to the scene’s tension.

In this early painting in Rome, Le Valentin presents a scene of its contemporary street life. These figures are seriously gaming at a table where two players (center and right) roll dice and two others (left and center) play cards. A fifth figure in the background signals to his accomplice what is in the hand of the card player in a feathered hat. It is an early artwork that Le Valentin gives a psychological dimension.

As had been Caravaggio’s practice, the artwork is painted alla prima, that is, directly onto the prepared canvas without under-drawing or any preliminary work which works to give it greater spontaneity. The painting is indebted to Caravaggio not only for its subject, but for its vivid sense of actuality with which Le Valentin invested his protagonists as well as for the chiaroscuro, and a thinly and rapidly-applied brushed execution.

Valentin de Boulogne (French, Coulommiers-en-Brie 1591–1632 Rome). Cardsharps. c. 1614-15. Oil on canvas. Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden
https://skd-online-collection.skd.museum/Details/Index/415366

This painting is one of the first genre pictures Le Valentin painted in Rome. It is a pair of figures to which Le Valentin would soon numerically expand in his pictures. The composition is simple and sturdy.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Herminia among the Shepherds, c. 1630, oil on canvas, 134.6 x 185.6 cm (53 1/8 x 61 5/8”) Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen – Alte Pinakothek München. https://www.sammlung.pinakothek.de/de/artwork/RQ4XPr8410 

Erminia, the king’s daughter, escapes her persecutors and asks a peaceful shepherd family for shelter. The scene is based on a contemporary (1576) epic poem The Liberated Jerusalem by Torquato Tasso (1544-1595). The picture was a private commission whose patron was likely a Roman art collector and cognoscente. Valentin’s painting combines Caravaggesque chiaroscuro with exquisite coloring. In this realistic depiction of a human encounter between characters who represent contrasting social experiences, the subject matter is rendered psychologically sensitively.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Crowning of thorns of Christ, around 1616/17, oil on canvas, 173 x 241 cm Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen München-Alte Pinakothek, Munich
https://www.sammlung.pinakothek.de/de/artwork/bwx0jkJGm8

One of the great artworks of Le Valentin’s early phase in Rome, biblical subjects painted before 1620 such as The Crowning of Thorns of Christ were interpreted in the street-life idiom, with expressive protagonists and bystanders resembling the cast of characters in his genre paintings. Although the painting was earlier believed to be by Caravaggio, it may have been a pendant to Le Valentin’s much-later Abraham Sacrificing Isaac (c. 1629) in The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

This is Le Valentin’s most ambitious of 3 such “crowning with thorns” pictures. The artist in horizontal-format depicts Jesus before his going to Calvary. Christ is mocked and tormented; a crown of thorns is pressed onto his head (Matthew 27: 27-31; Mark 15:16-21; Luke 23:11; John 19: 1-3). With its dramatic lighting and shadows, the naturalistic depiction of Christ’s body and soldiers in contemporary costume is Caravaggesque.

Le Valentin’s scene adheres to the Bible episode: a whole cohort of soldiers surrounded Jesus, stripped off his clothes and threw a scarlet military cloak on  him. Henchmen have weaved a crown out of thorns and are placing it on Jesus’s head. Another puts a reed as a faux scepter into Jesus’s right hand. To mock him they kneel before him and say: “Hail, King of the Jews!” The soldiers spit on Jesus and then take the reed away and strike him repeatedly with it. When they were done with these violent actions, the soldiers stripped Jesus of the military cloak, dressed him in his own clothes and led him out to be crucified.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Crowning with Thorns, around 1627/28, oil on canvas, 51 15/16 × 37 15/16 in. (132 × 96.3 cm) Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen München-Alte Pinakothek, Munich https://www.sammlung.pinakothek.de/de/artwork/Dn4ZR224aK/valentin-de-boulogne/dornenkroenung-und-verspottung-christi

Le Valentin’s Passion theme is a later vertical-format picture of a subject he had painted masterly before. In these last years the subject matter had gained in classical beauty as well as psychological involvement compared to Le Valentin’s earlier artwork. The painting covers over a discarded portrait of Cardinal Barberini which suggests Valentin’s close relationship with the ecclesial prince, very likely being in his employ. What caused the artist to revisit the subject of a brutalized Christ is unclear though it may have been based on the artist’s own struggles or that of his employer whose portrait he painted over.

Valentin de Boulogne (French, 1591–1632), Noli me tangere  c. 1620. Oil on canvas. Perugia, Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria.
Valentin de Boulogne (French, 1591–1632), Christ and the Samaritan Woman c. 1620. Oil on canvas. Perugia, Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria.
Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, 1622/24, oil on canvas, 195 x 261 cm, Prado, Madrid. Spain.

St. Laurence (225-258)—Laurentius is Latin for ”laurelled”—became a popular early Roman martyr. Laurence has been continually highly honored by the church since the 4th century and is a patron of Rome.

In the mid 3rd century, Laurence was archdeacon to the new pope, Sixtus II (257-258). Sixtus II was martyred along with his seven deacons, including Laurence, during the persecution of Christians by Emperor Valerian (199-264). When Laurence met the pope, the pope was under arrest and Laurence expressed the desire to join him in his sufferings. Sixtus promised Laurence that martyrdom would soon be his but in the meantime asked his archdeacon to distribute the church property among the poor. Word of this planned dispersal reached the ears of the Emperor and Laurence was arrested.

Following the pope’s martyrdom by decapitation, Laurence, in prison, was ordered three days’ reprieve to collect and hand over the church treasures to the emperor. Instead, Laurence gathered and distributed these goods to Rome’s poor folk and presented the people to the emperor. These paupers appeared in Le Valentin’s painting to the left.

Infuriated, the emperor ordered the Catholic deacon to sacrifice to Rome’s gods which Laurence refused to do (in prison Laurence converted his guard) and was summarily condemned. After undergoing a series of tortures, the 32-year-old Laurence was martyred by the method of being roasted alive over a fire on a spit. The saint is famously quoted as telling his executioners: “One side is roasted, so you can turn me over and roast the other side.”

In the Prado Le Valentin gives orderly arrangement to a complex scene of 15 figures and a horse. It shows the saint during his martyrdom isolated in the center of the composition. As with Caravaggio’s figures, the soldiers are in modern costume, use of chiaroscuro is evident, and further drama is added by the use of diagonals whose construction suggest movement that add to the tension of the naturally rendered figures. However, Le Valentin uses these derived elements unconventionally.

St. Laurence is the patron saint of people whose occupation involves working with fire such as traditionally cooks, bakers, brewers, textile cleaners, and tanners and also those whose occupation values fire prevention such as traditionally librarians, archivists, miners, and poor people. St. Laurence of Rome is also, truly, the patron saint of comedians.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), St Luke, Evangelist, 1624/26, oil on canvas, 120 x 146 cm, Palace of Versailles, Versailles.
Detail. St. Luke Evangelist. Le Valentin.

Dating from the years 1624-1626, le Valentin painted all four Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke and John) for the same religious order in Rome whose name is unknown. They entered the collections of the Sun King in 1670.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), The Last Supper, c. 1625, oil on canvas, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, Palazzo Barberini, Rome.

For his The Last Supper, Le Valentin was, at least through engravings, aware of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper (c. 1495–1498) in Milan and Raphael’s Last Supper (1518-1519) in Palazzi Pontifici, Vatican. Le Valentin explores the 12 apostles’ reactions. Commissioned by Asdrubale Mattei (d. 1638), one of Rome’s nobili, to decorate a gallery in his family’s palace, the picture depicts a central event presented in the gospels. The moment that is depicted in these Last Supper paintings is when Christ announces that one of his disciples will betray him. Judas, in the foreground left, was treasurer for Jesus’s disciples and betrayed Jesus for a bribe payment of 30 pieces of silver. The picture, with its simple and monumental composition, so impressed Jacques-Louis David  (1748-1825) in 1779 that he copied it and sent it from Rome to Paris.

Portrait of Asdrubale Mattei di Giove, 17th century, attributed to Caravaggio, Condé Museum, Chantilly, France.
https://www.musee-conde.fr/fr/notice/pe-61-portrait-d-asdrubale-mattei-di-giove-1318fe15-3a5f-48ef-9486-e6920ed8d0b8
Valentin de Boulogne, Samson, 1631, Oil on canvas, 135.6 x 102.8 cm (53 3/8 x 40 1/2 in.), The Cleveland Museum of Art. https://www.clevelandart.org/art/1972.50

An Old Testament Judge, Samson was born in a miraculous fashion and with an angel telling his mother and father, “No razor shall touch his head” (Judges 13:5). Samson is often depicted with his locks unshorn. As a youth Samson displayed an incredible physical strength attributed to “the spirit of the Lord rushing upon him” (Judges 14:6).

Le Valentin’s picture presents Samson’s legendary strength by showing the solid demeanor of his physical body as well as objects which hold symbolic value of his strength. These include that he killed a lion with his bare hands and liberated the Israelites by slaughtering a thousand Philistines with a donkey’s jawbone (Judges 15: 15-16). The strength of his arm is displayed as his fingers curl under his jaw as his wandering gaze looks off with intense interiority. One contemporary allusion in the painting is Samson’s breastplate which is joined at the shoulder by a clasp in the form of a bee which was the emblem of the Barberini family who commissioned the painting. It is speculated that the facial features of Samson in a picture before his fateful meeting with Delilah (Judges 16), may be a self-portrait of Le Valentin.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591–1632), Judith with the Head of Holofernes. c. 1626-27. Oil on canvas. Musée des Augustins, Toulouse.

The story of Judith in the Old Testament relates of a woman of great beauty and reverence to the God of Israel who is highly respected by her people and its leaders. The nation, desperate for survival, turns to Judith who is given the opportunity to kill their enemy’s military leader which she believes she can and must do and that all believed impossible as Israel’s military defeat by their enemies was a foregone conclusion.

The story has a femme fatale aspect as Holofernes was captivated by Judith’s physical appearance, but the Biblical episode of the execution, while a climax of her mission, pales in comparison with the relating of Judith’s overall dedication to her people and her God, a femme forte, which carries on into her long life of blessedness to her natural death. Le Valentin chooses that sacred element of the Bible book when he shows an iconic Judith, triumphant woman of Israel, holding in her hands the decapitated head of one of Israel’s once-formidable mortal enemies. Judith is shown as a heroic woman with her hand raised as she admonishes: “But the Almighty Lord hath disappointed them by the hand of a woman.”

For Le Valentin’s artwork, Judith is an icon of God’s justice to his obedient people. Purchased for French King Louis XIV from German banker Everhard Jabach, the picture was installed in the king’s bedroom at Versailles to be especially admired.

The picture belongs to Le Valentin’s period of maturity for it displays the artist’s full interpretation of the realism of Caravaggio and Manfredi though, as expressed here, with a new appreciation for colors. The pretext of a Judith who, according to the Bible, had adorned herself in her best finery so not to dissuade Holofernes’s gaze (Judith, 13, 14), allows le Valentin to illuminate the dress’s rich fabrics with monochrome refractions, while the jewels and hair are bathed in ethereal light.

Detail. Valentin de Boulogne (1591–1632), David with the head of Goliath, c. 1615/16, oil on canvas, 99 x 134 cm, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza Madrid,
Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), The Four Ages of Man, c. 1627/30, oil on canvas,. London, National Gallery.
https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/valentin-de-boulogne-the-four-ages-of-man

The Four Ages of Man is a painting commissioned by Cardinal Barberini. It is an allegorical work whose human figures are painted by Le Valentin in natural poses. Groups of figures around a table were common in the work of Caravaggio and his northern followers. The allegory of the ages of man was a common subject for paintings during the sixteenth and seventeenth century, though its quantity of ages varied.

The allegory presents humanity in four categories of age – childhood (holding an empty bird trap); youth (playing a lute); adulthood (with a book and victor’s laurel); old age (with coins of wealth and delicate glassware).

The theme had its origin in classical literature: Ovid’s Metamorphoses and Dante’s Inferno acknowledged the stages of human life according to physical growth and decline. Contemporary poems were written on the subject that Le Valentin may have known.

In the 17th century, the painting was owned by Michel Particelli, seigneur d’Emery (1596–1650) in Paris. In the 18th century it was in the Orléans collection at the Palais Royal. During the French Revolution and the dispersal of the collection in 1791, the painting was brought to England where it is today.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Christ Expelling the Merchants from the Temple c. 1626. 192 x 266.5 cm, oil on canvas, State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia. https://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/wcm/connect/8276ab63-4bcc-40e9-83ab-91aa57903031/WOA_IMAGE_1.jpg?MOD=AJPERES&1677c4b2-bad6-47ed-b628-27cda4f71809

Le Valentin painted many half- or three-quarter-length figures of saints, prophets and narrative scenes including this painting. The scene of Christ expelling the moneychangers from the Temple of Jerusalem is told in all four gospels of the New Testament. Le Valentin adapted the method of half-length, full size street figures depicted in dark, precisely lighted spaces and emerging in relief from the shadows from the Caravaggistes.

Gospel readers would recognize that the cleansing of the temple was prophesied in the Old Testament as a  sign of the ushering in of the Messianic Age (Zechariah 14:21). In the synoptic gospels (Matthew, Mark and Luke) the episode appears at the close of Jesus’s public ministry and in John’s gospel at the start (2:13-17). The chronology of the episode in Jesus‘ ministry is generally not considered its most important element.

Le Valentin shows the “whip of cords” held by Christ, a detail mentioned only in John (Jn 2:15). There are overturned tables, a bench, and scattered coins. Le Valentin depicts the gestures, movements and emotions of the characters involved, focused on a wrathful Christ and fear of the unrighteous.

While in Synoptics the point of the episode appears to be the dishonesty of the Temple money changers, in John’s gospel Jesus’s wrath is directed to the Temple institution itself. In John’s Gospel Jesus declares the Temple is to be “My Father’s house.” Though not a term unique to John, he uses it more than any other Gospel writer (27 times).

Derived from Caravaggio are the types of ordinary people, distinct contrasts of light and shade and the natural plasticity of the figures involved in the composition.

The painting entered the Hermitage collection in 1772.

Valentin de Boulogne (French, 1591–1632), Expulsion of the Money Changers from the Temple. Oil on canvas, 195 x 260 cm (76 ¾ x 103 1/8 in.). Palazzo Corsini, Rome.

The painting’s structural asymmetry lends energy to the scene. With Christ’s raised arm, he is a menace to the money changers. Le Valentin, taking inspiration from Caravaggio, unabashedly renders a scene in grand format of violence in the gospels. The painting was rediscovered in Rome in the mid19th century.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Allegory of Rome, 1628, oil on canvas, 330 x 245 cm, Villa Lante – Institutum Romanum Finlandiae Foundation. https://irfrome.org/en/villa-lante-4/architecture/salone-en/

The oil painting called Allegoria d’Italia by Le Valentin was originally called Historia d’Italia. Its massive volumes imbued with inner life are rendered using a brown palette and highlights that retained the Caravaggiste tradition. Le Valentin’s redoubling his commitment to Caravaggio in the late 1620s was on display in this painting as other leading painters, such as Vouet, Poussin, Giovanni Lanfranco (1582-1647) and Pietro da Cortona (1597-1669), were deploying brighter “modern” colors.

In March 1628 Cardinal Barberini gave Le Valentin the commission for the Extraordinary Jubilee of 1628 and paid 113 crowns for it. This major painting which renewed Caravaggio-inspired technique in the late 1620s attracted greater attention to Le Valentin’s artwork not only by Caravaggeschi but the broader Roman art circles.

A young Roman girl wears an emperor’s cuirass, holds a spear and shield, as the personification of Italy. At her feet are the fruit and nuts of the land’s bounty. Below her image are two male figures, naked and bearded, who represent the Tiber and the Arno, Italy’s great rivers. The figure of the Tiber is joined by Romulus and Remus and the suckling wolf who founded Rome and the later Papal States. The Arno that runs through Florence is joined by its symbol of the lion. In the top left corner, a tree stump with a bee swarm symbolizes the Barberini.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Christ and the Adulteress,, 1618-22, oil on canvas, 167 x 221.3 cm, Getty Museum, Los Angeles.  https://museum-essays.getty.edu/paintings/ebeeny-valentin/

The gospel story that Le Valentin depicts using the typical Caravaggiste method (half-length, full size street figures in shadow and light) is from John 8. The story had been painted by the Flemish and the Venetians. The plump young woman in a torn garment exposing her shoulders and full-formed breasts is taken into custody by soldiers in armor to Jesus. According to the law the woman should be publicly stoned for adultery. The Pharisees lay verbal and other traps repeatedly in the gospels for Jesus to say or do something that is expungable. Jesus’s response moves past their premise. Whereas Jesus will soon be arrested, tried, and condemned by the authorities for his “transgressions,” the focus of le Valentin’s artwork is Jesus showing mercy to the sinful woman. From a theological viewpoint, Jesus’s innovative teaching is again based on the appeal to an extant biblical tradition of God’s anger towards, and forgiveness of, harlotry or unfaithfulness when such sin is repented (Hosea 5:4). Jesus tells her: “Go and sin no more” (John 8:11). While the woman’s disheveled look suggests the nature of her sin, she represents humankind and points to Christ, the God-Man and prophesied suffering servant (Isaiah 53). Christ  takes the harlot’s place as the arrested agitator and manhandled by soldiers along the Via Dolorosa. In that episode, Christ goes to the cross to shed his blood in the new covenant whose outcome for “adulterous” humankind is  eternal forgiveness of sins and rising to new life.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Lute Player, c. 1625/26, 128.3 x 99.1 cm The Metropolitian Museum of Art, New York. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/439933

The image of a young soldier singing in armor breastplate a love madrigal is unique in Valentin’s oeuvre. The painting was part of the collection of Cardinal Mazarin, minister to Louis XIV.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632), Return of the Prodigal Son, c. 1615–16, oil on canvas, 59 1/16 × 70 1/16 in. (150 × 178 cm), Museo della Venerabile Arciconfraternita della Misericordia, Florence.

One of Jesus’s most famous parables, The Prodigal Son tells the story of a young man who demanded his “full share of [his father’s] estate that should come to [him],” and departed to waste it “on a life of dissipation” (Luke 15). When the lost son falls on hard times, he seeks his father’s house though “only as a hired servant.” The forgiving father who has been on the look-out for his lost son (dressed in rags) since the day of his departure welcomes him back as a son “who was dead and has come back to life.” Which of the other figures may be the older brother who is unhappy about his dissolute brother’s return is not clear. Le Valentin treats the parable as a human story of repentance, forgiveness, and unconditional love.

Valentin de Boulogne (French (active Rome), 1591-1632), Fortune-Teller with Soldiers, 58 7/8 x 93 7/8 in. (149.5 x 238.4 cm), Toledo Museum of Art.
http://emuseum.toledomuseum.org/objects/54884/fortuneteller-with-soldiers?ctx=99a0dbca-6a24-444e-a66b-95c576c7395c&idx=1

The attribution to Le Valentin and its dating for this artwork is the result of modern scholarship. Art historians can thereby draw conclusions and make conjectures about the development of Le Valentin’s early artwork in Rome -he uses a larger format, growing complexity of compositional qualities and its subject matter, and the retention of low-life characters and stylistic indebtedness to Caravaggio as he moves beyond him.

A dark tavern filled with low-life characters provides the setting for a scene of fortune and deceit. As a gypsy fortuneteller reads the palm of a young soldier he is looking pensively as she speaks his fate, there are carousers and thieves in the scene.  The picture is emblematic of Le Valentin – the techniques of a somber palette and dramatic lighting and tabletop groupings but also a mysterious mood and psychological depth to the complex interplay among its characters.

Valentin de Boulogne (French (active Rome), 1591-1632), Portrait of Roman Prelate, 128 x 94 cm, private collection.

The prelate is dressed in the robes of a papal chamberlain. Modern scholarship has proposed various individuals as the sitter from cardinals to lawyers.

Denial of St. Peter, c. 1623/25, Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow, 119 x 172 cm.
https://collection.pushkinmuseum.art/entity/PERSON/273?query=valentin%20de%20boulogne&index=0
Valentin de Boulogne (French (active Rome), 1591-1632), Abraham Sacrificing Isaac, 1629/32, 149.2 x 186.1 cm The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.
https://www.mbam.qc.ca/en/works/8394/
Valentin de Boulogne (French (active Rome), 1591-1632), Moses, 1625/27. Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, 131 x 103.5 cm. https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/2012/

Moses led the Israelites out the slavery of Egypt into the freedom of the Promised Land during the Exodus. The event is told and retold in the Old Testament and Moses as Liberator and Law Giver is its most significant figure. Le Valentin shows him holding a miraculous rod that he used  to open the Red Sea (Exodus 14), struck the rock to produce water (Numbers 20) and, after its transformation into an iron snake, healed the ill (Numbers 21). Moses points to the stone tablets of the Ten Commandments of God (Exodus 20; Deuteronomy 5). This late work by Valentin is characteristic in its dark and pensive tone that is reminiscent of Caravaggio.

Valentin de Boulogne (1591-1632),Cheerful company with Fortune Teller, 190 × 267cm, oil on canvas, 1631 Vienna Liechtenstein.
https://www.liechtensteincollections.at/en/collections-online/cheerful-company-with-fortune-teller
Detail. Cheerful Company with Fortune Teller. Le Valentin.

The picture is one of Valentin’s last paintings before his death in 1632. Prince Hans Adam Il von und zu Liechtenstein (b. 1945) acquired the work in 2004.  Throughout his painting career, Le Valentin never ceased producing genre paintings.

SOURCES:

A Dictionary of Art and Artists, Peter and Linda Murray, Penguin Books; Revised,1998.

French Paintings of the Fifteenth through the Eighteenth Century, The Collection of the National Gallery of Art Systematic Catalogue, Philip Conisbee and Frances Gage, Washington, D.C., 2009 pp, 413-414.

Art for the Nation, text by Philip Conisbee, National Gallery of Art exhibition catalogue, 2000.

French Painting From Fouquet to Poussin, Albert Chatâlet and Jacques Thuillier, trans. from French by Stuart Gilbert, Skira, 1963.

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/663663

https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2016/valentin-de-boulogne

https://arthistorians.info/bousquet

https://arthistorians.info/hoogewerffg

https://arthistorians.info/longhir

https://www.kulturelles-erbe-koeln.de/documents/obj/05011488/rba_d054126_01

The Saints: A Concise Biographical Dictionary, edited by John Coulson, Guild Press, New York, 1957.

The New American Bible, Catholic Book Publishing Corp, New York, 1993.

Mannerism: The Painting and Style of The Late Renaissance,  Jacques Bousquet, trans, by Simon Watson Taylor, Braziller, 1964.

The Liberation of Jerusalem, Torquato Tasso, trans by Max Wicker, Oxford World’s Classics, 2009.

Valentin de Boulogne: Beyond Caravaggio, Annick Lemoine, Keith Christiansen, Patrizia Cavazzini, Jean Pieere Cuzin, Gianni Pappi, Metropolitan Museum of Art; 2016.

https://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/hauts-de-france/somme/amiens/six-tableaux-de-la-chambre-du-roi-du-chateau-de-versailles-exceptionnellement-exposes-au-musee-de-picardie-2620412.html

https://www.liechtensteincollections.at/en/

Raymond E. Brown, Joseph A. Fitzmyer, S.J,  and Roland E. Murphy, O. Carm.,The Jerome Biblical Commentary, Prentice Hall Englewood Cliffs, NJ, 1968.

Lehmbeck, Leah, editor. Gifts of European Art from The Ahmanson Foundation. Vol. 2, French Painting and Sculpture. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 2019.

Marandel, J. Patrice and Gianni Papi. 2012. Caravaggio and his Legacy. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Fried, Michael. After Caravaggio. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2016.

Schmid, Vanessa I., with Julia Armstrong-Totten. The Orléans Collection. New Orleans: New Orleans Museum of Art; Lewes: In association with D. Giles, 2018.

Merle Du Bourg, Alexis. “L’omniprésence de la musique.” Dossier de L’Art no.246 (2017): 64-67.

My Street Photography: Europe 1970s-2000s (122 Photos).

FEATURE image: July 1984. Marienplatz, Munich, Germany. 7.91mb 91%

Unless otherwise noted, all photographs by John P. Walsh.

Paris 1976. Senior class trip. I’m in the second row third from the right. Photographer unknown. Fair use.

Every year the senior class at Benet Academy went to London during Christmas/winter break. That year the travel agent (“The World is Your Schoolhouse” as I recall) offered a side trip of sorts to Paris. It would be two nights and would replace, not be added onto, the week’s stay in London. The offer was put to a vote to the group in September 1976 and Paris was approved. The first stop was Notre Dame cathedral and I can still remember my reaction – my jaw dropped in awe of walking inside my first Gothic cathedral. Chaperoned by two English teachers and their wives, the rules were, you could party all night long if you like, but you had to be at breakfast to do the tours each morning. We visited the Louvre, Jeu de Paume, Eiffel Tower, the exterior of a soon-to-opened Pompidou Center, the Arc de Triomphe, Sacré-Cœur, and scoured some of the oldest streets in Paris in the Latin Quarter in search of its vibrant street life, medieval and other architecture, and student canteens. It certainly whetted my appetite for future trips. In the morning we took a charter bus to Calais and ferried across the English Channel to Dover in England. We stopped in Canterbury arriving in later afternoon on December 28, the day before St. Thomas Becket’s feast day marking his being martyred in Canterbury cathedral in 1170 — a major pilgrimage center since the 12th century — and then onwards to London arriving by nightfall.

Paris in 1976 Archive Footage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QASTAUjaUOw – retrieved November 6, 2024
London, South Bank, December 1976. I’m in there somewhere walking briskly. Photographer unknown. Fair use.

In London what was most remarkable for me was all the theatre we decided to see including A Chorus Line, Equus, Jesus Christ Superstar, and Tom Stoppard’s new production of Jumpers. A group of us did a medieval feast in a London hotel as well as an East End Indian restaurant. We also visited Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London, the changing of the Horse Guard at Buckingham Palace, and shopping at Herrod’s and Selfridge’s on Oxford Street. Some of us made speeches at Speakers’ Corner in Hyde Park. Out of this trip I learned the following about affording international (or any) travel in one’s busy life: it should be (1) a relatively short amount of time, (2) off season if possible, (3) well prepared and to the same destination possibly (“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford” – Samuel Johnson), and (4) that I work on the airplane outbound and return.

December 1976. Houses of Parliament, London.
A tour of London, England 1976.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9Un1T92I84 – retrieved November 6, 2024
August 1978. Knappogue Castle, County Clare, Ireland. The castle tower was built in 1467. Author with Irish singer. 1.05mb

In 1978 I was in England, Wales and Ireland for 3 weeks with my family on an American Express tour. More theatre in London (saw Paul Scofield; Robert Morley), the British Museum, Westminster Abbey, Hampton Court, the Tube, etc.. We visited Warwick Castle, Bath, Oxford, Bristol, Coventry, Stratford-Upon-Avon, Salisbury, Chester, Liverpool, Llanfairpwllgwyngyll (longest name in Wales) and Holyhead, and other places. We crossed the Irish Sea by ferry to Dún Laoghaire in Dublin, Ireland, and onward to Jurys Hotel in Ballsbridge where we stayed for several days. We traveled south to Glendalough, New Ross (the Kennedy family homestead), Wexford, Waterford, Cork, the Blarney Stone, Killarney, the Ring of Kerry, Dingle peninsula (beach locations for Ryan’s Daughter), the Cliffs of Moher, Cong and surroundings (The Quiet Man locations), Limerick, and elsewhere.

June 1979. I was studying medieval Irish history at Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland.

Opened in 1967, the Berkeley Library building is at Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603), in the heart of Dublin, Ireland. The library building is an example of modern Brutalist architecture — exposed unpainted concrete, monochrome palette, steel, timber, and glass – a style that emerged in the United Kingdom in the 1950s as an alternative to nostalgic architecture. The library was named for George Berkeley (1685-1753), an 18th century scholar whose philosophical and scientific ideas on perception and reality presage the work of Albert Einstein (1879-1955). In 2023 Berkeley’s name was removed from the library by Trinity’s governing board because Berkeley had been a slave owner who actively defended slavery. Berkeley had been a Trinity fellow and, apt for the library building. its former librarian. George Berkeley is also the namesake of the University of California, Berkeley, and Berkeley College at Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut. – see https://www.insidehighered.com/news/quick-takes/2023/05/09/berkeley-name-dropped-trinity-college-library – retrieved October 5, 2023. In 1979 I was researching Irish History (13th to 16th centuries) at Trinity College and utilized the Berkeley and Old Library begun in 1712 as well as the National Library of Ireland (1877) around the corner on Kildare Street.

June 1979. The round tower at Glendalough in Wicklow County is a monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin (C. 498-618).

The tower served several functions –  as bell tower, look out (note two of its four compass-point windows), marker for visitors, store house, and refuge during attack. The tower is nearly 100 feet tall with an entrance at about 5 feet off the ground. Made of mica-slate and granite, the tower once had 6 timber floors and its four stories were connected by a network of ladders and windows. The conical rooftop was rebuilt in 1876 using its original stones. In 1978 I had visited the monastic settlement in some ease and comfort with my family. The following year was a different experience entirely. My room-mate and I hitch hiked from Sandymount in Dublin to Enniskerry, slept outside near Powerscourt, and then walked much of the rest of the way into the wilderness of Sugar Loaf Mountain on the Old Military Road built by the British during Wolfe Tone’s rebellion in 1798. Alone with the sheep among the peat bogs (the source of the Liffey is here), we finally got another ride that whisked us to Laragh. We stopped at Patsy’s tea and scones and then to the hostel at the monastic settlement. After a beautiful first day, it started to rain in the evening, and the next day. We took the bus back to Dublin, and having showered and changed into fresh clothes at the chalets, we strolled with two more friends to Sandymount House on a busy Sunday night and settled back for talk and a couple of unforgettable Guinness pours.

June 1979. At our arrival, we hiked the hills above the monastic settlement of Glendalough.
June 1979. St. Kevin’s Church, Glendalough. Kevin lived in the 6th century and is sort of a St. Francis of Assisi figure. Like the Italian 13th century St. Francis, Irish Kevin dressed in rough clothing, slept on stones, and ate very sparingly. Kevin went barefoot and spent his time in prayer. Also, like Francis, Kevin shared an extraordinary closeness to nature so that his regular companions were the animals and birds around him. St. Kevin of Glendalough was canonized in 1903 by Pope Saint Pius X. 40%
“St. Kevin and the Blackbird” by Seamus Heaney (1939-2013) is a poem about doing the right thing for the reward of doing it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKGmQcSFbMc – retrieved November 7, 2024. For text see – https://poetryarchive.org/poem/st-kevin-and-blackbird/ – retrieved November 7, 2024.
June 1979. O’Donoghue’s is a popular pub since the 1930s closely associated with Irish traditional music. It is where the Irish folk group, The Dubliners, got their start in the 1960s.
June 1979. O’Donoghue’s, 15 Merrion Row, Dublin, Ireland.
June 1979. at O’Donoghue’s. 35%.
The Furey Brothers played at O’Donoghue’s Bar in the late 1970’s. “The Shipyard Slips” was written by David Wilde as a member of the Irish folk group, Men Of No Property, who recorded the song using the title ”The Island Men.” In 1977 it was covered by The Furey Brothers and Davey Arthur on this album, Morning On A Distant Shore, where in 1979 the single climbed to no. 26 in Ireland. see – https://www.irish-folk-songs.com/the-shipyard-slips-lyrics-chords-and-sheet-music.html and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fureys_discography – retrieved November 6, 2024.
June 1979. Lunchtime concert in St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin. In the first part of the nineteenth century the Green was for gentry only. An iron gate put around it in 1815 had a lock and key for local residents. No working class or poor Irish were allowed in. Access to the Green was restricted until 1877 when, at the initiative of Lord Ardilaun (Arthur Guinness, 1840-1915), Parliament passed legislation that opened St Stephen’s Green to the public. He also funded the layout of the Green in its current form in 1880. People who gathered almost a century later, in 1979, included a crosssection of Dublin life – university students, professionals, trademen, families, and visitors. 50%.
What is filmed on July 3, 1975 was very much like what was happening in the same place in 1979. The area surrounding the bandstand proved particularly popular with the park goers. Sunny St Stephen’s Green, Ireland 1975. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbFU6ogKdB8 – retrieved November 7, 2024.
June 1979. U.S .Embassy, Dublin. 50% Known officially as the Chancery Building  at 42 Elgin Road, the U.S. Embassy is one of the most prestigious addresses and modernist buildings in Dublin. It opened in May 1964 in a triangle of land between Elgin and Pembroke Roads in Ballsbridge. I walked past it every day in summer 1979 on the way from Sandymount to Trinity College and the National Library mainly. Designed by Harvard professor John M. Johansen (1916-2012) and Irish architect Michael Scott (1905-1989) it was, in its circular shape, an homage to ancient Celtic monuments, most notably Newgrange, as well as round stone forts and Martello towers. Its design also invoked the original stars and stripes flag with its 13 stars representing 13 states. By 2024 the U.S. Embassy had erected tall gates around its perimeter and bought the old Jurys Hotel site to begin constructing a new and larger embassy after 60 years.
July 1979. Galway City. On the Salmon Weir Bridge over the River Corrib.
July 1979. Dancing and music as passengers traveled on the Galway Bay ferry to the Aran Islands.
July 1979. Ferry from Galway to the Aran Islands.
July 1979. Outbound Galway Bay.
July 1979. Inishmore is the largest of the three Aran Islands in Galway Bay, off the west coast of Ireland. It is 12 square miles with a population of under 1000 locals. The island is one of the official government districts of Gaeltacht in Ireland’s west where the Irish language is the predominant language of the home. The photo depicts the island’s typical rocky landscape. Towards the close of a long day of touring, I went into a busy pub filled with locals to have a Guinness. I was served but had to wait a long time to catch the bartender’s eye. 50%
Dun AENGUS (Aran Islands,Inish Mor,Ireland) drone video 4K
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpTo3PM-Fs8 – retrieved November 5, 2024.
July 1979. Prehistoric hill fort of Dun Aengus on Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands off Galway, Ireland. About half of the circle fort has fallen into the Atlantic Ocean 330 feet below. Excavations show that the fort goes back to at least 1100 B.C.
June 1979. Postal strike parade, Dublin, Ireland. The strike by the Irish Post Office Workers Union began on February 19, 1979 and ended 18 weeks later. Strikers stopped delivery of mail so that during the strike I could neither send nor receive correspondence from family and friends in the U.S. Sometimes I gave mail to American friends in Ireland returning to the U.S. to post my mail there when they got back, which they did. Nevertheless, I could not receive mail coming the other way. When the strike ended in late June, workers received an average raise of £10. Although deliveries resumed on June 18, first-class mail was backlogged for months. After the strike, first-class mail was not accepted until July 9, and packages not until July 18. see – https://eirephilatelicassoc.org/abcs-of-philately/postal-strike-1979-167/; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/it-was-the-most-bitter-confrontation-in-the-history-of-the-state-1.796511 – retrieved January 8, 2025.
August 1985. Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland. It is in the canyon of the Hvítá river in southwest Iceland.
October 2002. Anne Fontaine, Paris (3rd arr.). 204 kb 65%
October 2002. Au Petit Tonneau, 20, rue Surcouf, Paris (7th arr.). 65%
October 2002. Paris.
October 2022. Paris. 400kb 75%
June 1985. Tapas. Madrid, Spain.
September 1993. Cathédrale Saint-Lazare d’Autun (1120). Statue St. Bernadette Soubirous (1844-1879). Autun, France. 1.15 mb
October 2002.  La Pagode, 57 bis rue de Babylone and rue Monsieur, Paris, 7th arr., France. 65%

In 1895 M. Morin, an executive at Le Bon Marché, looked to give his wife a gift. Since the 1860s, Japanese art and its influences and practices (known as “japonisme”) had a profound impact on France’s own fine and popular arts, and this craze became even more popular by the 1890s. It was only natural for M. Morin to build a real pagoda as a lavish and fashionable statement next door to the couple’s house in Paris. Pieces were shipped from Asia and reassembled in Paris under the design and direction of Alexandre Marcel (1860-1928) at 57 bis, rue de Babylone on the corner with rue Monsieur in the 7th arrondissement. Built in the middle of a residential neighborhood it boasted all things Japanese including stone figures of dragons, lions, buddhas and birds as well as distinctive Asian-style rooflines. In 1930 it became a 400-seat cinema movie theatre that became an art-house cinema in the 1970s and, after 85 years of operation, closed its doors in 2015. SOURCE: 1000 Buildings of Paris, Kathy Borrus, Black Dog & Leventhal Publishers, New York, 2003, p. 275 and http://cinematreasures.org/theaters/6906 – retrieved January 4, 2023.

June 1984. Eiffel Tower, Paris, 7th arr., France. 15%
June 1984. Lucerne, Switzerland. 6.12mb 99% (10)
March 2002. Château de Versailles, Versailles, France. 140kb 65%
March 1992. Katschhof, Aachen, Germany 7.77mb 74%

A fruit and vegetable market on the Katschhof square (above) in Aachen, Germany, in March 1992 was held the day before Ash Wednesday. The historic square has Aachen Cathedral on one side and the town hall on the other side and is brought to life during its numerous festivals, markets, and events. In Carolingian history, the Katschhof represented the connection between Charlemagne’s palace hall and his St. Mary’s Church with his throne and tomb. In 2014 it was announced by a team of scientists who started to study the tomb’s bones and bone fragments in 1988 that if they are those of Charlemagne (747-814), the 66-year-old Holy Roman Emperor was tall and thin. See- https://www.archaeology.org/news/1782-140131-charlemagne-bones-sarcophagus – retrieved October 6, 2023.

March 2002. The Louvre (Statue of Winged Victory, c. 200 BCE), Paris. France. 660kb.
June 1984. Vienna, Austria. 15%
July 1984. Dachau Concentration Camp, Upper Bavaria, Southern Germany. 316 kb
July 1984. Dachau Concentration Camp. Sculpture memorial to Dachau prisoners from 1933 to 1945 by Yugoslav artist Nandor Glid (1924-1997). Glid was a Holocaust survivor who had been a forced laborer and whose father and most of his family were murdered in Auschwitz.
Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Small-Group Tour
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqVDvg-hZ0A – retrieved November 4, 2024.
July 1984. Neuschwanstein Castle (1869-1886), Hohenschwangau, Germany. 62% 7.85 mb
Neuschwanstein Castle in 4K
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80GKRBXMqGo – retrieved November 4, 2024.
February 1992. Wijde Heisteeg & Singel, Amsterdam, the Netherlands. 22%
February 1992. Tournai, Belgium. Dating from the late 1100s, These houses in Belgium are among the oldest surviving domiciles in Europe. 7.94mb 87%
February 1992. World War I trenches at Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial have not been altered since 1919. This was the site of fierce fighting on July 1, 1916. The Royal Newfoundland Regiment experienced the battle’s worst. From the neighboring vilage of Beaumont, a battalion and a division of Scottish soldiers joined the combat. By the end of the day 90% of these men were dead.
Beaumont Hamel – Newfoundlanders on the Somme (Pt. 1 of 2)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_mY_-3sf3k – retrieved November 6, 2024.
February 1992. Beaumont-Hamel. Reconstructed trenches.
February 1992. Rubens House, 1610. Antwerp, Belgium 7.39mb 99% (20)

A 10-minute walk from the city center, the Rubens House (Rubenshuis in Dutch) is an older Flemish house transformed into an Italian palazzo by the artist, Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) in 1610. Married that year to his first wife Isabella Brandt (1591-1626), Rubens purchased and renovated the house on today’s Wapper street whose layout included the couple’s home, the artist’s studio, a monumental portico and interior courtyard (pictured above). The courtyard also opens into the Baroque garden designed by Rubens. Isabella and Peter Paul Rubens had three children together when Isabella died of the plague at 34 years old. Centuries later, in 1937, Antwerp bought the house and opened it to the public in 1946.

May 2005. The Château de Maintenon in France was built between the 13 and 18th centuries. The square keep was built in the 13th century. The round towers were built later. In the early 16th century it was purchased by Jean Cottereau, the treasurer of Louis XII (1462-1515) and rebuilt by Madame de Maintenon (1635-1719), the mistress and then second spouse of Louis XIV, who purchased it in 1674. “Madame de Maintenon knows how to love,” the king said, “There would be great pleasure in being loved by her.” The château’s wings frame a cour d’honneur, beyond which is a moat filled by waters of the Eure. Beyond is the parterre and park. At the far end of the gardens is an aqueduct crossing the Canal de l’Eure. No official document exists of what was the secret marriage of King Louis XIV and his mistress, but historians accept that it occurred sometime between October 1683 and January 1684. Later, the château was a favorite place of writer François-René de Chateaubriand (1768-1848) who enjoyed its special ambiance.
July 1984. Munich Germany. Marienplatz.
March 2002. Paris Square d’Estienne d’Orves. (9th arr.) 404 kb 65%
June 1984. “Tresors de l’ancien Nigéria,” Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, May 16 – July 23, 1984. Paris. 15%
June 1984. Grand’ Place, Brussels, Belgium. Buildings in the photograph include Le Roy d’Espagne, La Brouette, Le Sac, La Louve, Le Cornet and Le Renard. The construction of the Grand’ Place took place over 600 years from the 1000’s to the 1600’s. In 1695, during the Nine Years’ War (1688-1697), most of the square was destroyed during the bombardment of Brussels by French troops. The buildings were rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries giving the square its appearance today. In 1998 the Grand’ Place was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the world’s most beautiful squares. 1.03mb
June 1984. Hotel Ambassador, Kärntner Straße 22, Neuer Markt 5, Wien (Vienna).
January 1993. Red Square, Moscow, Russia.
January 1993. View of upper hall of Belorusskaya (Belarus) Metro Station (Koltsevaya Line) (Moscow, Russia). Below the ceiling’s molding in a passageway is a statue of Belarussian partisans during World War II who opposed Nazi Germany from 1941 until 1944. In their military and political resistance, the partisans took direction from Moscow. 1/1993 35%
January 1993. Lenin’s Tomb, Moscow, Russia. It is the mausoleum for Soviet leader Vladimir Lenin (1870-1924) whose preserved body has been on public display since shortly after his death in January 1924. Just days after Lenin’s death, Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev (1873-1949) was given the task to build a structure suitable for viewing the body by mourners. In 1930, a new mausoleum was designed by Shchusev and is the structure seen today made of marble, porphyry, granite, and labradorite. From 1953 to 1961 the embalmed body of Joseph Stalin (1878-1953) was in this mausoleum next to Lenin but removed by Nikita Khrushchev (1894-1971) and buried in the nearby Kremlin Wall national cemetery. While incorporating elements of various ancient world mausoleums, the tomb’s architectural style is an experiment in early 20th century Constructivism. 35%
January 1993. GUM department store, Moscow, Russia. GUM is the main department store in cities of the former Soviet Union and during the Soviet period (until 1991) was known as the State Department Store with one vendor – the State. The most famous GUM is this store facing Red Square. Built in 1890-93 by architect Alexander Pomerantsev (1849-1918) and engineer Vladimir Shukhov (1853-1939) as the Upper Trading Rows, by the time of the Russian Revolution of 1917, the building contained some 1,200 stores. The trapezoid-shaped building with a steel framework and glass roof is Moscow’s Crystal Palace (London,1851) and, in turn, influenced parts of La Samaritaine department store (Paris, 1907). The site of GUM had been a designed trade area since the time of Catherine II of Russia (1729-1796) though its early structures by Italian architect Giacomo Quarenghi (1744-1817) were destroyed in the 1812 Fire of Moscow which accompanied Napoleon’s invasion. After the Revolution of 1917, GUM was nationalized but closed in 1928 and converted to office space by Stalin. It did not reopen as a consumer goods store until after 1953. 50%.
January 1993. Novoslobodskaya station (Ring Line), Moscow, Russia. The station with its 32 stained glass panel decorations opened on January 30, 1952. It is on the Koltsevaya Line, between Belorusskaya and Prospekt Mira stations. Though the man in the middle is an American tourist, the others are Russians. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, there was a fire sale on its effects, including old uniforms. 55% (30)
January 1993. Red Square, Moscow, Russia. Left to right: State Historical Museum. GUM store. 50%
January 1993. Saint Basil’s Cathedral (1555-1561), Red Square, Moscow, Russia. The Orthodox church was constructed by order of Ivan the Terrible (1530-1584).
January 1993. Church on the Spilled Blood (1883-1907), Saint Petersburg, Russia. The Church of the Resurrection of Jesus Christ in Saint Petersburg, Russia, stands on the site where Czar Alexander II (1818-1881) was assassinated in March 1881. The Russian Revival building was built between 1883 and 1907 by the Romanov Imperial family as a memorial to the slain czar. Though Alexander II freed the serfs in 1861 and abolished capital punishment, his government remained autocratic and repressed liberalizing political forces. Starting in 1879 the czar became the focus for a number of attacks when he was finally murdered in March 1881. That day Alexander II was riding close to the Griboyedov canal when a bomb was tossed beneath his carriage. One of the czar’s Cossack guards was killed and several others injured but the czar emerged unharmed. Immediately, a second, suicide bomber, Ignatiy Grinevitsky, threw a bomb at close range that landed at the czar’s feet and exploded. Mortally wounded, Alexander II was whisked to the Winter Palace (today’s Hermitage) about a mile away where he bled to death. The terrorist group called The People’s Will (“Narodnaya Volya”) claimed responsibility for the elaborate attack. They were a group of radicals and reformers seeking liberty and land reforms from the autocratic regime. Though Alexander II had signed an order creating a Duma, or parliament, his son and successor, Alexander III (1845-1894) withdrew it and began to suppress anew civil liberties using the Okhrana or Imperial Russian secret police. The church is a building rich in decoration and one of St. Petersburg’s best known landmarks. 50% see – See – http://www.saint-petersburg.com/rivers-and-canals/griboedov-canal/ – retrieved January 18, 2024.
January 1993. Detsky Mir, Lubyanka Square, Moscow, Russia. On Lubyanka Square in central Moscow is “Detsky Mir” (“Children’s World”), Russia’s largest toy and children’s goods store. It took architect Alexey Nikolayevich Dushkin (1904-1977), Moscow Metro and railways architect, three years to build Detsky Mir in its eclectic mix of post-Stalin Soviet-era architectural styles. The children’s wonderland opened on June 6, 1957. Its neighbor was, curiously, a massive KGB headquarters that had its 15-ton monument to its Bolshevik revolutionary founder, Felix Dzerzhinsky (1877-1926), in the middle of the square. Dzerzhinsky was one of the architects of the Red Terror and de-Cossackization. In January 1993 the statue, sculpted in 1958 by Yevgeny Vuchetich (1908-1974), had been torn down leaving an empty pedestal. Today the pedestal, too, is gone. Detsky Mir was the first building in the Soviet Union to install escalators and in 2015, after nearly a decade-long reconstruction, reopened its doors as Russia’s central children’s store. 60% see – https://www.rbth.com/history/335795-soviet-children-store-detsky-mir
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/2273462.stm
January 1993. Bolshoi Theatre (1825), Moscow, Russia. The Bolshoi (“Big”) Theatre opened on January 18, 1825. The main building of the theatre, rebuilt and renovated several times during its history, is a landmark of Moscow and Russia. It was originally designed by architect Joseph Bové (1784-1834) who supervised the Moscow reconstruction after the Fire of 1812 during the Napoleonic Wars. When Czar Alexander I (1777-1825) visited the city he decreed that Moscow buildings should be only in pale, limited colors, of which the Bolshoi Theatre building is one. The chariot drawn by four horses (“quadriga”) atop the portico pediment was sculpted by Russian sculptor Peter Clodt von Jürgensburg (1805-1867). Tchaikovsky’s ballet Swan Lake premiered at the Bolshoi in March 1877. The Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera in Moscow, Russia,is one of the oldest and most famous such theatre companies in the world. 50%
May 2005. Deb and me at Château de Chenonceau in France. The chateau was famously occupied by Diane de Poitiers (1500-1566), the mistress of the King of France, Henry II (1519-1559), who gifted it to the legendary beauty. Diane de Poitiers is the one who commissioned the bridge to be built across the river and planted its gardens. When the king was suddenly killed in a ceremonial jousting match, Queen Catherine de’ Medici (1519-1589) who married Henry II in 1533 and would have three sons become of King of France in succession over the next 30 years, quickly took over Chenonceau and expelled Diane.
Diane de Poitiers at 25 years old by Jean Clouet (1480-1541).
May 2005. Château de Chenonceau (16th century), France. The château was built in 1514–1522 on the foundations of an old mill and was extended over the river Cher in stages – first, its bridge (1556-59) and then its gallery (1570-76). These were designed, respectively, by architects Philibert de l’Orme (1514-1570) and Jean Bullant (1515-1578). 845 kb.
May 2005. Château de Chenonceau (16th century), France.
May 2005. Musee d’Orsay, Paris. Going in to see Le néo-impressionnisme, de Seurat à Paul Klee, from March 15 to July 10, 2005. The large show made clear to me that there may be many disciples – here, painters of trendy 1890’s Pointillism – but few masters. 65%
May 2005. Pontlevoy Abbey is a former Benedictine abbey founded in the 11th century by a local knight in the town of Pontlevoy in the Loire Valley. The Gothic church was built at this time. In the early 17th century Cardinal Richelieu (1585-1642) was named abbot. It was no honorary title for his “Red Eminence.” In the 1640’s Richelieu had the buildings updated and repaired and re-enforced the monks’ numbers. By the 1770s, a small monastery community was running a school when King Louis XVI (1754-1793) ascended the throne. The king made the school one of France’s royal military academies which lasted until the French Revolution. The huge cedar was planted in 1776 to honor the new King Louis XVI. 65%
May 2005. Debbie at Château de Versailles. Courtyard. 65%
May 2005. Interior, St. Pierre Gothic Church, Pontlevoy, France. The church is over 1000 years old. 65%
May 2005. Château de Versailles. Parterre du Midi. (40)
July 1984. Florence, Italy. Michelangelo’s David, created in c. 1501-1504, has been in the Galleria dell’Accademia since 1873, The biblical figure of David came to symbolize the defense of civil liberties embodied in the 1494 constitution of the Republic of Florence, an independent city-state threatened on all sides by more powerful rival states and by the political aspirations of the Medici family.
July 1984. Pazzi Chapel, Florence, Italy. Andrea Pazzi, whose fortune was second only to the Medici, put together the money to build this chapel in 1429. Filippo Brunelleschi (1377-1446) is believed to be responsible for its geometrical design and whose construction began in 1442. It was completed in 1478. The Pazzi Chapel is considered to be an early Renaissance masterpiece built in the cloister on the south side of the new Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce which was consecrated in 1443. This was one of the first places I came to visit when I arrived in Florence but it was closed for repairs and this is as close as I could get.
Pazzi Chapel outside Church of Santa Croce—Florence, Italy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmCaVAKlB2Y – retrieved November 6, 2024.
July 1984. Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy, is the one bridge to have been spared destruction in World War II. A bridge has crossed the Arno at this point since Ancient Roman times. 43%
July 1984. In Assisi, Italy, traveling with my Canadian friends.
July 1985. The bridge above Nicosia, Sicily was built by Arabs 1000 years ago during the Emirate of Sicily, an Islamic Kingdom, that ruled on the island of Sicily between 831 and 1091. I am with my cousin Filippo. I traced my genealogy on my mother’s mother’s side going back in Italy in a direct unbroken line into the 16th century.
July 1985. Torino (Turin), Italy.
July 1985. Torino, Italy, visiting with family. My cousin Filippo in the middle was an engineer who was acting president of the Politecnico di Torino at that time.
September 1993. Gislebertus (active 1120-1135), Autun, France. The artist carried out the decoration of Autun cathedral including these capitals. The three kings sleep under their counterpane touched by an angel’s single finger. When the artist’s decoration of the cathedral of Autun was completed around 1135 church architecture was beginning its transition to the Gothic, a style that would mark the glory of medieval French architecture (including Notre Dame de Paris in 1163) for the next 250 years. 1.44mb
September 1993. Vézelay, France. It took 24 years for me to get here. I learned about this Burgundian hilltown’s famous Romanesque Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine built in 1120 from Kenneth Clark’s Civilisation book and TV series in 1969. I wanted to visit here in 1985 as a sidetrip from Dijon where I was staying, but it was not direct. Finally, in 1993, we rented a car and drove here staying at this relais. One afternoon we had a special dining experience at restaurant L’Espérance in the nearby Vézelay countryside. Within the restaurant’s easy formal ambiance, graceful and precise service and supra-creative food courses, I learned what it means to dine in a 3-star Michelin restaurant — able to order, have prepared and served, appreciate and eat a culinary work of art — and why Marc Meneau (1943-2020), who oversaw it all and graciously received our thanks and congratulations afterwards, was one of the world’s great chefs.
September 1993. Vézelay Abbey church, Vézelay, France. Statue of St Bernard of Clairvaux (1090-1153) preaching the Second Crusade at Easter, March 31, 1146, in front of French King Louis VII (1120-1180) and his young wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine (c.1126-1204). Bernard’s sermon did not survive, but a contemporary account described his voice as “{ringing) out across the meadow like a celestial organ” such that when he finished a large crowd enlisted en masse for what would be a disastrous string of defeats for Christendom in the East. St. Bernard is an important saint. As a young man from a wealthy family, he was intelligent, high strung, and good looking. When he chose to be a monk it was somewhat unusual though perhaps less so if he chose one of the established and wealthy monasteries. Instead, a passionate and headstrong Bernard chose a new (1098) and absolutely poor one called Cîteaux which frankly horrified his family. Like St. Francis of Assisi a century later in Italy, the monks wanted to live the gospel more literally, in this case, via St. Benedict’s rule but their enthusiasm was not met by new recruits. In 1113 Bernard’s charismatic personality famously attracted 30 of Burgundy’s finest young men into the new monastery of Cîteaux and, virtually overnight, prospered this religious house and its life there. “[Bernard’s] first and greatest miracle was himself,” wrote historian Christopher Holdsworth in 2012. Cîteaux’s co-founder, English Saint Stephen Harding (1050-1134) was abbot at Bernard’s arrival. With Harding’s blessing, the new monks set out to found other communities based on Bernard’s example on behalf of Benedictine tradition, which started a fashion among young men so that the 12th century is called “the Cistercian century.” Bernard with 12 companions set out and founded his monastery, Clairvaux – the “Valley of Light.” This work was not easy and there was every privation to endure but if Bernard fell ill from his efforts he grew in wisdom as an abbot and became sought out on his day’s issues of church and state. Bernard naturally held strong views and did not hold back in expressing them. His wit could be devastating. Bernard was an ardent advocate of the Hildebrand reforms. These were church reforms spearheaded by Pope Gregory VII (formerly Cardinal Hildebrand) that focused on combating simony (buying and selling of church offices), enforcing clerical celibacy, and challenging those secular bureaucrats who would appoint church officials (so-called lay investiture). Bernard particularly supported reforms aimed to purify the clergy, enhance their private and public moral standing, and strengthen the Church’s independence from control of any secular kingdoms. The unity of medieval Christendom was hardly without its problems – the 12th century was rife with schism at every level of elite society from popes to kings to princes and bishops, including a papal schism. It was only in 1139 at the Second Council of the Lateran in which Bernard assisted that adherents of the anti-pope were definitively condemned. Bernard also bumped heads with the wealthy and influential monks of Cluny, though he was friends with its abbot and dismissed Peter Abelard as an intellectual bumpkin playing to the marketplace. In 1142 the pope imposed the duty on Bernard to preach the Second Crusade which boomeranged back to stain Bernard’s reputation in his last years. He died on August 20, 1153 which became his feast day, was canonized in 1174, and named a “Doctor of the Church” in 1830. Following Bernard’s death, in 1166, exiled archbishop of Canterbury Thomas Becket (1118-1170) chose Vézelay for his Whitsunday sermon where he threatened the English King Henry II with excommunication as he excommunicated the king’s main supporters while, in 1190 at Vézelay, Richard the Lionheart of England (1157-1199) and King Philippe Auguste (1165-1223) of France met and spent three months at the abbey before setting out on the Third Crusade. Scan_20220520 (61) (1) (1)
Yonne : le célèbre chef triplement étoilé Marc Meneau est mort
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uT07LxKhhiA – retrieved November 5, 2024.
July 1984. The Forum, Rome. It was a very hot day. The three columns are ruins in the distance are from the Temple of the Dioscuri who are the mythological twin sons (“Gemini”) of Jupiter (Zeus) and Leda. The cult came to Rome from Greece via Sicily where Greek culture was foundational. Statues at the House of the Vestals.
July 1984. St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City, Rome, Italy.
July 1984. Trying on eyewear at a sidewalk vendor, Rome, Italy.
July 1984. Colosseum from Via Sacra with columns and wall of the Temple of Venus and Roma. The Temple was erected in 121 under Emperor Hadrian (76-138) and inaugurated by him in 135. The building was finished in 141 by Emperor Antoninus Pius (86-161). The Colosseum held between 50,000 and 85,000 spectators. Its construction began in 72 under Emperor Vespasian (9-79) and was completed in 80 A.D. under Emperor Titus (39–81).
May 1983. Colosseum, Rome.
May 1983. Trevi Fountain, Rome.
“The tradition is that you throw ONE coin over your shoulder if you wanna come back to Italy, TWO coins for romance, or THREE coins if you want to get married…” https://www.youtube.com/shorts/31p153LmFCI – retrieved November 7, 2024.
Filmed in De Luxe color and Cinemascope, Sol Siegel’s “Three Coins in A Fountain” in 1954 from 20th Century-Fox follows three American women who find romance in Rome. Shot on location in Italy, the film won Academy Awards for Best Cinematography (Milton Krasner) and Best Song (Jule Styne and Sammy Cahn) and, though a thin story, was an enormous box office entertainment. Nominated for Best Picture, the rom-com starred Dorothy McGuire, Maggie McNamara, Jean Peters, Rossano Brazzi, Louis Jourdan and Clifton Webb and, reviewed by Variety, was called a film that “has warmth, humor, a rich dose of romance and almost incredible pictorial appeal.” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87kbwiLSDDU – retrieved November 7, 2024.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Gp8nchMn4YA – retrieved November 7, 2024.
September 1993. German tourists. Cluny Abbey, Cluny, Saône-et-Loire. A highly influential Benedictine abbey started in 910 in Cluny, its third and final church was started in 1088 by abbot Hugh of Semur (1024–1109). It became the largest church building in Europe and remained so until the 16th century, when the new St. Peter’s Basilica was built in Rome. Hézelon de Liège was Cluny’s architect. 1.43mb
September 1993. Château de Bussy-Rabutin is in the commune of Bussy-le-Grand, in the Côte-d’Or department, Bourgogne, about 37 miles (one hour by car) northwest of Dijon. The castle was founded in the 12th century by Renaudin de Bussy and rebuilt in the 14th century, The Renaissance galleries were added in the 1520s. It was again altered during the reigns of Henri II (1547–1559) and Louis XIII (1610–1643). Roger de Rabutin, Comte de Bussy (1618–1693) fell into disgrace at court and was ordered by Louis XIV to self-exile at this estate. Here Bussy-Rabutin wrote his Histoire amoureuse des Gaules, an account of  various love affairs at court, which embroiled the author in more scandal. He was sent to the Bastille and released on condition that he return to self-exile and live there in silence which he did for the next 17 years. Bussy -Rabutin died at the chateau in 1693. His collection of portraits of historical and contemporary French figures are a highlight of a tour of the chateau as they serve to fuel the various stories he told. The chateau was restored in the 19th century and acquired by the French state in 1929.
September 1993. Palais Jacques Coeur (completed 1453), Bourges, France.
June 1984. Fontaine des Mers, Place de la Concorde, Paris. Two monumental fountains in this largest square in Paris were designed by Jacques Ignace Hittorff (1792-1867) and completed in 1840.
Fontaine des Mers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mFXE5w2bZw
May 2005. Medici Fountain (1630), Luxembourg Gardens, Paris, France. Along with a Left Bank palace built for Marie de’ Medici (1575-1642) by French architect Salomon de Brosse (1571-1626) between 1623 and 1630, the fountain and grotto was also made at this time. It was likely the work of Tommaso Francini (1571-1651), a water works engineeer from Italy who emigrated to France in 1598 by invitation of Henry IV (1553-1610), the eventual husband (in 1600) of Marie de’ Medici. By the 19th century the fountain had had a series of owners and fell into disrepair hastened by the relocation of the court to Versailles and changing tastes as well as the eventual upheaval of the French Revolution. Attention began to paid to it again under Napoleon I (1769-1826) who had the grotto restored. By the mid 1850s the old orangerie behind the fountain was demolished as were its adjoining arcades. When Baron Haussmann (1809-1891) looked to put in Rue de Medicis in 1864 the fountain was moved about 90 feet further into the park. Its simple basin and water spout was replaced with an elongated basin and, in 1866, a sculpture of a giant Polyphemus surprising lovers Acis and Galatea by Auguste Ottin (1811-1890) was added to the fountain. A different fountain, the Fontaine de Léda, built in 1806 under Napoleon and relocated from another neighborhood, was placed directly behind the Medici Fountain that created mutually supporting walls of stone. 2.49 mb
March 2002. Pont Marie (1635), Paris, France. Looking from the Île Saint-Louis to the Right Bank. It was the first bridge built after the aristocracy clamored for development of the island to expand their neighborhood in the early 17th century. The stone bridge is one of the oldest in Paris. The Pont-de-la-Tournelle which continued the Pont-Marie was completed in 1654 and connected the Île Saint-Louis to the Left Bank. Houses used to be built on the bridge. The structure is substantially the same since the 18th century. Each of the pedimented arches of the Pont Marie is unique with niches in abutments that have always stood empty.
June 1985. Beaune, France. The man in the middle told me he had been a French soldier in combat in World War I (1914-1918). (50)
February 1992. Me in Prüm, Westeifel in far western Germany. It was the site of Prüm (Benedictine) Abbey founded in the 8th century. Behind me is Sankt-Salvator-Basilika built in 1721. The remaining monastery buildings adjacent to it are now a high school. Mentioned by Pepin (714-768) in the deed of 762, the church houses the relic of the sandals of Jesus Christ. Pepin received them as a gift from the pope. Over the next centuries, the monastery became wealthy though it had its ups and downs. While its abbot was a prince in the Holy Roman Empire and ruled over dozens of towns, villages and hamlets, outside secular powers increasingly looked to take it over. Despite the monastery’s internal strife and external pressures even from the pope, its more than 50 abbots through history refused to submit until the late 16th century. Controlled afterward by the archbishops-electors of Trier, the abbey once again flourished until the French Revolution. In 1794 Prüm was occupied by French troops and annexed to France. Soon after, the monastery was dissolved by Napoleon Bonaparte and its assets sold. In the course of the 19th century, Prüm became part of modern Germany in the State of Rhineland-Palatinate. During World War II, most of the town was destroyed by bombing and ground fighting.
June 1984. Notre Dame de Paris.
February 1992. Situated along the road to Lille is the chapel of the Ladrerie du Val d’Orcq in Tournai, Belgium, whose chevet (apse) was built in 1153. The church was enlarged in the 1690’s. Made of rubble stone and covered with a tiled roof resting on stone corbels, the chapel has retained its original appearance and is an active parish today. The charming Romanesque building bears witness to a large medieval leper colony called ‘Bonne Maison du Val’ that was dependent on the Tournai magistrate and cathedral chapter of canons and destroyed under Louis XIV (1638-1715). The small open portal in the west façade is characterized by its harped jambs and basket-handle arch and is surmounted by a niche of the same shape. The roof of the nave is crowned by a square bell tower with a pyramidal roof. The sanctuary was classified as an official historic monument in 1936.
September 1993. Me in Nevers, France, at the Loire River next to its 12th century ramparts.
July 1984. Pitter Keller, Salzburg, Austria. Dr. Len Biallas and his wife Martha took me there one night after a day of car touring for dinner and festivity.
July 1984. Steps directly above the “Sound of Music” steps in the Mirabell Palace Gardens. Salzburg, Austria. 3.12mb
July 1984. Part of the waterpark at Schloss Hellbrunn near Morzg south of Salzburg, Austria. I am standing at left with a bearded Dr. Len Biallas and his wife Martha seated nearby. The palace was built in 1613–19 by the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg and used as a daytime villa. It is a ten-minute car ride or less than one hour’s walk from Salzburg’s city center. The schloss is famous for its jeux d’eau (watergames) on the grounds, including this one where, as shown, water sprays out of the stone seats of guests who would be dining at the stone table to the amusement hopefully of all. Greek and Roman mythology plays a main role in the fountains which is expressive to the Mannerist zeitgeist.
July 1984. Halstaat, Austria on the Hallstätter See and the steep slopes of the Dachstein massif. The town lies on the national road linking Salzburg and Graz in the Salzkammergut region.
July 1984. Piazzetta San Marco, Venice, Italy. Between the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Biblioteca Marciana (St. Mark’s library), Piazzetta San Marco connects the Piazza S. Marco to the lagoon. The original pair of granite columns were erected in 1268 (these are copies). Atop one is St. Theodore and the other is the winged lion, the symbol of St. Mark. Across the lagoon is the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore designed by Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) and built between 1566 and 1610. This photograph was taken from the upper story of St. Mark’s Basilica.
 
July 1984. Grand Canal from Rialto Bridge, Venice, Italy.
July 1984. Newlyweds on the Rilato Bridge in Venice, Italy. I was taking photographs from the oldest bridge in Venice (built between 1588-1591) when I recognized by happenstance a fellow teacher from Loyola Academy standing there. Phil was with his wife and they were on their honeymoon.
January 1993, Moscow, Russia. Just east of the Great Kremlin Palace in Moscow, Russia, is Cathedrals Square. Facing the river is Assumption Cathedral. The church was the coronation cathedral of the czars and the burial place of the patriarchs. In 1812, French Enlightenment dictator Napoleon (1769-1821) used the church as animal stables and its religious icons were used as firewood to burn the city. The invading marauders also stole over 1000 pounds of gold and silver from this church. Built by Ridolfo “Aristotele” Fioravanti of Bologna (c. 1415- c. 1486) between 1475 and 1479, the five-dome, six-column structure is the largest church in the Kremlin. Its architectural style is traditional Russian from the Vladimir-Suzdal princedom (1157–1331) with its stylish curved zakomara gables at the tops of the walls and the “column belt’ at midwall. Though a highly rational design the Italian renaissance architect harmonized its proportions to be light and airy throughout. The frescos are a later addition (1500 and 1642).
January 1993. Moscow, Russia. Assumption Cathedral. Northern
portal. The church was thoroughly restored in in the 1890’s and 1910’s. Following
the 1917 Russian Revolution, the new Bolshevik government closed all churches
in the Moscow Kremlin, and converted the cathedral into a museum. Vladimir Lenin
permitted its final Easter service to be held in 1918. In 1991 the church was
fully restored to the Russian Orthodox Church.

January 1993. Moscow, Russia. Eleven-domed Church of the Nativity, the oldest church inside the Kremlin (1394), and the Church of the Deposition of the Robe (Timia Esthita) of the Holy Virgin (1486). Both in Cathedrals Square and now part of the Kremlin Museums. Once 11 churches stood in the Kremlin. Today there are six. The Robe of the Theotokos (“Mother of God”) entered history in 473 A.D. and is believed to have protected 9th century Constantinople and 15th century Moscow from attacks. The relic is maintained today in a museum in Zugdidi in Western Georgia. Originally, the Church of the Deposition of the Robe served as the private chapel of the Patriarch of Moscow and all Rus’. During the mid-17th century, the Russian royal family took it over.
January 1993. Moscow, Russia. The Archangel Cathedral named for St. Michael the Archangel. It was built between 1505 and 1509 by Alevisio Novi of Milan invited to work in Moscow by Ivan III of Russia (1440-1505). The architect’s first and principal work in Moscow was the Archangel Cathedral which was the burial place of Muscovite rulers from Ivan Kalita (c. 1288-c.1341) to Aleksey MIkhailovich (1629-1676). The cathedral’s elaborate Northern Italian Renaissance decorative detail was extensively copied throughout 16th-century Russia. Inside the church the icon of the archangel Michael is attributed to Andrei Rublev (c. 1360- c. 1430).
January 1993. Me at the door of the Archangel Cathedral, Kremlin, Moscow, Russia.
January 1993. Moskovskaya Ploshchad (Moscow Square) is a major square in St. Petersburg (formerly Leningrad) in Russia. The House of Soviets stands in the square. Built between 1936 and 1941 the building has been described by Stephen Sennott (Encyclopedia of Twentieth Century Architecture, 2004) as “the purest form of totalitarian monumentality.” The architect was Noy Trotsky (1895-1940) who adapted his constructivism to Stalin’s preferred neoclassicism. Also planned for the square was a Palace of Youth, a Palace of the Red Army and Navy, and triumphal arches but only the House of Soviets was built as development was interrupted by the onset of World War II. In front of the House of Soviets stands a monument to Lenin on a granite pedestal placed in the square in 1970. The House of Soviets was constructed to accommodate the Soviet of People’s Deputies, at the time the main legislative body of the city. It is the largest office building in St. Petersburg and one of the largest in Russia. Its main facade is 220 meters long and 50 meters high. The height of the emblem of the RSFSR (Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic) on the roof of the building is 11 meters. This House of Soviets was on the front line when the Nazis invaded and besieged the city in 1941.
January 1993. Palace Square, St. Petersburg, Russia. The Winter Palace (1754-1762) was the winter residence of the czars until the early 20th century. It was designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700-1771), an Italian architect born in Paris who moved to St. Petersburg in 1716. Rastrelli also designed Smolny Convent (1748-1764) in St. Petersburg. The interior has been redone several times by various architects. In the center of the square rises the Alexander Column designed by Auguste de Montferrand (1786-1858) and constructed between 1830 and 1834 as the architect was in the midst of erecting St. Isaac’s Cathedral (1816–1858). The red Finnish granite column and base rises 154 foot in the air and commemorates Russia’s  victory over Napoleon in the War of 1812. It weighs around 700 tons. The angel at the top has the face of Czar Alexander I (1777-1825) and symbolizes peace in Europe following the defeat of Napoleon. To the Czar’s ordinary subjects, the Winter Palace was seen as a symbol of Imperial power and has been at the center of some of Russia’s most momentous events in modern history. Three stand out as watersheds in Russian history – namely, the Bloody Sunday massacre in 1905; the opening of the first State Duma in 1906; and the capture of the palace by revolutionaries and declaration of it as part of the Hermitage public museums in 1917.
January 1993. Street scene, Russia.
january 1993. Russia right after the fall of the USSR (1917-1992).
January 1993. Catherine Palace, royal palace of Catherine the Great (1729-1796) in Tsarskoe Selo (“Tsar’s Village”), today Pushkin, near St. Petersburg, Russia. Pushkin is 15 miles south of St. Petersburg. Catherine the Great used the palace every summer and used architect Charles Cameron (1745-1812) to remodel some of the rooms in neoclassic style. Much of the palace and its contents were lost in World War II with restoration slowly taking place afterwards. The palace was begun in 1718 by Johann Friedrich Braunstein (d. after 1718) built for Catherine I Alekseevna Mikhailova (1684-1727), second wife and consort of Peter the Great (1672-1725). She succeeded him as Empress of Russia, ruling from 1725 until her death in 1727. During the reign of Peter the Great’s daughter, Empress Elizabeth (1709-1762), Imperial architect Mikhail Zemtsov (1688-1743) designed a new palace with work beginning in 1744. In 1745, Zemtsov’s pupil, Andrey Vasilievich Kvasov (c.1720-c. 1770), working with Savva Ivanovich Chevakinsky (1709-c.1774), expanded the palace. It was completed by Rastrelli in a full-blown baroque style that included double columns and statuary along a 326-yard wide exterior.
January 1993. Catherine Palace, Pushkin, Russia. 50%.
September 1993. Palais du Tau, Reims: la Salle du Goliath. Palais du Tau was the palace of the Archbishop of Reims next to the cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims where the coronation of the kings of France took place. The palace is associated with the kings of France also since they stayed in the palace the night before the coronation ceremony and had a banquet in the palace afterwards. The first recorded coronation banquet was held at the palace in 990 and the last one in 1825. The chapel from 1207 has survived as the palace was rebuilt in Gothic style between 1498 and 1509. Jules Hardouin-Mansart (1646-1708) and Robert de Cotte (1656-1735) modified the palace to its present Baroque appearance between 1671 and 1710.
December 1989. Haarlem, Netherlands. Smedestraat. In the background is the Grote Kerk or St.-Bavokerk. 2.01mb Scan_20250110 (4)
December 1989. Musée de l’Œuvre-Notre-Dame, Strasbourg, France.
December 1989. Barrage Vauban (1690) on River Ill, Petite France, Strasbourg, France. 1.86mb
December 1989. Barrage Vauban (1690) on River Ill, Petite France, Strasbourg, France. 1.96 mb. The barrage built in pink Vosges sandstone is 390 foot long and has 13 arches.  It was constructed by French engineer Jacques de Tirade (1646-1720) between 1686 and 1690 on the plans of his colleague, military engineer Vauban (1633-1707). Its main function was as a lock to raise the river’s water level in time of war so that land outside the city would become flooded and impassable to hostile forces. The Barrage Vauban was used for this tactic in the Franco-Prussian War in 1870.
December 1989. A lunch to remember on a rainy afternoon in Beaune, France. 25%. Today it is Domaine des Vins.
May 2005. Houdan, France. The Houdan chicken is an old French breed of domestic chicken whose breeders became the royal chicken supplier to the French kings’ court at Versailles beginning with Louis XIII (1601-1643). With the onset of the railroads, it was recorded that in 1872-1873 more than 600,000 Houdan chickens were sold. During World War I, large breeders and the Houdan chicken almost completely disappeared from the scene. The breed was reintroduced in 1927. La Poularde is a gastronomique destination where we ate a memorable déjeuner that included the historic French repast. see – https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/houdan-chicken/ – retrieved March 5, 2025. 65% Scan_20210220 (56) (2).
May 2005. Bièvres, France. We visited Bièvres about eight miles southwest of Paris because of its association with Symbolist artist Odilon Redon ( 1840-1916). We ate a delicious déjeuner at Tabac De Mairie, a sidewalk café at 2 Rue Léon Mignotte just outside this photograph to the left. The artist Redon and his wife Camille (née Falte, 1860-1925), were interred together in the cemetery at Bièvres. This Île-de France village ascends from a crossroads and the villagers remember the artist’s summer sojourns there after 1909. When Redon’s natal home of Peyrelebade was sold in 1897, he and Camille adopted Villa Juliette in Bièvres from Camille’s half-sister for their retreats from Paris. During World War I, Redon retreated into his native Southwest France for extended periods of time. But after his death he was brought to Bièvres. 65% Scan_20210220 (30) (2)
March 1992. Ash Wednesday. Sint-Baafs Kathedraal, Ghent.
December 1989. Brugges, Belgium. The 272-foot-tall Belfort (belfry) from the 13th century is one of Europe’s oldest examples of medieval urban and public architecture. The tallest octagonal portion of the belfry was added in the 1480’s. In the 16th century, the tower received a carillon. 1.66 mb Scan_20250110
May 2005. Western façade of Pontoise Cathédrale Saint-Maclou from Rue de la Coutellerie. The early 12th century apse is Romanesque with the mid-late-12th century vault of the ambulatory and the windows of the transept the beginning of Gothic. The flamboyant Gothic façade is 15th century. It was In 1525 that the north aisle of the church was replaced by a double aisle bordered by chapels and a portal was opened onto the Place du Grand-Martroy. In 1552 Pierre Lemercier (1552-1532), first of a prestigious family of Pontoise architects, undertook to complete the western façade tower by building the dome. In the 16th century the south aisle was bordered by a belt of chapels and large columns replaced thin medieval columns while the upper windows were rebuilt. In 1585, the pillars of the chancel were rebuilt. Saint-Maclou was about 700 years old when it became a cathedral in 1966 when Pontoise became a diocese.
https://ville-pontoise.fr/la-cathedrale-saint-maclou
– retrieved March 5, 2025. 1.33mb Scan_20210220 (6) (1)
September 1993, Chapel of the Apparitions, Paray-le-Monial, France. Paray-Le-Monial is in the Charolais-Brionnais region of France (South Burgundy) about equi-distant from Autun to the north, Lyon to the southeast and Clermont-Ferrand in the south west. A Benedictine abbey was founded in Paray-le-Monial in 973 (Cluny is about 30 miles to the east) and there are many existing Romanesque churches in the region. The Cluny monks were the lords of the town until 1789. While there are notable grandiose churches and former churches in town (Basilica of Paray-le-Monial, 12th century; Tour Saint-Nicolas, 16th century), Paray-le-Monial is an international pilgrimage site for La Chapelle des Apparitions on Rue Visitation at the Convent of the Visitation-Sainte-Marie where Saint Marguerite-Marie Alacoque (1647-1690) had her four great visions of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. From humble origins, Marguerite-Marie who grew up in nearby Verosvres felt called to the convent of the Visitation, an order of nuns of mostly aristocratic background, which she entered in June 1671. An order founded by the widowed Baroness Saint Jeanne de Chantal (1571-1641), the 40 nuns in Paray-le-Monial were dedicated to practical work of serving the sick and poor of which some of these nuns in Paray-le-Monial had no vocation and few to none much use for visionaries. Here at this place on December 27, 1673 (the feast of St. John the Apostle), Christ revealed in a vision His Sacred Heart to her. With each vision Christ communicated a specific message regarding his particular revelation. In late 1674 she was promised by Christ an understanding spiritual director and in 1675 was sent the shrewd and brilliant Père Saint Claude de la Colombière (1641-1682), a young Jesuit priest from Paris. Confirming Marguerite-Marie in her path, the confessor kept in contact with La Mère de Saumaise, the prudent and holy convent superior, who ordered Marguerite-Marie to write down to her her experiences in letters that exist today. In one letter Marguerite-Marie relates that Jesus told her that a faithful heavenly guardian angel has been placed by her side “who will accompany you everywhere and assist you in all your inner needs and who will prevent your enemy from taking advantage of all the faults into which he will believe to make you fall by his suggestions, which will return to his confusion” (“Ma fille, ne t’afflige pas, car je te veux donner un gardien fidèle qui t’accompagnera partout et t’assistera dans toutes tes nécessités intérieures et qui empêchera que ton ennemi ne se prévaudra point de toutes les fautes où il croira de te faire tomber par ses suggestions, qui retourneront à sa confusion.”) In this chapel, before the Blessed Sacrament honored on the altar, Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had her greatest vision in 1676, where Jesus presented his heart to her and called for a special feast to honor his heart to be on the Friday after Corpus Christi Sunday. By 1686 Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was novice mistress and she encouraged her young novices to draw pictures of the Sacred Heart and honor them on the altar. The rest of the convent gradually followed her example. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque died in 1690 at 43 years old. She was beatified in 1864 by pope Pius IX and canonized in 1920 by Benedict XV. (Claude de la Colombière was beatified in 1929 by Pius XI and canonized in 1992 by John Paul II). We spent two days there as pilgrims in Paray-le-Monial staying in lodgings with pilgrims from around the world directly across the street from this Chapel of Apparitions where Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque’s tomb is and where we attended Mass in French with mostly French people. 45%
September 1993. Auxerre clock and belfry (15th century), Auxerre, France. Auxerre was a flourishing Gallo-Roman center called Autissiodorum. The first century Via Agrippa, a main road, ran through Auxerre and crossed the Yonne. It became a bishop’s seat in the 200’s and was a provincial capital of the Roman Empire. It became a cathedral town in the 400’s. A “modern” Auxerre developed in the 11-12th centuries defined and enfolded by a state-of-the-art fortified wall. The Clock Tower, in the Old Town, has been marking time since the 15th century – starting as a prison and then as a clock and belfry. Attached to the tower, a chamber hosts the clock’s mechanism which has worked since 1483, made by a clockmaker known only as “Jean.” The clock has a solar hand that goes around the face in 24 hours and a lunar hand which is three-quarters slow compared to the other. This gives the passerby both sun and moon times. Scan_20220520 (72) see – https://www.ot-auxerre.com/destination-lauxerrois/destination-history/must-see-monuments/the-clock-tower-ans-its-astronomical-clock/ – retrieved Aug. 20, 2025.