FEATURED image: Manuscript 16th century (detail): Queen consort Anne of Brittany (1477-1514) receiving a Book of Hours from her Dominican confessor, Antoine Dufour (d.1509). Montfort L’Amaury returned to the crown of France after Anne of Brittany married Charles VIII “the Affable” (1470-1498) in 1491.
Started in the 11th century, L’Église St. Pierre anchors part of the centre ville of Montfort L’Amaury, a town in France about 30 miles west of Paris. The photograph is taken from the ruins of the chateau on the town’s heights. The late 10th century Frankish king Robert II built a castle in the hills of Montfort. From the start of the 11th century, Montfort-l’Amaury was the stronghold of the Montfort family. Author’s photograph.
At the north edge of the Rambouillet forest the city of Montfort L’Amaury spreads along the restored ruins of its ancient fortified castle. Founded under the Capetian kings, the city owes its fame to Simon de Montfort (1208-1265), Anne de Bretagne (1477-1514), the Valois royal dynasty, and Henry IV (1553-1610). Its monuments begin in the 11th century, stretch towards exceptional Renaissance stained-glass windows and half-timbered houses as its civilization has attracted writers, artists, and musicians to live there. This would include the house of Maurice Ravel (1875-1937) called Le Belvédère where he lived from 1921 until his death and where we were invited to sit at, and play, the piano where Ravel composed Boléro. It was in March 2002 during a visit to Paris and the Île-de France that we ventured through Yvelines by train to Montfort-L’Amaury for a day trip which included a memorable déjeuner in a restaurant that has since disappeared.
Interior, L’Église Saint-Pierre (Church of St. Peter), late 15th century, Montfort L’Amaury, France. Author’s photograph.
The interior of Saint Pierre church is bright and intimate. Like other French monuments, today’s Saint-Pierre was completed over many centuries. Its origin is in the 11th century. A notable reconstruction of the edifice began in the late 15th century by initiative of Queen Consort, Anne of Bretagne. There is a vast ambulatory around both sides of the nave. Since 1840, the church has been an historic monument because of its unique ensemble of 37 stained glass windows. The oldest date from the 1540s and 1570s. The others were installed in the late16th century. That ecclesial project was started by Catherine de Medicis (1519-1589) in 1562. The windows were installed during the time of the Council of Trent (1545-1563) and some of the glass commemorates that event. As none of the glasswork is signed, it is not known whether its painters are from Montfort L’Amaury or elsewhere.
St. Peter Window. L’Église Saint-Pierre, Montfort L’Amaury, France. Throughout France starting in the 1540s there was a growing taste and demand for stained glass windows in their local churches. The experimentation in glasswork and painting by the middle of the 16th century allowed for the iconography in these stained glass windows to express numerous details and refined techniques. Public Domain.Detail. St. Peter Window. Public Domain.Detail. Nativity Window. Public Domain.The south exterior of L’Église Saint-Pierre along Rue de Dion in Montfort L’Amaury. The exterior wall shows flying buttresses designed in the French Renaissance style as well as gargoyles that were sculpted in the late 15th century. The building is constructed of calcified stone that came from towns to the north, precisely, Maule, and a more distant Vernon on the Seine. The interior ambulatory that surrounds the nave on both sides and ends at the chevet expresses the building’s gothic aspect. Street lamps and a narrow street with tight parking has room for a small tree next to the church. Author’s photograph.Montfort L’Amaury has half-timbered houses dating to the 16th century. This is no. 16, Place de la Libération, just steps from the front entrance of Église St. Pierre. At the beginning of October 1825 young Victor Hugo (1802-1885) lived in Montfort L’Amaury for a few days. He wrote a letter to his father in Paris and described it as “a charming little town ten leagues from Paris, where there are ruins, woods, and one of my friends…” Author’s photograph.Portrait de Victor Hugo sur fond de Notre-Dame de Reims, Jean Alaux, 1825, Maison de Victor Hugo – Hauteville House, oil on cardboard. Public Domain. https://www.parismuseescollections.paris.fr/fr/maison-de-victor-hugo/oeuvres/portrait-de-victor-hugo-sur-fond-de-notre-dame-de-reimsView of the church from the east. The church of Saint Pierre is of late gothic origin. It was rebuilt and decorated in the 15th, 16th, and early 17th centuries. Following the French Revolution and its aftermath, the church building received an extensive restoration in the mid19th century, including a new steeple. Except for one stained glass window that was restored in situ, all the 16th-century stained glass windows were taken out, restored, and reinstalled by a master painter in Metz between 1851 and 1857. Author’s photograph.Chevet. L’Église Saint-Pierre. Public Domain.On Saint Pierre’s front stoop is busy Place de la Libération and with Rue de la Libération just beyond. At the end of the street is the rounded 16th century La Porte Bardoul, one of gateways to the chateau. It was named in the 16th century for the Captain who built the ramparts of Montfort L’Amaury in the 11th century (Hugues Bardoul). Author’s photograph.“Charles Aznavour – Disque D’Or” by Piano Piano! is licensed under CC BY 2.0. Charles Aznavour (1924-2018), dubbed France’s Frank Sinatra, never lived in Montfort L’Amaury. For 60 years, the singer lived in Galluis, a neighboring town just 5 minutes by car up the road. Yet, in those many years, Aznavour frequently came to Montfort L’Amaury, sometimes to go shopping or visit friends or eat at one of its excellent restaurants. In 2018 Aznavour was buried in the cemetery in Montfort L’Amaury and has become a pilgrimage site for his many fans.The cemetery at Montfort L’Amaury dates from the sixteenth century and is an interesting site to visit for its history, architecture, and people buried within. As dead bodies were originally buried in the ground as they are today, over the many centuries the bones were later exhumed and deposited in ossuaries. This was essential during epidemics that occurred regularly when ground-space for burials was at a premium for the bodies of the newly dead. Built to give the appearance of a cloister, these galleries are actually a mass grave. Its architecture is charming and conveys the aspect of a Romantic bone-yard. Fair Use. Ruins of the castle of Montfort-l’Amaury. In the foreground is Le Belvédère, the house of Maurice Ravel. Montfort-l’Amaury Donjon by ℍenry Salomé(Jaser !) 08:12, 21 November 2006 (UTC) – Cliché personnel, own work is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0
The role of Montfort l’Amaury as a town began to develop in the High Middle Ages when Capetian king, Robert II (976-1031), built a castle there in the forest of Yvelines which was then a royal prerogative. William of Hainaut built the castle whose walls were finished around 1050. Hugues Bardoule was captain of the castle and thus a later 16th century gateway is named after him. It is in the 11th century that L’Église Saint-Pierre and L’Église Saint Laurent begin to be built. Robert II was married three times, and excommunicated by the Catholic Church – one of the early examples of French royals who married as they wished.
In the twelfth century, Bertrade de Montfort (1070-1117), after giving birth to a boy who would become King of Jerusalem, left her husband, the Duke of Anjou, Fulk IV (1043-1109) in 1092. She married the king of France, Philip I “the Amorous” whose spouse, Bertha of Holland, was also still living.
Philip was so in love with Bertrade that he refused to leave her even when threatened and finally excommunicated by Pope Urban II (1035-1099) in 1095. Because of his excommunication Philip was prevented from taking part in the First Crusade (1096-1099).
Bertrade de Montfort and King Philip I “the Amorous.” Chroniques de Saint-Denis (ou de France), British Library, Royal 16 G VI f. 271. 14th Century (1332-1350). https://www.bl.uk/IllImages/Kslides%5Cbig/K137/K137596.jpgThe ramparts and castle. Author’s photograph.
The ramparts and castle were destroyed by the English during the Hundred Years’ War in the 15th century. After the battle of Agincourt in 1419, the English occupied the French domain and it was during this time that the castle at Montfort was destroyed. The two rebuilt towers were named for Anne of Brittany after she assisted in the castle’s restoration. From this height, the fort overlooked the old Roman road from Beauvais to Chartres.
Also from this place, troops assembled at Montfort L’Amaury in the 12th century as Amaury III raised lords and knights to fight alongside Louis VI (1081-1137) against the Emperor of Germany. Simon IV fought alongside Philippe II Auguste (1165-1223) against the English as well as to the Crusades in the Middle East and the Albigensian Crusade in southern France. The Montforts distinguished themselves especially in this crusade against the Cathars.
At the beginning of the Third Crusade (1189-1192), not wanted by King Philippe Auguste (1165-1223), the future Louis VIII “the Lion” (1187-1226) was looking for companions. Simon IV, Lord of Montfort (1175-1218), embarked on the crusade where victory was equalled by its terror.
Stained glass (detail) Chartres cathedral: Simon de Montfort V (1208-1265). Simon was born in the chateau in 1208. Whereas his brother Amaury V (1191-1241) inherited his father’s French properties, including in the south of France owing to his father’s Cathar crusade, Simon V is known to history as having a major role in the constitutional development of England where he successfully led the barons’ opposition to the absolute rule of King Henry III (1207-1272) of England. During his rule of England Simon de Montfort V called two famous parliaments, one of which recognized the voices of ordinary town citizens in the affairs of government making him one of the progenitors of modern parliamentary democracy. Public Domain.
In January 1238, Montfort married Eleanor of England, daughter of King John and Isabella of Angoulême and sister of English King Henry III. While this marriage took place with the king’s approval, the act itself was performed secretly and without consulting the great barons. Eleanor had previously been married and swore a vow of perpetual widowhood after her husband died. This vow was broken when she married Montfort and, for that reason, the Archbishop of Canterbury condemned it. The English nobles protested the marriage of the king’s sister to a foreigner who was only of modest rank. Most notably, Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwell, the king’s and Eleanor’s brother, rose up in revolt over the marriage. King Henry III eventually bought off his brother and peace was restored. The marriage brought property to Montfort and when a child was born of the union in late 1238, he was baptized Henry, in honor of his uncle, the king. In February 1239, Montfort was finally invested as Earl of Leicester where he acted as the king’s advisor and became godfather to Henry’s eldest son, Edward, who became King Edward I (“Longshanks”).
Eleanor of England who married Simon de Montfort V in 1238 in an early-fourteenth-century Genealogical Roll of the Kings of England. Public Domain.The author at the ramparts. These fortifications were originally built over 1000 years ago in the early 11th century by Amaury I. The walls run from east to west creating a superficial size of Montfort at about 4 to 5 hectares (one hectare equals about two and a half acres). Portions of the wall were dismantled during the 100 Years War but rebuilt during the Wars of Religion (1562-1598) as well as Montfort’s reception of a royal charter by Charles IX in the mid16th century. The rebuilt wall had to expand to meet the development of Montfort under Anne de Bretagne a half a century before, though substantial portions of the original 11th century wall were incorporated into the construction. Author’s collection.Manuscript 16th century (detail): Queen consort Anne of Brittany (1477-1514) receiving a Book of Hours from her Dominican confessor, Antoine Dufour (d.1509). Montfort L’Amaury returned to the crown of France after Anne of Brittany married Charles VIII “the Affable” (1470-1498) in 1491.
From Montfort L’Amaury, the lords continued to assist the French kings in the crusades. After John I, only a daughter allowed the continuity of the Montfort family. Beatrice d’Albidon married Robert, Count of Dreux. The Comté de Montfort was related to the Duchy of Brittany following the marriage of Yolande de Dreux-Montfort (1263-1330) with Arthur II of Brittany (1261-1312) in 1294. With their marriage in February 1492, Anne of Brittany became the first Queen of France crowned in St. Denis basilica. The marriage contract of Anne to Charles VIII “the Affable” stipulated a union of France and Brittany though the ruthless Charles forbade her to reign with her title, “Duchess of Brittany.” The contract also stated that if the queen were to die first and was childless, the king would inherit all her property. In this pre-nuptial agreement, it further stipulated that if Charles VIII died first Anne must marry his successor. This would be his cousin and brother-in-law, the handsome and seductive Louis II of Orléans, later, Louis XII (1462-1515). Though Charles and Anne often lived apart, she was pregnant for most of her married life with a child on average every fourteen months that produced two sons who died and two daughters who lived. After the accidental death of warring Charles in April 1498 (he hit his head on a door lintel), there was no male heir and 22-year-old Anne duly married Louis. Before she married French kings, Anne was engaged 8 times and briefly was married in 1490 to the Holy Roman Emperor, Maximilian, which the French did not like. Anne was still a married woman when she and Charles the Affable exchanged vows in December 1491. To prevent scandal the marriage had to be regularized by the pope who annulled Anne’s marriage to Maximilian in February 1492 and granted the royal couple a dispensation for each marrying their relative. Before new king Louis XII could marry Anne he had his 22-year marriage to Joan of France – a marriage of longer duration than Anne was then alive – annulled. In 1476 Louis believed he had had Joan forced on him by Louis XI (“The Universal Spider”) and never really cared for her. In what has been described as one of the seamiest lawsuits of the Middle Ages, Joan went on childless from her disappeared marriage to die in a nunnery. In 1499 it was the king’s second marriage and Anne’s third. Anne was quite aware that she was no longer a child but a 33-year-old woman, divorced and widowed with two children. She proceeded to actively insist at court on her rights and prerogatives. Though King Louis XII ruled Brittany, he officially recognized Anne’s title Charles had forbade and Louis promulgated decisions in her name. Their contract stipulated that Anne’s second child with Louis XII would rule Brittany. But with Anne’s death at 36 years old in 1514 this was not honored. Anne was coronated again in St. Denis basilica in 1504. She lived mostly at Blois and was an important patron of the Italian and French fine arts. Louis XII died the next year without a legitimate heir and his cousin and son-in-law Francis I mounted the throne. The couple were buried in St. Denis basilica. During the French Revolution in the wake of the frenzy of having decapitated the king in January 1793, revolutionaries made their way to St. Denis basilica and desecrated the graves of Anne of Brittany and Louis XII and threw their remains into a mass grave. This 15-16th century union of Brittany and France brought increased benefits to Montfort L’ Amaury compared to a union with Brittany alone. The new period saw the town’s castle ruins restored and there was new construction everywhere. The cemetery was relocated outside city walls. Churches were rebuilt and enhanced with that day’s art. While reaping these material improvements from its royal benefactors, Montfort maintained a semi-autonomy from the crown of France that would not be changed until 1550 when Brittany and the French Crown finally united under a single sovereign, Henry II (1519-1559).
Jean Perréal (1455-1529), Portrait Louis XII, c. 1514, Windsor collections de S.M. la Reine d’Angleterre. Jean Perréal’s most important attribution is this portrait of Louis XII who was King of France from 1498 to 1515. Louis XII was married three times – the first annulled; the second leaving the king a widower, and, in his last three months of life, to Mary Tudor (1496-1533), the favorite sister of King Henry VIII of England. Despite these wives, the king had no living sons. The Salic Law prohibited his line to continue on the French throne through his daughters. When Louis died in 1515, his throne eventually passed to his cousin, Francis I.
Under the Valois the Yvelines region of which Montfort is a central part received royal favor. Catherine de Medici (1519-1589) was named the Lady of Montfort in 1561. When the Wars of Religion broke out (1562-1598), the king, Charles IX (1550-1574), offered to the city home-rule in exchange for the reconstruction of its medieval ramparts at his expense. At the end of these wars, the passage of the future king, Henry IV (1553-1610) on the road that led him to Paris to take power, allowed Montfort L’Amaury to prove its loyalty to the new king. Montfort provided Henry Navarre with weapons and later obtained special rights in exchange. During the reigns of the first two Bourbon kings of France, Henry IV and Louis XIII (1601-1643), there are frequent royal visits to Montfort L’Amaury.
A canonized Catholic saint among the Valois- Joan of Valois (1464 – 1505), sister of Charles VIII, and betrothed of Louis XII.
Portrait of Joan of Valois as abbess by Jean Perréal (1455-1530).
The second daughter of Louis XI (1423-1483) and Charlotte of Savoy (1411-1483), Joan of Valois was a fleeting Queen of France as the wife of King Louis XII following the death of her brother, King Charles VIII. Her marriage was soon annulled so that Louis could, as pre-arranged by contract, marry Charles VIII’s widow, Anne of Brittany.
Joan’s demeanor was characterized by an accepting and placid countenance. When she retired from court politics to become Duchess of Berry, the former Queen of France remarked: “If so it is to be, praised be the Lord.”
In Bourges, Joan of Valois founded a monastic order of sisters and served them as their abbess. In terms of her personality, Joan could be autocratic as an administrator of her nuns, which may have been a vestige of her former high-born role. Joan was canonized in May 1950, almost 450 years after her death.
Workshop of François Clouet. Catherine de’ Medici wears the black cap and veil of widow, after 1559. Upon seeing Catherine in the flesh, an Italian diplomat noted that “her mouth is too large and her eyes too prominent and colorless for beauty. But she is very distinguished-looking, has beautiful skin, a shapely figure, and exquisitely made hands.”Portrait de Henri IV, roi de France et de Navarre (1553-1610) 1600 / 1700 (XVIIe siècle), Atelelier de Frans Pourbus II Louvre. Hung in Versailles chateau. https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl010057776Marie de’ Medici, 1616, Frans Pourbus the Younger (Flemish, 1569-1622), oil on canvas, The Art Institute of Chicago. Marie de Medici (1575-1642) married Henry IV of France in 1600. After the king was assassinated in Paris in 1610, Marie de Medici served as the regent for their young son, Louis XIII. Marie de Medici brought Frans Pourbus to the French court to make regal portraits of the royal family.Louis XIII between the figures of two young women symbolizing France and Navarre. 1636/38, School of Simon Vouet (1590-1649). Louvre, Paris. https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl010062003
Le Belvédère: the House of Maurice Ravel from 1921 to his death in 1937 at Montfort L’Amaury.
The author in front of Le Belvédère, the house of Maurice Ravel, and ready to go inside for a visit. Author’s collection.Pianist Jacques Février with Maurice Ravel in 1925 in Le Belvédère, the house of the composer in Montfort-l’Amaury. Public Domain.The salon of the Ravel house. Author’s photograph.
Ravel’s house sits on an ascent from the centre ville where Ravel could look out his garden-side window to back towards town and south and east to the green countryside between Montfort and Paris. Author’s photograph.
Jean Anouilh (1910-1987) was a French dramatist who lived in Montfort-L’Amaury in France. Anouilh’s 1944 play, Antigone, was an adaptation play of Sophocles’ play of the same name. The 34-year-old Anouilh’s work was seen as an attack on the Vichy government of Marshal Pétain (1856-1951) in World War II.
Anouiih also wrote Becket. The original French play is titled Becket ou l‘Honneur de Dieu. It was staged in Paris at the Théâtre Montparnasse-Gaston Baty in October 1959 and directed by Anouilh. The play dramatizes historical martyr and Catholic saint Thomas Becket (1120-1170), the Archbishop of Canterbury In England, whose feast day is December 29.
Becket was the best friend to younger King Henry II of England. Cunning and proud, vulnerable and lonely, pent-up King Henry is interested in hunting and women, and not necessarily in that order. Henry is bored with political affairs and as king has his one friend, Thomas Becket, who is his companion in vice and debauchery.
Becket serves his king loyally, without compromise. Wanting to strengthen his power over the Church in England and believing his idea to be an excellent one, Henry appoints Becket as chancellor of England and he later becomes Archbishop of Canterbury. But nothing goes as planned. Becket, on his path to sainthood, finds he cannot serve both king and God.
For Henry the arrangement is one of disillusionment, resentment, hatred, and torn friendship – and, later, repentance. For Becket it is a tale of courage, renunciation, and honor as the archbishop seeks to defend church freedom in England against an ambitious secular power. Such conflict provokes Becket’s murder by the king’s knights in the archbishop’s own cathedral.
Anouilh’s Becket became an international sensation. Successive productions in English translation were mounted in London (starring Christopher Plummer and Eric Porter) and in New York City (starring Laurence Olivier and Anthony Quinn). In 1964 Becket became a major motion picture starring Richard Burton and Peter O’Toole which won the Academy Award for Best Screenplay.
SOURCES:
Montfort L’Amaury de l’an mil à nos jours, Marie-Huguette Hadrot, Paris: Somogy Editions d’Art, 2002.
Montfort-L’Amaury, Le Syndicat d’Initiative des Fêtes et des Arts de Montfort-L’Amaury et ses Environs, 1972.
Montfort-L’Amaury Les Verrières de L’Eglise Paroissiale Saint-Pierre(Yvelines), Laurence de Finance and Marie-Huguette Hadrot, Paris: Centre de Documentation du Patrimoine, 1994.
FEATURE image: July 1984. Marienplatz, Munich, Germany. 7.91mb 91%
Unless otherwise noted, all photographs by John P. Walsh.
Paris 1976. Senior class trip. I’m in the second row third from the right. Photographer unknown. Fair use.
Every year the senior class at Benet Academy went to London during Christmas/winter break. That year the travel agent (“The World is Your Schoolhouse” as I recall) offered a side trip of sorts to Paris. It would be two nights and would replace, not be added onto, the week’s stay in London. The offer was put to a vote to the group in September 1976 and Paris was approved. The first stop was Notre Dame cathedral and I can still remember my reaction – my jaw dropped in awe of walking inside my first Gothic cathedral. Chaperoned by two English teachers and their wives, the rules were, you could party all night long if you like, but you had to be at breakfast to do the tours each morning. We visited the Louvre, Jeu de Paume, Eiffel Tower, the exterior of a soon-to-opened Pompidou Center, the Arc de Triomphe, Sacré-Cœur, and scoured some of the oldest streets in Paris in the Latin Quarter in search of its vibrant street life, medieval and other architecture, and student canteens. It certainly whetted my appetite for future trips. In the morning we took a charter bus to Calais and ferried across the English Channel to Dover in England. We stopped in Canterbury arriving in later afternoon on December 28, the day before St. Thomas Becket’s feast day marking his being martyred in Canterbury cathedral in 1170 — a major pilgrimage center since the 12th century — and then onwards to London arriving by nightfall.
Paris in 1976 Archive Footage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QASTAUjaUOw– retrieved November 6, 2024 London, South Bank, December 1976. I’m in there somewhere walking briskly. Photographer unknown. Fair use.
In London what was most remarkable for me was all the theatre we decided to see including A Chorus Line, Equus, Jesus Christ Superstar, and Tom Stoppard’s new production of Jumpers. A group of us did a medieval feast in a London hotel as well as an East End Indian restaurant. We also visited Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London, the changing of the Horse Guard at Buckingham Palace, and shopping at Herrod’s and Selfridge’s on Oxford Street. Some of us made speeches at Speakers’ Corner in Hyde Park. Out of this trip I learned the following about affording international (or any) travel in one’s busy life: it should be (1) a relatively short amount of time, (2) off season if possible, (3) well prepared and to the same destination possibly (“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford” – Samuel Johnson), and (4) that I work on the airplane outbound and return.
December 1976. Houses of Parliament, London.
A tour of London, England 1976. https://youtu.be/4GNbx_PZ3b0?si=SoKRwfR9w5rhnKu3 – retrieved Jan. 28, 2026. August 1978. Knappogue Castle, County Clare, Ireland. The castle tower was built in 1467. Author with Irish singer. 1.05mb
In 1978 I was in England, Wales and Ireland for 3 weeks with my family on an American Express tour. More theatre in London (saw Paul Scofield; Robert Morley), the British Museum, Westminster Abbey, Hampton Court, the Tube, etc.. We visited Warwick Castle, Bath, Oxford, Bristol, Coventry, Stratford-Upon-Avon, Salisbury, Chester, Liverpool, Llanfairpwllgwyngyll (longest name in Wales) and Holyhead, and other places. We crossed the Irish Sea by ferry to Dún Laoghaire in Dublin, Ireland, and onward to Jurys Hotel in Ballsbridge where we stayed for several days. We traveled south to Glendalough, New Ross (the Kennedy family homestead), Wexford, Waterford, Cork, the Blarney Stone, Killarney, the Ring of Kerry, Dingle peninsula (beach locations for Ryan’s Daughter), the Cliffs of Moher, Cong and surroundings (The Quiet Man locations), Limerick, and elsewhere.
June 1979. I was studying medieval Irish history at Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland.
Opened in 1967, the Berkeley Library building is at Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603), in the heart of Dublin, Ireland. The library building is an example of modern Brutalist architecture — exposed unpainted concrete, monochrome palette, steel, timber, and glass – a style that emerged in the United Kingdom in the 1950s as an alternative to nostalgic architecture. The library was named for George Berkeley (1685-1753), an 18th century scholar whose philosophical and scientific ideas on perception and reality presage the work of Albert Einstein (1879-1955). In 2023 Berkeley’s name was removed from the library by Trinity’s governing board because Berkeley had been a slave owner who actively defended slavery. Berkeley had been a Trinity fellow and, apt for the library building. its former librarian. George Berkeley is also the namesake of the University of California, Berkeley, and Berkeley College at Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut. – see https://www.insidehighered.com/news/quick-takes/2023/05/09/berkeley-name-dropped-trinity-college-library – retrieved October 5, 2023. In 1979 I was researching Irish History (13th to 16th centuries) at Trinity College and utilized the Berkeley and Old Library begun in 1712 as well as the National Library of Ireland (1877) around the corner on Kildare Street.
June 1979. The round tower at Glendalough in Wicklow County is a monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin (C. 498-618).
The tower served several functions – as bell tower, look out (note two of its four compass-point windows), marker for visitors, store house, and refuge during attack. The tower is nearly 100 feet tall with an entrance at about 5 feet off the ground. Made of mica-slate and granite, the tower once had 6 timber floors and its four stories were connected by a network of ladders and windows. The conical rooftop was rebuilt in 1876 using its original stones. In 1978 I had visited the monastic settlement in some ease and comfort with my family. The following year was a different experience entirely. My room-mate and I hitch hiked from Sandymount in Dublin to Enniskerry, slept outside near Powerscourt, and then walked much of the rest of the way into the wilderness of Sugar Loaf Mountain on the Old Military Road built by the British during Wolfe Tone’s rebellion in 1798. Alone with the sheep among the peat bogs (the source of the Liffey is here), we finally got another ride that whisked us to Laragh. We stopped at Patsy’s tea and scones and then to the hostel at the monastic settlement. After a beautiful first day, it started to rain in the evening, and the next day. We took the bus back to Dublin, and having showered and changed into fresh clothes at the chalets, we strolled with two more friends to Sandymount House on a busy Sunday night and settled back for talk and a couple of unforgettable Guinness pours.
June 1979. At our arrival, we hiked the hills above the monastic settlement of Glendalough. June 1979. St. Kevin’s Church, Glendalough. Kevin lived in the 6th century and is sort of a St. Francis of Assisi figure. Like the Italian 13th century St. Francis, Irish Kevin dressed in rough clothing, slept on stones, and ate very sparingly. Kevin went barefoot and spent his time in prayer. Also, like Francis, Kevin shared an extraordinary closeness to nature so that his regular companions were the animals and birds around him. St. Kevin of Glendalough was canonized in 1903 by Pope Saint Pius X. 40%
“St. Kevin and the Blackbird” by Seamus Heaney (1939-2013) is a poem about doing the right thing for the reward of doing it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKGmQcSFbMc – retrieved November 7, 2024. For text see – https://poetryarchive.org/poem/st-kevin-and-blackbird/ – retrieved November 7, 2024. June 1979. O’Donoghue’s is a popular pub since the 1930s closely associated with Irish traditional music. It is where the Irish folk group, The Dubliners, got their start in the 1960s.June 1979. O’Donoghue’s, 15 Merrion Row, Dublin, Ireland. June 1979. at O’Donoghue’s. 35%.
The Furey Brothers played at O’Donoghue’s Bar in the late 1970’s. “The Shipyard Slips” was written by David Wilde as a member of the Irish folk group, Men Of No Property, who recorded the song using the title ”The Island Men.” In 1977 it was covered by The Furey Brothers and Davey Arthur on this album, Morning On A Distant Shore, where in 1979 the single climbed to no. 26 in Ireland. see – https://www.irish-folk-songs.com/the-shipyard-slips-lyrics-chords-and-sheet-music.html and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fureys_discography – retrieved November 6, 2024.June 1979. Lunchtime concert in St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin. In the first part of the nineteenth century the Green was for gentry only. An iron gate put around it in 1815 had a lock and key for local residents. No working class or poor Irish were allowed in. Access to the Green was restricted until 1877 when, at the initiative of Lord Ardilaun (Arthur Guinness, 1840-1915), Parliament passed legislation that opened St Stephen’s Green to the public. He also funded the layout of the Green in its current form in 1880. People who gathered almost a century later, in 1979, included a crosssection of Dublin life – university students, professionals, trademen, families, and visitors. 50%.
What is filmed on July 3, 1975 was very much like what was happening in the same place in 1979. The area surrounding the bandstand proved particularly popular with the park goers. Sunny St Stephen’s Green, Ireland 1975. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbFU6ogKdB8 – retrieved November 7, 2024.June 1979. U.S .Embassy, Dublin. 50% Known officially as the Chancery Building at 42 Elgin Road, the U.S. Embassy is one of the most prestigious addresses and modernist buildings in Dublin. It opened in May 1964 in a triangle of land between Elgin and Pembroke Roads in Ballsbridge. I walked past it every day in summer 1979 on the way from Sandymount to Trinity College and the National Library mainly. Designed by Harvard professor John M. Johansen (1916-2012) and Irish architect Michael Scott (1905-1989) it was, in its circular shape, an homage to ancient Celtic monuments, most notably Newgrange, as well as round stone forts and Martello towers. Its design also invoked the original stars and stripes flag with its 13 stars representing 13 states. By 2024 the U.S. Embassy had erected tall gates around its perimeter and bought the old Jurys Hotel site to begin constructing a new and larger embassy after 60 years.July 1979. Galway City. On the Salmon Weir Bridge over the River Corrib. July 1979. Dancing and music as passengers traveled on the Galway Bay ferry to the Aran Islands. July 1979. Ferry from Galway to the Aran Islands.July 1979. Outbound Galway Bay.July 1979. Inishmore is the largest of the three Aran Islands in Galway Bay, off the west coast of Ireland. It is 12 square miles with a population of under 1000 locals. The island is one of the official government districts of Gaeltacht in Ireland’s west where the Irish language is the predominant language of the home. The photo depicts the island’s typical rocky landscape. Towards the close of a long day of touring, I went into a busy pub filled with locals to have a Guinness. I was served but had to wait a long time to catch the bartender’s eye. 50%
Dun AENGUS (Aran Islands,Inish Mor,Ireland) drone video 4K https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpTo3PM-Fs8 – retrieved November 5, 2024. July 1979. Prehistoric hill fort of Dun Aengus on Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands off Galway, Ireland. About half of the circle fort has fallen into the Atlantic Ocean 330 feet below. Excavations show that the fort goes back to at least 1100 B.C.June 1979. Postal strike parade, Dublin, Ireland. The strike by the Irish Post Office Workers Union began on February 19, 1979 and ended 18 weeks later. Strikers stopped delivery of mail so that during the strike I could neither send nor receive correspondence from family and friends in the U.S. Sometimes I gave mail to American friends in Ireland returning to the U.S. to post my mail there when they got back, which they did. Nevertheless, I could not receive mail coming the other way. When the strike ended in late June, workers received an average raise of £10. Although deliveries resumed on June 18, first-class mail was backlogged for months. After the strike, first-class mail was not accepted until July 9, and packages not until July 18. see – https://eirephilatelicassoc.org/abcs-of-philately/postal-strike-1979-167/; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/it-was-the-most-bitter-confrontation-in-the-history-of-the-state-1.796511 – retrieved January 8, 2025.August 1985. Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland. It is in the canyon of the Hvítá river in southwest Iceland.
October 2002. Anne Fontaine, Paris (3rd arr.). 204 kb 65%October 2002. Au Petit Tonneau, 20, rue Surcouf, Paris (7th arr.). 65%October 2002. Paris. October 2022. Paris. 400kb 75%June 1985. Tapas. Madrid, Spain.September 1993. Cathédrale Saint-Lazare d’Autun (1120). Statue St. Bernadette Soubirous (1844-1879). Autun, France. 1.15 mbOctober 2002. La Pagode, 57 bis rue de Babylone and rue Monsieur, Paris, 7th arr., France. 65%
In 1895 M. Morin, an executive at Le Bon Marché, looked to give his wife a gift. Since the 1860s, Japanese art and its influences and practices (known as “japonisme”) had a profound impact on France’s own fine and popular arts, and this craze became even more popular by the 1890s. It was only natural for M. Morin to build a real pagoda as a lavish and fashionable statement next door to the couple’s house in Paris. Pieces were shipped from Asia and reassembled in Paris under the design and direction of Alexandre Marcel (1860-1928) at 57 bis, rue de Babylone on the corner with rue Monsieur in the 7th arrondissement. Built in the middle of a residential neighborhood it boasted all things Japanese including stone figures of dragons, lions, buddhas and birds as well as distinctive Asian-style rooflines. In 1930 it became a 400-seat cinema movie theatre that became an art-house cinema in the 1970s and, after 85 years of operation, closed its doors in 2015. SOURCE: 1000 Buildings of Paris, Kathy Borrus, Black Dog & Leventhal Publishers, New York, 2003, p. 275 and http://cinematreasures.org/theaters/6906 – retrieved January 4, 2023.
June 1984. Eiffel Tower, Paris, 7th arr., France. 15%June 1984. Lucerne, Switzerland. 6.12mb 99% (10)March 2002. Château de Versailles, Versailles, France. 140kb 65%March 1992. Katschhof, Aachen, Germany 7.77mb 74%
A fruit and vegetable market on the Katschhof square (above) in Aachen, Germany, in March 1992 was held the day before Ash Wednesday. The historic square has Aachen Cathedral on one side and the town hall on the other side and is brought to life during its numerous festivals, markets, and events. In Carolingian history, the Katschhof represented the connection between Charlemagne’s palace hall and his St. Mary’s Church with his throne and tomb. In 2014 it was announced by a team of scientists who started to study the tomb’s bones and bone fragments in 1988 that if they are those of Charlemagne (747-814), the 66-year-old Holy Roman Emperor was tall and thin. See- https://www.archaeology.org/news/1782-140131-charlemagne-bones-sarcophagus – retrieved October 6, 2023.
March 2002. The Louvre (Statue of Winged Victory, c. 200 BCE), Paris. France. 660kb.June 1984. Vienna, Austria. 15%July 1984. Dachau Concentration Camp, Upper Bavaria, Southern Germany. 316 kbJuly 1984. Dachau Concentration Camp. Sculpture memorial to Dachau prisoners from 1933 to 1945 by Yugoslav artist Nandor Glid (1924-1997). Glid was a Holocaust survivor who had been a forced laborer and whose father and most of his family were murdered in Auschwitz. July 1984. Neuschwanstein Castle (1869-1886), Hohenschwangau, Germany. 62% 7.85 mbFebruary 1992. Wijde Heisteeg & Singel, Amsterdam, the Netherlands. 22%February 1992. Tournai, Belgium. Dating from the late 1100s, These houses in Belgium are among the oldest surviving domiciles in Europe. 7.94mb87%February 1992. World War I trenches at Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial have not been altered since 1919. This was the site of fierce fighting on July 1, 1916. The Royal Newfoundland Regiment experienced the battle’s worst. From the neighboring vilage of Beaumont, a battalion and a division of Scottish soldiers joined the combat. By the end of the day 90% of these men were dead.
Beaumont Hamel – Newfoundlanders on the Somme (Pt. 1 of 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_mY_-3sf3k – retrieved November 6, 2024. February 1992. Beaumont-Hamel. Reconstructed trenches. February 1992. Rubens House, 1610. Antwerp, Belgium 7.39mb 99% (20)
A 10-minute walk from the city center, the Rubens House (Rubenshuis in Dutch) is an older Flemish house transformed into an Italian palazzo by the artist, Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) in 1610. Married that year to his first wife Isabella Brandt (1591-1626), Rubens purchased and renovated the house on today’s Wapper street whose layout included the couple’s home, the artist’s studio, a monumental portico and interior courtyard (pictured above). The courtyard also opens into the Baroque garden designed by Rubens. Isabella and Peter Paul Rubens had three children together when Isabella died of the plague at 34 years old. Centuries later, in 1937, Antwerp bought the house and opened it to the public in 1946.
May 2005. The Château de Maintenon in France was built between the 13 and 18th centuries. The square keep was built in the 13th century. The round towers were built later. In the early 16th century it was purchased by Jean Cottereau, the treasurer of Louis XII (1462-1515) and rebuilt by Madame de Maintenon (1635-1719), the mistress and then second spouse of Louis XIV, who purchased it in 1674. “Madame de Maintenon knows how to love,” the king said, “There would be great pleasure in being loved by her.” The château’s wings frame a cour d’honneur, beyond which is a moat filled by waters of the Eure. Beyond is the parterre and park. At the far end of the gardens is an aqueduct crossing the Canal de l’Eure. No official document exists of what was the secret marriage of King Louis XIV and his mistress, but historians accept that it occurred sometime between October 1683 and January 1684. Later, the château was a favorite place of writer François-René de Chateaubriand (1768-1848) who enjoyed its special ambiance.July 1984. Munich Germany. Marienplatz. March 2002. Paris Square d’Estienne d’Orves. (9th arr.) 404 kb 65%June 1984. “Tresors de l’ancien Nigéria,” Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, May 16 – July 23, 1984. Paris. 15%June 1984. Grand’ Place, Brussels, Belgium. Buildings in the photograph include Le Roy d’Espagne, La Brouette, Le Sac, La Louve, Le Cornet and Le Renard. The construction of the Grand’ Place took place over 600 years from the 1000’s to the 1600’s. In 1695, during the Nine Years’ War (1688-1697), most of the square was destroyed during the bombardment of Brussels by French troops. The buildings were rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries giving the square its appearance today. In 1998 the Grand’ Place was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the world’s most beautiful squares. 1.03mbJune 1984. Hotel Ambassador, Kärntner Straße 22, Neuer Markt 5, Wien (Vienna). January 1993. Red Square, Moscow, Russia. January 1993. View of upper hall of Belorusskaya (Belarus) Metro Station (Koltsevaya Line) (Moscow, Russia). Below the ceiling’s molding in a passageway is a statue of Belarussian partisans during World War II who opposed Nazi Germany from 1941 until 1944. In their military and political resistance, the partisans took direction from Moscow. 1/1993 35%January 1993. Lenin’s Tomb, Moscow, Russia. It is the mausoleum for Soviet leader Vladimir Lenin (1870-1924) whose preserved body has been on public display since shortly after his death in January 1924. Just days after Lenin’s death, Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev (1873-1949) was given the task to build a structure suitable for viewing the body by mourners. In 1930, a new mausoleum was designed by Shchusev and is the structure seen today made of marble, porphyry, granite, and labradorite. From 1953 to 1961 the embalmed body of Joseph Stalin (1878-1953) was in this mausoleum next to Lenin but removed by Nikita Khrushchev (1894-1971) and buried in the nearby Kremlin Wall national cemetery. While incorporating elements of various ancient world mausoleums, the tomb’s architectural style is an experiment in early 20th century Constructivism. 35%January 1993. GUM department store, Moscow, Russia. GUM is the main department store in cities of the former Soviet Union and during the Soviet period (until 1991) was known as the State Department Store with one vendor – the State. The most famous GUM is this store facing Red Square. Built in 1890-93 by architect Alexander Pomerantsev (1849-1918) and engineer Vladimir Shukhov (1853-1939) as the Upper Trading Rows, by the time of the Russian Revolution of 1917, the building contained some 1,200 stores. The trapezoid-shaped building with a steel framework and glass roof is Moscow’s Crystal Palace (London,1851) and, in turn, influenced parts of La Samaritaine department store (Paris, 1907). The site of GUM had been a designed trade area since the time of Catherine II of Russia (1729-1796) though its early structures by Italian architect Giacomo Quarenghi (1744-1817) were destroyed in the 1812 Fire of Moscow which accompanied Napoleon’s invasion. After the Revolution of 1917, GUM was nationalized but closed in 1928 and converted to office space by Stalin. It did not reopen as a consumer goods store until after 1953. 50%. January 1993. Novoslobodskaya station (Ring Line), Moscow, Russia. The station with its 32 stained glass panel decorations opened on January 30, 1952. It is on the Koltsevaya Line, between Belorusskaya and Prospekt Mira stations. Though the man in the middle is an American tourist, the others are Russians. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, there was a fire sale on its effects, including old uniforms. 55% (30)January 1993. Red Square, Moscow, Russia. Left to right: State Historical Museum. GUM store. 50%January 1993. Saint Basil’s Cathedral (1555-1561), Red Square, Moscow, Russia. The Orthodox church was constructed by order of Ivan the Terrible (1530-1584). January 1993. Church on the Spilled Blood (1883-1907), Saint Petersburg, Russia. The Church of the Resurrection of Jesus Christ in Saint Petersburg, Russia, stands on the site where Czar Alexander II (1818-1881) was assassinated in March 1881. The Russian Revival building was built between 1883 and 1907 by the Romanov Imperial family as a memorial to the slain czar. Though Alexander II freed the serfs in 1861 and abolished capital punishment, his government remained autocratic and repressed liberalizing political forces. Starting in 1879 the czar became the focus for a number of attacks when he was finally murdered in March 1881. That day Alexander II was riding close to the Griboyedov canal when a bomb was tossed beneath his carriage. One of the czar’s Cossack guards was killed and several others injured but the czar emerged unharmed. Immediately, a second, suicide bomber, Ignatiy Grinevitsky, threw a bomb at close range that landed at the czar’s feet and exploded. Mortally wounded, Alexander II was whisked to the Winter Palace (today’s Hermitage) about a mile away where he bled to death. The terrorist group called The People’s Will (“Narodnaya Volya”) claimed responsibility for the elaborate attack. They were a group of radicals and reformers seeking liberty and land reforms from the autocratic regime. Though Alexander II had signed an order creating a Duma, or parliament, his son and successor, Alexander III (1845-1894) withdrew it and began to suppress anew civil liberties using the Okhrana or Imperial Russian secret police. The church is a building rich in decoration and one of St. Petersburg’s best known landmarks. 50% see – See – http://www.saint-petersburg.com/rivers-and-canals/griboedov-canal/ – retrieved January 18, 2024.January 1993. Detsky Mir, Lubyanka Square, Moscow, Russia. On Lubyanka Square in central Moscow is “Detsky Mir” (“Children’s World”), Russia’s largest toy and children’s goods store. It took architect Alexey Nikolayevich Dushkin (1904-1977), Moscow Metro and railways architect, three years to build Detsky Mir in its eclectic mix of post-Stalin Soviet-era architectural styles. The children’s wonderland opened on June 6, 1957. Its neighbor was, curiously, a massive KGB headquarters that had its 15-ton monument to its Bolshevik revolutionary founder, Felix Dzerzhinsky (1877-1926), in the middle of the square. Dzerzhinsky was one of the architects of the Red Terror and de-Cossackization. In January 1993 the statue, sculpted in 1958 by Yevgeny Vuchetich (1908-1974), had been torn down leaving an empty pedestal. Today the pedestal, too, is gone. Detsky Mir was the first building in the Soviet Union to install escalators and in 2015, after nearly a decade-long reconstruction, reopened its doors as Russia’s central children’s store. 60% see – https://www.rbth.com/history/335795-soviet-children-store-detsky-mir http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/2273462.stmJanuary 1993. Bolshoi Theatre (1825), Moscow, Russia. The Bolshoi (“Big”) Theatre opened on January 18, 1825. The main building of the theatre, rebuilt and renovated several times during its history, is a landmark of Moscow and Russia. It was originally designed by architect Joseph Bové (1784-1834) who supervised the Moscow reconstruction after the Fire of 1812 during the Napoleonic Wars. When Czar Alexander I (1777-1825) visited the city he decreed that Moscow buildings should be only in pale, limited colors, of which the Bolshoi Theatre building is one. The chariot drawn by four horses (“quadriga”) atop the portico pediment was sculpted by Russian sculptor Peter Clodt von Jürgensburg (1805-1867). Tchaikovsky’s ballet Swan Lake premiered at the Bolshoi in March 1877. The Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera in Moscow, Russia,is one of the oldest and most famous such theatre companies in the world. 50%May 2005. Deb and me at Château de Chenonceau in France. The chateau was famously occupied by Diane de Poitiers (1500-1566), the mistress of the King of France, Henry II (1519-1559), who gifted it to the legendary beauty. Diane de Poitiers is the one who commissioned the bridge to be built across the river and planted its gardens. When the king was suddenly killed in a ceremonial jousting match, Queen Catherine de’ Medici (1519-1589) who married Henry II in 1533 and would have three sons become of King of France in succession over the next 30 years, quickly took over Chenonceau and expelled Diane.Diane de Poitiers at 25 years old by Jean Clouet (1480-1541). May 2005. Château de Chenonceau (16th century), France. The château was built in 1514–1522 on the foundations of an old mill and was extended over the river Cher in stages – first, its bridge (1556-59) and then its gallery (1570-76). These were designed, respectively, by architects Philibert de l’Orme (1514-1570) and Jean Bullant (1515-1578). 845 kb. May 2005. Château de Chenonceau (16th century), France. May 2005. Musee d’Orsay, Paris. Going in to see Le néo-impressionnisme, de Seurat à Paul Klee, from March 15 to July 10, 2005. The large show made clear to me that there may be many disciples – here, painters of trendy 1890’s Pointillism – but few masters. 65%May 2005. Pontlevoy Abbey is a former Benedictine abbey founded in the 11th century by a local knight in the town of Pontlevoy in the Loire Valley. The Gothic church was built at this time. In the early 17th century Cardinal Richelieu (1585-1642) was named abbot. It was no honorary title for his “Red Eminence.” In the 1640’s Richelieu had the buildings updated and repaired and re-enforced the monks’ numbers. By the 1770s, a small monastery community was running a school when King Louis XVI (1754-1793) ascended the throne. The king made the school one of France’s royal military academies which lasted until the French Revolution. The huge cedar was planted in 1776 to honor the new King Louis XVI. 65%May 2005. Debbie at Château de Versailles. Courtyard. 65%May 2005. Interior, St. Pierre Gothic Church, Pontlevoy, France. The church is over 1000 years old. 65%May 2005. Château de Versailles. Parterre du Midi. (40)July 1984. Florence, Italy. Michelangelo’s David, created in c. 1501-1504, has been in the Galleria dell’Accademia since 1873, The biblical figure of David came to symbolize the defense of civil liberties embodied in the 1494 constitution of the Republic of Florence, an independent city-state threatened on all sides by more powerful rival states and by the political aspirations of the Medici family.July 1984. Pazzi Chapel, Florence, Italy. Andrea Pazzi, whose fortune was second only to the Medici, put together the money to build this chapel in 1429. Filippo Brunelleschi (1377-1446) is believed to be responsible for its geometrical design and whose construction began in 1442. It was completed in 1478. The Pazzi Chapel is considered to be an early Renaissance masterpiece built in the cloister on the south side of the new Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce which was consecrated in 1443. This was one of the first places I came to visit when I arrived in Florence but it was closed for repairs and this is as close as I could get.
Pazzi Chapel outside Church of Santa Croce—Florence, Italy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmCaVAKlB2Y – retrieved November 6, 2024. July 1984. Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy, is the one bridge to have been spared destruction in World War II. A bridge has crossed the Arno at this point since Ancient Roman times. 43%July 1984. In Assisi, Italy, traveling with my Canadian friends. July 1985. The bridge above Nicosia, Sicily was built by Arabs 1000 years ago during the Emirate of Sicily, an Islamic Kingdom, that ruled on the island of Sicily between 831 and 1091. I am with my cousin Filippo. I traced my genealogy on my mother’s mother’s side going back in Italy in a direct unbroken line into the 16th century. July 1985. Torino (Turin), Italy. July 1985. Torino, Italy, visiting with family. My cousin Filippo in the middle was an engineer who was acting president of the Politecnico di Torino at that time. September 1993. Gislebertus (active 1120-1135), Autun, France. The artist carried out the decoration of Autun cathedral including these capitals. The three kings sleep under their counterpane touched by an angel’s single finger. When the artist’s decoration of the cathedral of Autun was completed around 1135 church architecture was beginning its transition to the Gothic, a style that would mark the glory of medieval French architecture (including Notre Dame de Paris in 1163) for the next 250 years. 1.44mbSeptember 1993. Vézelay, France. It took 24 years for me to get here. I learned about this Burgundian hilltown’s famous Romanesque Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine built in 1120 from Kenneth Clark’s Civilisation book and TV series in 1969. I wanted to visit here in 1985 as a sidetrip from Dijon where I was staying, but it was not direct. Finally, in 1993, we rented a car and drove here staying at this relais. One afternoon we had a special dining experience at restaurant L’Espérance in the nearby Vézelay countryside. Within the restaurant’s easy formal ambiance, graceful and precise service and supra-creative food courses, I learned what it means to dine in a 3-star Michelin restaurant — able to order, have prepared and served, appreciate and eat a culinary work of art — and why Marc Meneau (1943-2020), who oversaw it all and graciously received our thanks and congratulations afterwards, was one of the world’s great chefs.September 1993. Vézelay Abbey church, Vézelay, France. Statue of St Bernard of Clairvaux (1090-1153) preaching the Second Crusade at Easter, March 31, 1146, in front of French King Louis VII (1120-1180) and his young wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine (c.1126-1204). Bernard’s sermon did not survive, but a contemporary account described his voice as “{ringing) out across the meadow like a celestial organ” such that when he finished a large crowd enlisted en masse for what would be a disastrous string of defeats for Christendom in the East. St. Bernard is an important saint. As a young man from a wealthy family, he was intelligent, high strung, and good looking. When he chose to be a monk it was somewhat unusual though perhaps less so if he chose one of the established and wealthy monasteries. Instead, a passionate and headstrong Bernard chose a new (1098) and absolutely poor one called Cîteaux which frankly horrified his family. Like St. Francis of Assisi a century later in Italy, the monks wanted to live the gospel more literally, in this case, via St. Benedict’s rule but their enthusiasm was not met by new recruits. In 1113 Bernard’s charismatic personality famously attracted 30 of Burgundy’s finest young men into the new monastery of Cîteaux and, virtually overnight, prospered this religious house and its life there. “[Bernard’s] first and greatest miracle was himself,” wrote historian Christopher Holdsworth in 2012. Cîteaux’s co-founder, English Saint Stephen Harding (1050-1134) was abbot at Bernard’s arrival. With Harding’s blessing, the new monks set out to found other communities based on Bernard’s example on behalf of Benedictine tradition, which started a fashion among young men so that the 12th century is called “the Cistercian century.” Bernard with 12 companions set out and founded his monastery, Clairvaux – the “Valley of Light.” This work was not easy and there was every privation to endure but if Bernard fell ill from his efforts he grew in wisdom as an abbot and became sought out on his day’s issues of church and state. Bernard naturally held strong views and did not hold back in expressing them. His wit could be devastating. Bernard was an ardent advocate of the Hildebrand reforms. These were church reforms spearheaded by Pope Gregory VII (formerly Cardinal Hildebrand) that focused on combating simony (buying and selling of church offices), enforcing clerical celibacy, and challenging those secular bureaucrats who would appoint church officials (so-called lay investiture). Bernard particularly supported reforms aimed to purify the clergy, enhance their private and public moral standing, and strengthen the Church’s independence from control of any secular kingdoms. The unity of medieval Christendom was hardly without its problems – the 12th century was rife with schism at every level of elite society from popes to kings to princes and bishops, including a papal schism. It was only in 1139 at the Second Council of the Lateran in which Bernard assisted that adherents of the anti-pope were definitively condemned. Bernard also bumped heads with the wealthy and influential monks of Cluny, though he was friends with its abbot and dismissed Peter Abelard as an intellectual bumpkin playing to the marketplace. In 1142 the pope imposed the duty on Bernard to preach the Second Crusade which boomeranged back to stain Bernard’s reputation in his last years. He died on August 20, 1153 which became his feast day, was canonized in 1174, and named a “Doctor of the Church” in 1830. Following Bernard’s death, in 1166, exiled archbishop of Canterbury Thomas Becket (1118-1170) chose Vézelay for his Whitsunday sermon where he threatened the English King Henry II with excommunication as he excommunicated the king’s main supporters while, in 1190 at Vézelay, Richard the Lionheart of England (1157-1199) and King Philippe Auguste (1165-1223) of France met and spent three months at the abbey before setting out on the Third Crusade. Scan_20220520 (61) (1) (1)
Yonne : le célèbre chef triplement étoilé Marc Meneau est mort https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uT07LxKhhiA – retrieved November 5, 2024. July 1984. The Forum, Rome. It was a very hot day. The three columns are ruins in the distance are from the Temple of the Dioscuri who are the mythological twin sons (“Gemini”) of Jupiter (Zeus) and Leda. The cult came to Rome from Greece via Sicily where Greek culture was foundational. Statues at the House of the Vestals. July 1984. St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City, Rome, Italy. July 1984. Trying on eyewear at a sidewalk vendor, Rome, Italy. July 1984. Colosseum from Via Sacra with columns and wall of the Temple of Venus and Roma. The Temple was erected in 121 under Emperor Hadrian (76-138) and inaugurated by him in 135. The building was finished in 141 by Emperor Antoninus Pius (86-161). The Colosseum held between 50,000 and 85,000 spectators. Its construction began in 72 under Emperor Vespasian (9-79) and was completed in 80 A.D. under Emperor Titus (39–81).May 1983. Colosseum, Rome. May 1983. Trevi Fountain, Rome.
Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita is a 1960 Italian film that features an ensemble cast starring Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg. The scene in the Trevi Fountain was shot in late January according to Anita Ekberg. Marcello Rubini (Mastroianni) is a tabloid journalist in Rome who goes on a fruitless search for its sweet life (la dolce vita). The character of Paparazzo, the news photographer (played by Walter Santesso) is the origin of the word paparazzi to describe intrusive celebrity photographers.https://youtu.be/The8Xi6fKOE?si=UOqLebtqxBOmi3hi – retrieved January 28, 2026.
“The tradition is that you throw ONE coin over your shoulder if you wanna come back to Italy, TWO coins for romance, or THREE coins if you want to get married…” https://www.youtube.com/shorts/31p153LmFCI – retrieved November 7, 2024.
Filmed in De Luxe color and Cinemascope, Sol Siegel’s “Three Coins in A Fountain” in 1954 from 20th Century-Fox follows three American women who find romance in Rome. Shot on location in Italy, the film won Academy Awards for Best Cinematography (Milton Krasner) and Best Song (Jule Styne and Sammy Cahn) and, though a thin story, was an enormous box office entertainment. Nominated for Best Picture, the rom-com starred Dorothy McGuire, Maggie McNamara, Jean Peters, Rossano Brazzi, Louis Jourdan and Clifton Webb and, reviewed by Variety, was called a film that “has warmth, humor, a rich dose of romance and almost incredible pictorial appeal.” https://youtu.be/iTntN9xIVHI?si=TuggQUCShk5gdpjl – retrieved January 28, 2026. September 1993. German tourists. Cluny Abbey, Cluny, Saône-et-Loire. A highly influential Benedictine abbey started in 910 in Cluny, its third and final church was started in 1088 by abbot Hugh of Semur (1024–1109). It became the largest church building in Europe and remained so until the 16th century, when the new St. Peter’s Basilica was built in Rome. Hézelon de Liège was Cluny’s architect. 1.43mbSeptember 1993. Château de Bussy-Rabutin is in the commune of Bussy-le-Grand, in the Côte-d’Or department, Bourgogne, about 37 miles (one hour by car) northwest of Dijon. The castle was founded in the 12th century by Renaudin de Bussy and rebuilt in the 14th century, The Renaissance galleries were added in the 1520s. It was again altered during the reigns of Henri II (1547–1559) and Louis XIII (1610–1643). Roger de Rabutin, Comte de Bussy (1618–1693) fell into disgrace at court and was ordered by Louis XIV to self-exile at this estate. Here Bussy-Rabutin wrote his Histoire amoureuse des Gaules, an account of various love affairs at court, which embroiled the author in more scandal. He was sent to the Bastille and released on condition that he return to self-exile and live there in silence which he did for the next 17 years. Bussy -Rabutin died at the chateau in 1693. His collection of portraits of historical and contemporary French figures are a highlight of a tour of the chateau as they serve to fuel the various stories he told. The chateau was restored in the 19th century and acquired by the French state in 1929.September 1993. Palais Jacques Coeur (completed 1453), Bourges, France. June 1984. Fontaine des Mers, Place de la Concorde, Paris. Two monumental fountains in this largest square in Paris were designed by Jacques Ignace Hittorff (1792-1867) and completed in 1840.
Fontaine des Mers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mFXE5w2bZwMay 2005. Medici Fountain (1630), Luxembourg Gardens, Paris, France. Along with a Left Bank palace built for Marie de’ Medici (1575-1642) by French architect Salomon de Brosse (1571-1626) between 1623 and 1630, the fountain and grotto was also made at this time. It was likely the work of Tommaso Francini (1571-1651), a water works engineeer from Italy who emigrated to France in 1598 by invitation of Henry IV (1553-1610), the eventual husband (in 1600) of Marie de’ Medici. By the 19th century the fountain had had a series of owners and fell into disrepair hastened by the relocation of the court to Versailles and changing tastes as well as the eventual upheaval of the French Revolution. Attention began to paid to it again under Napoleon I (1769-1826) who had the grotto restored. By the mid 1850s the old orangerie behind the fountain was demolished as were its adjoining arcades. When Baron Haussmann (1809-1891) looked to put in Rue de Medicis in 1864 the fountain was moved about 90 feet further into the park. Its simple basin and water spout was replaced with an elongated basin and, in 1866, a sculpture of a giant Polyphemus surprising lovers Acis and Galatea by Auguste Ottin (1811-1890) was added to the fountain. A different fountain, the Fontaine de Léda, built in 1806 under Napoleon and relocated from another neighborhood, was placed directly behind the Medici Fountain that created mutually supporting walls of stone. 2.49 mbMarch 2002. Pont Marie (1635), Paris, France. Looking from the Île Saint-Louis to the Right Bank. It was the first bridge built after the aristocracy clamored for development of the island to expand their neighborhood in the early 17th century. The stone bridge is one of the oldest in Paris. The Pont-de-la-Tournelle which continued the Pont-Marie was completed in 1654 and connected the Île Saint-Louis to the Left Bank. Houses used to be built on the bridge. The structure is substantially the same since the 18th century. Each of the pedimented arches of the Pont Marie is unique with niches in abutments that have always stood empty. June 1985. Beaune, France. The man in the middle told me he had been a French soldier in combat in World War I (1914-1918). (50)February 1992. Me in Prüm, Westeifel in far western Germany. It was the site of Prüm (Benedictine) Abbey founded in the 8th century. Behind me is Sankt-Salvator-Basilika built in 1721. The remaining monastery buildings adjacent to it are now a high school. Mentioned by Pepin (714-768) in the deed of 762, the church houses the relic of the sandals of Jesus Christ. Pepin received them as a gift from the pope. Over the next centuries, the monastery became wealthy though it had its ups and downs. While its abbot was a prince in the Holy Roman Empire and ruled over dozens of towns, villages and hamlets, outside secular powers increasingly looked to take it over. Despite the monastery’s internal strife and external pressures even from the pope, its more than 50 abbots through history refused to submit until the late 16th century. Controlled afterward by the archbishops-electors of Trier, the abbey once again flourished until the French Revolution. In 1794 Prümwas occupied by French troops and annexed to France. Soon after, the monastery was dissolved by Napoleon Bonaparte and its assets sold. In the course of the 19th century, Prüm became part of modern Germany in the State of Rhineland-Palatinate. During World War II, most of the town was destroyed by bombing and ground fighting. June 1984. Notre Dame de Paris.
February 1992. Situated along the road to Lille is the chapel of the Ladrerie du Val d’Orcq in Tournai, Belgium, whose chevet (apse) was built in 1153. The church was enlarged in the 1690’s. Made of rubble stone and covered with a tiled roof resting on stone corbels, the chapel has retained its original appearance and is an active parish today. The charming Romanesque building bears witness to a large medieval leper colony called ‘Bonne Maison du Val’ that was dependent on the Tournai magistrate and cathedral chapter of canons and destroyed under Louis XIV (1638-1715). The small open portal in the west façade is characterized by its harped jambs and basket-handle arch and is surmounted by a niche of the same shape. The roof of the nave is crowned by a square bell tower with a pyramidal roof. The sanctuary was classified as an official historic monument in 1936.September 1993. Me in Nevers, France, at the Loire River next to its 12th century ramparts. July 1984. Pitter Keller, Salzburg, Austria. Dr. Len Biallas and his wife Martha took me there one night after a day of car touring for dinner and festivity. July 1984. Steps directly above the “Sound of Music” steps in the Mirabell Palace Gardens. Salzburg, Austria. 3.12mbJuly 1984. Part of the waterpark at Schloss Hellbrunn near Morzg south of Salzburg, Austria. I am standing at left with a bearded Dr. Len Biallas and his wife Martha seated nearby. The palace was built in 1613–19 by the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg and used as a daytime villa. It is a ten-minute car ride or less than one hour’s walk from Salzburg’s city center. The schloss is famous for its jeux d’eau (watergames) on the grounds, including this one where, as shown, water sprays out of the stone seats of guests who would be dining at the stone table to the amusement hopefully of all. Greek and Roman mythology plays a main role in the fountains which is expressive to the Mannerist zeitgeist. July 1984. Halstaat, Austria on the Hallstätter See and the steep slopes of the Dachstein massif. The town lies on the national road linking Salzburg and Graz in the Salzkammergut region. July 1984. Piazzetta San Marco, Venice, Italy. Between the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Biblioteca Marciana (St. Mark’s library), Piazzetta San Marco connects the Piazza S. Marco to the lagoon. The original pair of granite columns were erected in 1268 (these are copies). Atop one is St. Theodore and the other is the winged lion, the symbol of St. Mark. Across the lagoon is the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore designed by Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) and built between 1566 and 1610. This photograph was taken from the upper story of St. Mark’s Basilica. July 1984. Grand Canal from Rialto Bridge, Venice, Italy. July 1984. Newlyweds on the Rilato Bridge in Venice, Italy. I was taking photographs from the oldest bridge in Venice (built between 1588-1591) when I recognized by happenstance a fellow teacher from Loyola Academy standing there. Phil was with his wife and they were on their honeymoon. January 1993, Moscow, Russia.Just east of the Great Kremlin Palace in Moscow, Russia, is Cathedrals Square. Facing the river is Assumption Cathedral. The church was the coronation cathedral of the czars and the burial place of the patriarchs. In 1812, French Enlightenment dictator Napoleon (1769-1821) used the church as animal stables and its religious icons were used as firewood to burn the city. The invading marauders also stole over 1000 pounds of gold and silver from this church. Built by Ridolfo “Aristotele” Fioravanti of Bologna (c. 1415- c. 1486) between 1475 and 1479, the five-dome, six-column structure is the largest church in the Kremlin. Its architectural style is traditional Russian from the Vladimir-Suzdal princedom (1157–1331) with its stylish curved zakomara gables at the tops of the walls and the “column belt’ at midwall. Though a highly rational design the Italian renaissance architect harmonized its proportions to be light and airy throughout. The frescos are a later addition (1500 and 1642). January 1993. Moscow, Russia. Assumption Cathedral. Northern portal. The church was thoroughly restored in in the 1890’s and 1910’s. Following the 1917 Russian Revolution, the new Bolshevik government closed all churches in the Moscow Kremlin, and converted the cathedral into a museum. Vladimir Lenin permitted its final Easter service to be held in 1918. In 1991 the church was fully restored to the Russian Orthodox Church. January 1993. Moscow, Russia. Eleven-domed Church of the Nativity, the oldest church inside the Kremlin (1394), and the Church of the Deposition of the Robe (Timia Esthita) of the Holy Virgin (1486). Both in Cathedrals Square and now part of the Kremlin Museums. Once 11 churches stood in the Kremlin. Today there are six. The Robe of the Theotokos (“Mother of God”) entered history in 473 A.D. and is believed to have protected 9th century Constantinople and 15th century Moscow from attacks. The relic is maintained today in a museum in Zugdidi in Western Georgia. Originally, the Church of the Deposition of the Robe served as the private chapel of the Patriarch of Moscow and all Rus’. During the mid-17th century, the Russian royal family took it over.January 1993. Moscow, Russia. The Archangel Cathedral named for St. Michael the Archangel. It was built between 1505 and 1509 by Alevisio Novi of Milan invited to work in Moscow by Ivan III of Russia (1440-1505). The architect’s first and principal work in Moscow was the Archangel Cathedral which was the burial place of Muscovite rulers from Ivan Kalita (c. 1288-c.1341) to Aleksey MIkhailovich (1629-1676). The cathedral’s elaborate Northern Italian Renaissance decorative detail was extensively copied throughout 16th-century Russia. Inside the church the icon of the archangel Michael is attributed to Andrei Rublev (c. 1360- c. 1430). January 1993. Me at the door of the Archangel Cathedral, Kremlin, Moscow, Russia. January 1993. Moskovskaya Ploshchad (Moscow Square) is a major square in St. Petersburg (formerly Leningrad) in Russia. The House of Soviets stands in the square. Built between 1936 and 1941 the building has been described by Stephen Sennott (Encyclopedia of Twentieth Century Architecture, 2004) as “the purest form of totalitarian monumentality.” The architect was Noy Trotsky (1895-1940) who adapted his constructivism to Stalin’s preferred neoclassicism. Also planned for the square was a Palace of Youth, a Palace of the Red Army and Navy, and triumphal arches but only the House of Soviets was built as development was interrupted by the onset of World War II. In front of the House of Soviets stands a monument to Lenin on a granite pedestal placed in the square in 1970. The House of Soviets was constructed to accommodate the Soviet of People’s Deputies, at the time the main legislative body of the city. It is the largest office building in St. Petersburg and one of the largest in Russia. Its main facade is 220 meters long and 50 meters high. The height of the emblem of the RSFSR (Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic) on the roof of the building is 11 meters. This House of Soviets was on the front line when the Nazis invaded and besieged the city in 1941.January 1993. Palace Square, St. Petersburg, Russia. The Winter Palace (1754-1762) was the winter residence of the czars until the early 20th century. It was designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700-1771), an Italian architect born in Paris who moved to St. Petersburg in 1716. Rastrelli also designed Smolny Convent (1748-1764) in St. Petersburg. The interior has been redone several times by various architects. In the center of the square rises the Alexander Column designed by Auguste de Montferrand (1786-1858) and constructed between 1830 and 1834 as the architect was in the midst of erecting St. Isaac’s Cathedral (1816–1858). The red Finnish granite column and base rises 154 foot in the air and commemorates Russia’s victory over Napoleon in the War of 1812. It weighs around 700 tons. The angel at the top has the face of Czar Alexander I (1777-1825) and symbolizes peace in Europe following the defeat of Napoleon. To the Czar’s ordinary subjects, the Winter Palace was seen as a symbol of Imperial power and has been at the center of some of Russia’s most momentous events in modern history. Three stand out as watersheds in Russian history – namely, the Bloody Sunday massacre in 1905; the opening of the first State Duma in 1906; and the capture of the palace by revolutionaries and declaration of it as part of the Hermitage public museums in 1917.January 1993. Street scene, Russia. january 1993. Russia right after the fall of the USSR (1917-1992). January 1993. Catherine Palace, royal palace of Catherine the Great (1729-1796) in Tsarskoe Selo (“Tsar’s Village”), today Pushkin, near St. Petersburg, Russia. Pushkin is 15 miles south of St. Petersburg. Catherine the Great used the palace every summer and used architect Charles Cameron (1745-1812) to remodel some of the rooms in neoclassic style. Much of the palace and its contents were lost in World War II with restoration slowly taking place afterwards. The palace was begun in 1718 by Johann Friedrich Braunstein (d. after 1718) built for Catherine I Alekseevna Mikhailova (1684-1727), second wife and consort of Peter the Great (1672-1725). She succeeded him as Empress of Russia, ruling from 1725 until her death in 1727. During the reign of Peter the Great’s daughter, Empress Elizabeth (1709-1762), Imperial architect Mikhail Zemtsov (1688-1743) designed a new palace with work beginning in 1744. In 1745, Zemtsov’s pupil, Andrey Vasilievich Kvasov (c.1720-c. 1770), working with Savva Ivanovich Chevakinsky (1709-c.1774), expanded the palace. It was completed by Rastrelli in a full-blown baroque style that included double columns and statuary along a 326-yard wide exterior. January 1993. Catherine Palace, Pushkin, Russia. 50%. September 1993. Palais du Tau, Reims: la Salle du Goliath. Palais du Tau was the palace of the Archbishop of Reims next to the cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims where the coronation of the kings of France took place. The palace is associated with the kings of France also since they stayed in the palace the night before the coronation ceremony and had a banquet in the palace afterwards. The first recorded coronation banquet was held at the palace in 990 and the last one in 1825. The chapel from 1207 has survived as the palace was rebuilt in Gothic style between 1498 and 1509. Jules Hardouin-Mansart (1646-1708) and Robert de Cotte (1656-1735) modified the palace to its present Baroque appearance between 1671 and 1710. December 1989. Haarlem, Netherlands. Smedestraat. In the background is the Grote Kerk or St.-Bavokerk. 2.01mb Scan_20250110 (4)December 1989. Musée de l’Œuvre-Notre-Dame, Strasbourg, France.December 1989. Barrage Vauban (1690) on River Ill, Petite France, Strasbourg, France. 1.86mbDecember 1989. Barrage Vauban (1690) on River Ill, Petite France, Strasbourg, France. 1.96 mb. The barrage built in pink Vosges sandstone is 390 foot long and has 13 arches. It was constructed by French engineer Jacques de Tirade (1646-1720) between 1686 and 1690 on the plans of his colleague, military engineer Vauban (1633-1707). Its main function was as a lock to raise the river’s water level in time of war so that land outside the city would become flooded and impassable to hostile forces. The Barrage Vauban was used for this tactic in the Franco-Prussian War in 1870. December 1989. A lunch to remember on a rainy afternoon in Beaune, France. 25%. Today it is Domaine des Vins.
May 2005. Houdan, France. The Houdan chicken is an old French breed of domestic chicken whose breeders became the royal chicken supplier to the French kings’ court at Versailles beginning with Louis XIII (1601-1643). With the onset of the railroads, it was recorded that in 1872-1873 more than 600,000 Houdan chickens were sold. During World War I, large breeders and the Houdan chicken almost completely disappeared from the scene. The breed was reintroduced in 1927. La Poularde is a gastronomique destination where we ate a memorable déjeuner that included the historic French repast. see – https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/houdan-chicken/ – retrieved March 5, 2025. 65% Scan_20210220 (56) (2).May 2005. Bièvres, France. We visited Bièvres about eight miles southwest of Paris because of its association with Symbolist artist Odilon Redon ( 1840-1916). We ate a delicious déjeuner at Tabac De Mairie, a sidewalk café at 2 Rue Léon Mignotte just outside this photograph to the left. The artist Redon and his wife Camille (née Falte, 1860-1925), were interred together in the cemetery at Bièvres. This Île-de France village ascends from a crossroads and the villagers remember the artist’s summer sojourns there after 1909. When Redon’s natal home of Peyrelebade was sold in 1897, he and Camille adopted Villa Juliette in Bièvres from Camille’s half-sister for their retreats from Paris. During World War I, Redon retreated into his native Southwest France for extended periods of time. But after his death he was brought to Bièvres. 65% Scan_20210220 (30) (2)
March 1992. Ash Wednesday. Sint-Baafs Kathedraal, Ghent. December 1989. Brugges, Belgium. The 272-foot-tall Belfort (belfry) from the 13th century is one of Europe’s oldest examples of medieval urban and public architecture. The tallest octagonal portion of the belfry was added in the 1480’s. In the 16th century, the tower received a carillon.1.66 mb Scan_20250110
May 2005. Western façade of Pontoise Cathédrale Saint-Maclou from Rue de la Coutellerie. The early 12th century apse is Romanesque with the mid-late-12th century vault of the ambulatory and the windows of the transept the beginning of Gothic. The flamboyant Gothic façade is 15th century. It was In 1525 that the north aisle of the church was replaced by a double aisle bordered by chapels and a portal was opened onto the Place du Grand-Martroy. In 1552 Pierre Lemercier (1552-1532), first of a prestigious family of Pontoise architects, undertook to complete the western façade tower by building the dome. In the 16th century the south aisle was bordered by a belt of chapels and large columns replaced thin medieval columns while the upper windows were rebuilt. In 1585, the pillars of the chancel were rebuilt. Saint-Maclou was about 700 years old when it became a cathedral in 1966 when Pontoise became a diocese. https://ville-pontoise.fr/la-cathedrale-saint-maclou– retrieved March 5, 2025. 1.33mb Scan_20210220 (6) (1)
September 1993, Chapel of the Apparitions, Paray-le-Monial, France. Paray-Le-Monial is in the Charolais-Brionnais region of France (South Burgundy) about equi-distant from Autun to the north, Lyon to the southeast and Clermont-Ferrand in the south west. A Benedictine abbey was founded in Paray-le-Monial in 973 (Cluny is about 30 miles to the east) and there are many existing Romanesque churches in the region. The Cluny monks were the lords of the town until 1789. While there are notable grandiose churches and former churches in town (Basilica of Paray-le-Monial, 12th century; Tour Saint-Nicolas, 16th century), Paray-le-Monial is an international pilgrimage site for La Chapelle des Apparitions on Rue Visitation at the Convent of the Visitation-Sainte-Marie where Saint Marguerite-Marie Alacoque (1647-1690) had her four great visions of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. From humble origins, Marguerite-Marie who grew up in nearby Verosvres felt called to the convent of the Visitation, an order of nuns of mostly aristocratic background, which she entered in June 1671. An order founded by the widowed Baroness Saint Jeanne de Chantal (1571-1641), the 40 nuns in Paray-le-Monial were dedicated to practical work of serving the sick and poor of which some of these nuns in Paray-le-Monial had no vocation and few to none much use for visionaries. Here at this place on December 27, 1673 (the feast of St. John the Apostle), Christ revealed in a vision His Sacred Heart to her. With each vision Christ communicated a specific message regarding his particular revelation. In late 1674 she was promised by Christ an understanding spiritual director and in 1675 was sent the shrewd and brilliant Père Saint Claude de la Colombière (1641-1682), a young Jesuit priest from Paris. Confirming Marguerite-Marie in her path, the confessor kept in contact with La Mère de Saumaise, the prudent and holy convent superior, who ordered Marguerite-Marie to write down to her her experiences in letters that exist today. In one letter Marguerite-Marie relates that Jesus told her that a faithful heavenly guardian angel has been placed by her side “who will accompany you everywhere and assist you in all your inner needs and who will prevent your enemy from taking advantage of all the faults into which he will believe to make you fall by his suggestions, which will return to his confusion” (“Ma fille, ne t’afflige pas, car je te veux donner un gardien fidèle qui t’accompagnera partout et t’assistera dans toutes tes nécessités intérieures et qui empêchera que ton ennemi ne se prévaudra point de toutes les fautes où il croira de te faire tomber par ses suggestions, qui retourneront à sa confusion.”) In this chapel, before the Blessed Sacrament honored on the altar, Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had her greatest vision in 1676, where Jesus presented his heart to her and called for a special feast to honor his heart to be on the Friday after Corpus Christi Sunday. By 1686 Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was novice mistress and she encouraged her young novices to draw pictures of the Sacred Heart and honor them on the altar. The rest of the convent gradually followed her example. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque died in 1690 at 43 years old. She was beatified in 1864 by pope Pius IX and canonized in 1920 by Benedict XV. (Claude de la Colombière was beatified in 1929 by Pius XI and canonized in 1992 by John Paul II). We spent two days there as pilgrims in Paray-le-Monial staying in lodgings with pilgrims from around the world directly across the street from this Chapel of Apparitions where Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque’s tomb is and where we attended Mass in French with mostly French people. 45%September 1993. Auxerre clock and belfry (15th century), Auxerre, France. Auxerre was a flourishing Gallo-Roman center called Autissiodorum. The first century Via Agrippa, a main road, ran through Auxerre and crossed the Yonne. It became a bishop’s seat in the 200’s and was a provincial capital of the Roman Empire. It became a cathedral town in the 400’s. A “modern” Auxerre developed in the 11-12th centuries defined and enfolded by a state-of-the-art fortified wall. The Clock Tower, in the Old Town, has been marking time since the 15th century – starting as a prison and then as a clock and belfry. Attached to the tower, a chamber hosts the clock’s mechanism which has worked since 1483, made by a clockmaker known only as “Jean.” The clock has a solar hand that goes around the face in 24 hours and a lunar hand which is three-quarters slow compared to the other. This gives the passerby both sun and moon times. Scan_20220520 (72) see – https://www.ot-auxerre.com/destination-lauxerrois/destination-history/must-see-monuments/the-clock-tower-ans-its-astronomical-clock/ – retrieved Aug. 20, 2025.September 1993. Abbey of Pontigny, France, 12th century, south view. September 1993. Abbey of Pontigny, France, 12th century, le chevet (apse).September 1993. Abbey of Pontigny, France, 12th century, north aisle.
FEATURE image: Notre Dame under re-construction, 2019.
N.B. Following more than five years of restorative work gathering artisans, donors, and planners from across the spectrum of global society, Notre Dame de Paris was gloriously re-opened at a celebratory dedication ceremony attended by the world’s dignitaries, including 40 heads of state, on December 8, 2024. Begun in 1163, Notre Dame was first dedicated at its completion in 1345.
By John P. Walsh, May 21, 2019.
Flames engulf Notre Dame de Paris in an early evening blaze on Monday, April 15, 2019. The fire left the 850-year-old Gothic cathedral standing, but with extensive structural damage.Hundreds of Paris firefighters battled the blaze for hours. First responders saved the cathedral though its timber roof, frame and spire crashed into the nave.
Fire broke out with 1,000 people inside the building
Notre Dame de Paris suffered a devastating fire on April 15, 2019 causing most of its roof and a 300-foot oak spire to collapse. The fire broke out during an early evening Mass when more than 1,000 people were in the cathedral which is the most touristic site in the center of the most touristic city in the world. The priest had been in the middle of reading that day’s Gospel of John. It was Holy Monday, the first day of Holy Week where the gospel tells the story of Mary pouring oil over the feet of Jesus which will anoint him for burial. Judas complains the perfume could have been sold and the money given to the poor.1
Pledges to rebuild
Notre Dame de Paris (“Our Lady of Paris” named in honor of the Virgin Mary) will take years, even decades, to rebuild and at great expense. This will be the case whether the edifice is simply restored or, as some have argued for, more creatively re-imagined for modern times. Whichever rebuilding vision or visions are followed – and there will be voices from many quarters involved in the restoration process ahead – French president Emmanuel Macron promised to complete its rebuilding by around 2024. Within 48 hours of the fire, donations poured in from around the world to rebuild the cathedral amounting to more than one billion dollars whose substantial amount may prove inadequate to fully cover rebuilding costs.2
Spotty maintenance for 850-year-old stone & wood building
While the fire’s precise ultimate cause is yet to be fully determined, the conditions surrounding the blaze are recognizably available: its spotty maintenance record over 10 centuries; complex 21st century renovation when fire broke out; the flammable oak “forest” of the medieval frame and roof; the challenges of fighting a fire owing to the cathedral’s size and location in central Paris. In a turn of irony, the cathedral roof that burned had been the 12th century builder’s largest monied investment.3
BRIEF ACCOUNT OF NOTRE DAME DE PARIS’S ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY
Notre Dame de Paris is one of Paris’s famous icons–an historical and religious treasure–and one of France’s great cathedrals along with Reims (which was nearly destroyed by fire during World War I) and Chartres (reconstructed after a fire in 1194). Others on any short list of great French cathedrals would include Amiens and Bourges, among others.
Notre Dame de Paris before the April 15, 2019 blaze. The cathedral is an important part of Paris’s identity and a tourist mecca.
After the April 15, 2020 fire: the cathedral’s great nave.Reims Cathedral on fire in World War I. The cathedral was the site of the coronation of French kings. The Gothic cathedral was virtually destroyed by bombing. After the war, the massive cathedral was completely rebuilt.
In 1163 when it became time to roof the superstructure of Notre Dame de Paris’s choir which was the first part of the church to be constructed, Paris bishop Maurice de Sully (1120-1196) provided 5000 French livres so that it could be richly and securely layered with lead. That and other of the Cathedral roof’s protective lead covering was stolen during the French Revolution in the eighteenth century.
The roof’s space and design provided a large part of the church’s riddle of secret passages -– including spiral staircases in the nave’s columns -– that served mainly for the needs of the religious complex’s operation and maintenance. Engineering of the 12th and 13th centuries proved resilient over nearly 1000 years — through hardly impervious to obsolescence and decay.
The 2019 blaze caused serious damage to the cathedral infrastructure. The flames left behind many questions to be answered about the medieval stone and timber building’s ultimate stability. History’s endurance for more than a church was at stake. Notre Dame de Paris is Paris Point Zero – the very center of the Île-de la-Cité, Paris, and all distances in France and, by extension, the world, are to be judged.4
Paris bishop Maurice de Sully (1120-1196). The bishop with his chapter of cathedral canons started the building of Notre Dame de Paris in 1163. The Gothic structure was mostly completed by 1250.Episodes from the Life of a Bishop Saint, c. 1500, oil on panel, 61.5 x 47 cm, Master of Giles, National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. The scene is from about 300 years after the death of Bishop de Sully yet captures the history of the archbishop on the front steps of his cathedral in Paris. Public Domain. see – https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.41596.html#provenance.
The Gothic Cathedral: A Quintessentially French Story
The French Gothic building project stretched from a Collégiale Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Laurent d’Eu (1186) in northeastern France to Toulouse Cathedral (13th century) in France’s Languedoc in the south.
The story of the Gothic cathedral, such as Notre Dame de Paris, is essentially a French story.
By the end of the Gothic Movement in the late 14th century, all corners of France -– and points between — possessed a Gothic church that displayed pointed arch, stained glass, and buttresses, some of them magnificently flying.
The style and power of Gothic art reflected not only a new theological thinking in the Renaissance of the 12th century but also an assertion of royal power.5
Notre Dame de Paris viewed from the other side of the Seine. The building’s flying buttresses support the nave and apse. The oak spire that was added in 1860 went up in flames like a torch and crashed into the nave in the April 15, 2019 fire.The Gothic church called Collégiale Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Laurent d’Eu is in northeastern France. looking to paris for inspiration, it was constructed between 1186 and 1240. Its subterranean crypt contains the tomb of Irish St. Laurence O’Toole (1128-1180). The saint’s heart is in Dublin at Christ Church Cathedral. The main impetus for the building of the new Gothic church was to accommodate pilgrims who came to venerate at O’Toole’s tomb.
Impact of the 13th century Crusades on Notre Dame de Paris
The Gothic age was characterized by international crusades of Western conquest to the Holy Land. The French king, Louis IX, or St. Louis (1214-1270) led its seventh manifestation from 1248 to 1254. Louis died while on its Eighth.
In the Holy Land the French king purchased relics to bring back to France, including the highly prized Crown of Thorns reputedly worn by Jesus Christ at his crucifixion. Relics were an investment that could pay off by generating pilgrimages.
In the April 2019 fire, scores of ordinary people and cathedral personnel formed a human chain to save the cathedral’s artifacts, most irreplaceable, and prevent their consumed in the hellish blaze.
Louis IX (St. Louis) with counselors and mother, Blanche de Castile (1188-1252). Miniature, 15th century.King Louis IX, or St. Louis (1214-1270) led the Seventh Crusade from 1248 to 1254.
As one of the first cathedrals built, Notre Dame de Paris is of enduring architectural significance. Monday, April 15, 2019 was a tragic day in history as fire broke out in the 850-year old edifice while the world watched.
Notre Dame de Paris is on fire, April 15, 2019. Countless pictures were taken anonymously and transmitted instantaneously around the world.Extent of the fire damage (in red) at Notre Dame de Paris on April 15, 2019. Fair use.
Thousands of people gathered in the streets of Paris, and transmitted pictures of the dramatic blaze from smartphones and other devices onto the internet and television as a major live news event. It caused many to shed tears and ask questions about what is ahead for a beloved symbol of Paris.
THE FIRE’S IMMEDIATE AFTERMATH
In the aftermath of the 2019 fire, workers aimed to secure and protect the edifice which will take several months to finalize.
By May 2019, the north tower was stabilized and secured while the transept’s beams were declared in good condition.
Although the interior was not damaged, the structural integrity of the high vaults that protected it remains uncertain and requires further close study. The cathedral is undergoing a major effort to remove fire debris including the oak spire (or flèche) dating from 1860 as well as the arch that burned and crashed into the nave.
Cataloguing debris and predicting the building’s future
To the highest degree possible, each bit of fallen debris will be deciphered, cataloged and saved for potential reuse in a restoration. One month after the fire, it was declared premature to know if the building is completely stable or if it might further collapse.
Working on the cathedral in the 21st century are virtually the same type of skilled laborers who built it in the first place in the 12th and 13th centuries – namely, masons, stonecutters, carpenters, roofers, iron workers, and master glassmakers.6
The work associated with the Notre Dame de Paris in the aftermath of the 2019 fire promises to concentrate centuries of history into one location looking to sustain its continued thriving existence for future generations.
NOTES:
1. “Vows to Restore Notre Dame Following a Harrowing
Rescue,” by Sam Schechner and Stacy Meichtry, The Wall Street Journal, April 17, 2019; see Gospel of John, Chapter 12.
5. Duby, Georges, The
Age of the Cathedrals: Art and Society, 980-1420, translated by Eleanor
Levieux and Barbara Thompson, The University of Chicago Press, Chicago and
London, 1981, p.97.
January 2024: “What’s there looks exactly like what was there before…It’s so impressive to be around all the other trades….500 or 600 people are on the site everyday all with different specialties…”
FEATURE image: Paul Gauguin, Oviri (Savage),1894, stone, 75 x 19 x 27 cm, Musée d’Orsay, Paris. Public Domain.
By John P. Walsh
By 1887 French Post-Impressionist artist Paul Gauguin (1848-1903) had created over 50 ceramic sculptures and carved several decorative panels. So it may be expected that during his interlude in Paris between 1893 and 1895 that he would create a woodcut based on his most recent and important discovery of this Paris interval—the hideous Oviri.
Gauguin made a large ceramic of Oviri (fig. 13) in the winter of 1894-1895. The Tahitian name translates as “wild” or “savage” and, a more recent interpretation, “turned into oneself.” The artist submitted it to the annual exhibition of the Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts for April 1895.
fig.12. Paul Gauguin, Oviri (Savage), 1894 – woodcut printed in black on cream Japan laid paper, 8.03 x 4.56 inches (204 x 116 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Clarence Buckingham Collection.
Submitted, Rejected, Overridden
The ceramic, envisioned by the artist as a modern, savage funerary monument (fig.14), was rejected by the judges for inclusion into the salon of the Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts. Gauguin’s latest Tahiti-inspired art was deemed too ugly even by an organization of artists that, since its renewed inception in 1890, is seen as Europe’s first Secessionist movement. Although Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) was a founding member of the group and since 1891 working on his commission from the Société de Gens Lettres for a Paris Balzac statue (that “obese monstrosity”), it was ceramist Ernst Chaplet who insisted on Gauguin’s admittance.56
When Gauguin discovered this mysterious figure who holds a blunted she-wolf, crushing the life out of her cub — occasionally understood as a symbol of female sexual potency — he did not let her go.55 In the print impression — and he made 19 prints from the same wood block, none of which are exactly alike — Gauguin’s Oviri is encountered in the primeval forest as inky blackness.
Paul Marsan, called Dornac (1858-1941), photograph of Ernest Chaplet (Sèvres, 1836 – Choisy-le-Roi, 1909), octobre 21, 1904.fig. 14. Bronze Oviri on the grave of Paul Gauguin on the Marquesan island of Hiva Oa.
Where exactly the ceramic Oviri was displayed in the salon is unclear, but its subsequent route into the collection of the Musée d’Orsay in 1987 is highly circuitous.57 Gauguin often exploited favorite images by repeating them in various media — and the ceramic transposed to the print depicts his idol showering a black light that blots out most of the natural reality around her.
In another Gauguin print from the time period that can fit in the palm of the hand, the artist offers a splendor of darkness, the mystery of a palm frond forest, and a stark confrontation with Oviri who is, as Gauguin described to Stéphane Mallarmé on the poet’s version of the print, “a strange figure, cruel enigma.”58
Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts in 1898.
NOTES:
“turned into oneself” – Anne Pingeot, “Oviri,” in Gauguin Tahiti, George T.M. Shackelford and Claire Frèches-Thory, MFA Publications, 2004, p. 140; “symbol of female sexual potency” – Mathews, p. 203; Gauguin’s ceramic and carved panel output -Barbara Stern Shapiro, “Shapes and Harmonies of Another World,” in Gauguin Tahiti, George T.M. Shackelford and Claire Frèches-Thory, MFA Publications, 2004, pp. 117 and 126.
19 prints from one wood block – Shapiro, p. 126; savage, modern funerary monument – Mathews, p.208; first secessionist movement – Hans-Ulrich Simon, Sezessionismus. Kunstgewerbe in literarischer und bildender Kunst,: J. B. Metzlersche Verlagsbuchhandlung, Stuttgart ,1976, p. 47; Gauguin and the 1895 Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts salon – Mathews, p. 208; “obese monstrosity” – Grunfeld, Frederic V., Rodin:A Biography, Henry Holt and Company, New York, 1987, p. 374.
Anne Pingeot, “Oviri,” in Gauguin Tahiti, George T.M. Shackelford and Claire Frèches-Thory, MFA Publications, 2004, pp. 136-138.
FEATURE Image: Paul Gauguin, Tahitian Idol-The Goddess Hina, 1894/95 – woodcut in black ink, over ochre and red, with touches of white and green inks, on tan wove paper, 5.78 x 4.72 inches (147 x 120 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Edward McCormick Blair collection.
Produced in Paris inspired by Tahiti: Tahitians Fishing – Tahitian Landscape – Tahitian Idol the Goddess Hina.
By John P. Walsh
To take a look at a selection of three prints produced in Paris by Paul Gauguin (1848-1903) that were inspired by his long trip to Tahiti from 1891 to 1893—and followed by his return there in 1895 until his death in 1903— elucidates both his artistic ideas and methods and techniques he used to produce them in this time period unique to his career.
Ever the consummate craftsman—even Gauguin’s modern art critics largely conceded his graphic arts expertise—his traced monotypes (also called watercolor transfer drawings or printed drawings) employed a simple but creatively unique process to offset his watercolor or gouache designs onto paper.
The first step in Gauguin’s process was to place slightly damp paper over his hand-drawn design and with the pressure he exerted from the back of an ordinary spoon the moisture in the paper and the water-based medium worked to transfer the reverse image of the design onto the paper. Gauguin could then reprint his design so that each would be variable images, imparting a pale, soft value to the work — outcomes that the artist sought for these Tahitian pieces.
By 1898, having returned to Tahiti, Gauguin created a new print medium which was essentially a reversal of early Renaissance silverpoint. His new technique required Gauguin to apply a coat of ink to one sheet of paper, place a second sheet over it, and draw on the top sheet with pencil or crayon. The pressure of the drawing instrument transferred the ink from the first sheet of paper onto the back or verso side of the top sheet. Gauguin greatly admired his technical discovery and considered it an expression of “childlike simplicity.”
Fig.1 . Tahitians Fishing, 1893/5 – watercolor and black ink, over pen and brown ink, on vellum laid down on brown wove paper, 9.84 x 12.48 inches (250 x 317 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Edward McCormick Blair collection.
1-Tahitians Fishing
In the first print to be seen, Tahitians Fishing is a small work (fig. 1). Its figures are flat, with little modeling or detail. The impact created is one of a dream. Gauguin presents a primitive world that is half-naked and childlike. In its Synthetist elements, it is reminiscent of a major painting he completed the year before, Fatata te Miti (By the Sea) (fig.2). It shares its flat colors, abstract shapes, and unbroken curves uniting to make an integrated decorative pattern.
Fig. 2. Gauguin, Fatata te Miti (By the Sea), 1892, oil on canvas, 67.9 x 91.5 cm (26 3/4 x 36 in.), The National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.
Yet Tahitians Fishing is a sketch. It is divided into distinct zones like Day of the Gods (Mahana No Atua) (fig.3) created by Gauguin in the same years in Paris. The print shows a grassy foreground and sea/vegetation/sandy shore that creates two horizontal zones. These are bisected by a dominant vertical (a tree) that divides the piece into informal quadrants. The tree, a powerful element, is a void―a space of black ink―while its branches and roots are delineated with the same facile modeling as the rest of the composition. The pair of main roots and twelve or so ancillary roots sit ambiguously atop the grassy foreground with its childlike delineation of blades and sinks into sandy soil. The tree surrounds a naked squatting female, her bare breasts exposed. Is she hiding herself from a second woman working with a net in the area of sand and sea? This second worker is aided by three others who are perhaps completely nude figures that stand waist deep in water. Two are male but the third figure’s sex is uncertain as s/he is turned so the viewer sees only a naked back. There is very little personality to the figures. They are, instead, composition elements like cartoons.
Fig.3. Gauguin, Day of the Gods (Mahana No Atua), 1894,
oil on canvas, 26 7/8 x 36 in. (68.3 x 91.5 cm), The Art Institute of Chicago.
Gauguin’s visual image and text searches and reflects European Symbolism and Tahiti to create a new hybrid
In the time Gauguin was making Tahitians Fishing, he was working on the text and suite of ten wood block prints for his book Noa Noa. Tahitians Fishing also involves text and the visual image. Gauguin places a verse by living French Symbolist poet Paul Verlaine (1844-1896) into a visual work about Tahiti. This artistic admixture could be part of Gauguin’s reaction to one of Symbolist art’s major indictments by naturalist modern art critics ― that it is preoccupied with ideas and should be subsumed exclusively into the domain of literature.41
Gauguin’s literary career began in the midst of this critical argument that predated his first departure to Tahiti and maintained itself at his return. From an artist who confronted disparate parts to create something new, Tahitians Fishing is a hybrid piece of Symbolist literary and visual elements using Gauguin’s obsession with Tahiti as its unifying theme. It indicates that the artist was reflecting on his Tahitian art, if not searching for more. Many Paris critics believed his art confused East and West. Gauguin gives validity to that belief by putting a poem at the top of the sheet in its own artistic “zone” and not straying into the visual image itself or making letters into art. While his pillaging from the Western world could set Gauguin’s critics alight, sympathizers saw his juxtapositions as a productive and creative artistic strategy.42 Verlaine’s nature poem ― “Qu’as-tu fait, ô toi que voilà/Pleurant sans cesse./Dis, qu’as tu fait, toi que voilà/De ta jeunesse?”43 ―provides another facet to Gauguin’s imposition of the Edenic dimension of good and evil onto the image.
Tahitians Fishing tested Gauguin’s powers to illustrate text which he was working on for Noa Noa, a phrase that means “perfume.” The Man with the Ax (fig.4), a print from this Paris period (1892/94) is a complex of thinned gouache and pen and black ink over pen and brown ink on dark tan wove paper and laid down on cream Japanese paper. At approximately 12 x 9 inches it is – by virtue of its tripartite landscape, stooping figure and monumental and vertical figure enclosed in Cloisonnist dark contour – a retrospective of work done in Tahiti between 1891 and 1893.
Fig. 4. Gauguin, Man with an Ax, 1891/93, thinned gouache with pen and black ink, over pen and brown ink on cream wove paper (discolored to tan), laid down on cream Japanese paper, 317 x 228 mm, The Art Institute of Chicago.
Tahitians Fishing is new as it reflects Tahiti and adds a contemporary French Symbolist text. It contains similarities in composition, theme, and figures to the forward-looking painting Day of the Gods. Both share the image of a “Savage Eve” figure which obsessed Gauguin throughout 1893 to 189544 and both have a dominant central vertical―a tree in Tahitians Fishing and an idol in Day of the Gods. Each has distinct horizontal zones and ground-and-water block-like forms. Even the amoeba-shaped waters in Day of the Gods are reflected in the steeply pitched water-as-sky in Tahitians Fishing. Maurice Denis identified Gauguin by his bright, unnatural colors45, but this exercise piece is more than that. It explores compositional forms and themes of his Tahitian and Synthetist works and includes avant-gardist French Symbolist verse. Gauguin’s work in these pieces is not always simply, as Julien Leclerq wrote in December 1894, “(the) transposing into another medium motifs from his Tahitian works.”46 Gauguin may have used this particular Verlaine poem if he was anywhere outside Paris, but it seems less likely. He continued to experiment with mixing text and visual image, a courageous act in the face of conservative critics who, with artists Edgar Degas and Paul Cézanne, castigated Gauguin for the repetitive elaboration and recombination of pictorial ideas. On the recto side of this work no signature of any sort is detectable.
2-Tahitian Landscape
As Belgian critic Emile Verhaeren saw him, Paul Gauguin (French, 1848-1903) produces “child art.”47 The artist’s anagram “P.Go.” looms large in the lower left hand corner making it plain that the 46-year-old Gauguin made this print. Gauguin’s use of color and form are significant as they build up the image of five women in a landscape―two foreground figures more fully defined than the three figures merging into the background. It is ambiguous whether it is a channel of water or grass that separates the two foreground women who appear to perform a rite of worship and a trio in conversation or, as Richard Brettell interprets, dancing.48 As the Seine flows through Paris where Gauguin created this print, there exists in Tahitian Landscape (fig. 5) a commentariat on the Right Bank and artisans spilling blood in their offerings on the Left Bank. Modeling of the three women has affinities with Ta Matete of 1892 (fig.6) as Gauguin uses the same flat, static figures that have been traced to Egyptian painting with the ethnological implication that the Polynesians’ origins are in mankind’s oldest civilizations.49
Fig. 5. Paul Gauguin, Tahitian Landscape, 1894 – watercolor monotype, with brush and watercolor, on cream wove paper, 8.66 x 9.72 inches (220 x 247 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Edward McCormick Blair collection.Fig. 6. Gauguin, Ta Matete (The Market), 1892, 28.7 x 36.2″ (73 x 92 cm), Öffentliche Kunstsammlung, Basel.
Continual rhythm or “musicality” of bodily contours with intervening empty space gives Tahitian Landscape a Synthetist sensibility to the figures while its overall Symbolist ambiguity is a result of pale color and de-emphasized form. The figure of the woman on her knees to the right is engaged in a ritual bathing as Brettell believes or may be bowing before a vague natural stone construct (Brettel, however, denies any hint of religion).A pool of red flows at, or under, her chest that may represent bathing water as Brettell offers or perhaps a hint of light or shadow or, more intensely, the figure’s blood. Red appears again in one of the three dancing figures. In this landscape Gauguin allows for several possible interpretations.
Gauguin presents a scene of bewilderment, ambiguity, and mystery
Under close examination the artist seems to encourage bewilderment by producing a scene of ambiguity and mystery. If Gauguin acted as an ethnologist―as art critic and historian Roger Marx compared him in November 1893 – it would be impossible for the artist to depict an authentic blood sacrifice in Tahiti since, in the 1890s, it was prohibited by French law. The artist then dreams a scene in a Tahitian setting of a woman and her associates offering a savage blood sacrifice to a stone god. This piece asks questions about Gauguin’s attitude for Tahiti and sheds light on some of his deepest desires in Paris. The formulation of the sky, waters, and ground create a Synthetist landscape but it is the Symbolist figures and the mystery surrounding their presence that is the central power of the work. This use of mysterious figures in a landscape is found in Gauguin’s previous work in Martinique (“the land of the Creole gods”50 he wrote in a letter) and in Brittany (figs. 7 and 8).
fig. 7. Gauguin, By the Sea, oil on canvas, signed and dated at lower left, P. Gauguin 87, 18 1/8 x 24 in. (46 x 61 cm), private collection, Paris. Fig. 8. Gauguin, Be Mysterious, 1890, low relief, polychrome lime tree wood 73 x 95 x 5 cm., Musée d’Orsay, Paris.
In Tahitian Landscape, on the other side of the green, blue, and peach-color chasm heavily outlined on the right and halted by a built-up “shore,” the three dancing women who are barely modeled or detailed appear to be observed by an idol figure. It lies in blue shadow in dense foliage and is nearly invisible. As in Tahitians Fishing (see part 2 of “Savagery in Civilization…” ) it is by way of foliage, boulders, and rounded forms of the landscape that there emerges a similarity with the jigsaw puzzle-like lagoon in that same year’s Day of the Gods. However, the forms in Tahitian Landscape are flatter and less organic-looking. As popular graphic art methods could not produce the deliberately pale character of the surface Brettell proposes that this image was made as a transfer or counterproof on wetted paper from a now lost watercolor matrix.51
3- Tahitian Idol-The Goddess Hina
For some pieces of graphic art Paul Gauguin (French, 1848-1903) uses the moniker “P.Go.” to sign them.52 In Tahitian Idol-The Goddess Hina (fig.9, at top of the blog post), the moniker is present in the lower left corner slightly on its side. While Day of the Gods, painted in Paris in 1894 at the same time as the woodcut, received a simple signature of “Gauguin” (the painting was not exhibited in the artist’s lifetime), Gauguin sometimes used these new graphic art works as “image translations” to explain his Tahitian art to the Parisian public. This may explain the pretension of the anagram here.53
fig.10. Gauguin, Parau na te Varua ino (Words of the Devil), 1892, oil on canvas, 91.7 × 68.5 cm (36 1/8 × 25 15/16 in.), National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.
Artist’s obsession with representations of the primitive and “savage”
Gauguin’s obsession with the primitive, the savage, is evident in this work. The small woodcut is an image of a Tahitian goddess where the composition’s diverse elements congeal to a single mask to be held in the palm of one’s hand. Goddess Hina, immobile and august, is fitted into the composition as a first among equals. A tree fills the left border like a totem with a V-formed sprout. At the woodcut’s top border – and peering out of a branch at the tree trunk’s crux – is a profile of an evil spirit represented by a head. The grassy hair of the goddess fills about half the background and falls to nestle by her left arm. Gauguin uses several stock elements in different attitudes or positions. For example, he used the evil head in the 1892 painting Parau na te Varua ino (Words of the Devil) (fig.10) and this woodcut’s symbolism likewise remains complex. In the woodcut, to Goddess Hina’s right and immediately below the malevolent spirit who materializes in strange and frightening humanoid forms, appear abstracted forms of a coiled snake and other ceremonial visages. Goddess Hina is primitive and statuesque whereas the evil head possesses a sinister aspect with circles that serve as open eyes.
When Gauguin wrote from Tahiti in March 1899 to Belgian Symbolist poet and critic André Fontainas with reflections on the South Seas, he expressed strong feelings of awe, personal vigil, and dream-like vision. Such qualities must have been experienced on his first Tahiti trip for they permeate a work like Tahitian Idol – The Goddess Hina:
“Here near my hut, in utter silence, I dream of violent harmonies in the natural fragrances that exhilarate me. A pleasure heightened by an indefinable sacred awe which I divine towards the immemorial. In bygone days, an odor of joy that I breathe in the present. Animal figures in statuesque rigidity: something inexpressibly old, august, religious in the rhythm of their gesture, in their rare immobility. In dreaming eyes, the cloudy surface of an unfathomable enigma. And here is nightfall – everything is at rest. My eyes close in order to see without understanding the dream in the infinite space that recedes before me, and I have a sense of the doleful march of my hopes.”54
Paul Gauguin’s hut in Tahiti – Jules Agostini (1859-1930), December 31, 1904. Bibliothèque nationale de France.
In a work of approximately 5 x 4 inches―and its small size in no way diminishes its artistic force―Gauguin achieves in Tahitian Idol-The Goddess Hina a craftsman’s unity of good and evil in nature. Before his first visit to Tahiti Gauguin already had familiarity with this theme of nature’s duality for he uses it in his 1889 painting Self-Portrait (fig. 11) where halo and snake vie within and for creation.
fig.11. Gauguin, Self-Portrait, 1889, oil on wood, 79.2 x 51.3 cm (31 3/16 x 20 3/16 in.), National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.PAUL GAUGUIN, Tahitian Woman, 1894?, irregularly shaped; charcoal and pastel, selectively stumped, and worked with brush and water on wove “pasted” paper, glued to secondary support of yellow wove paper mounted on gray millboard. The Brooklyn Museum. A pastel where Gauguin subverted the medium.PAUL GAUGUIN The Young Christian Girl, 15 3/8 x 18 inches, oil on canvas, Clark Institute Art Institute, Massachusetts. Gauguin painted this work in Northern France fusing imagery from his recent experiences in Tahiti. She is shown in a dress similar to those brought by Christian missionaries to the South Sea Islands.
NOTES:
Marlais, p.99.
Salvesen, p. 51.
“What have you done – you who are Forever crying? Speak! What have you done – you who are so young?” – my translation.
quoted in Barbara Stern Shapiro, “Shapes and Harmonies of Another World,” in Gauguin Tahiti, George T.M. Shackelford and Claire Frèches-Thory, MFA Publications, 2004, p.131.
Thomson, Gauguin, p. 130.
Brettell, p. 359.
Thomson, Gauguin, p. 152.
Brettell, p. 80; “denies any hint of religion” and “bathing water”- Brettell, p. 359. Brettell’s denial here of Tahitian religion does not preclude his proposing that the bowing figure may be an adaptation of the naked and penitent Magdalen at the foot of the cross, which is part of Catholic tradition.
Ibid., p. 359.
Brettell., p. 330.
Ibid., p. 330.
Delevoy, Robert L., Symbolists and Symbolism, Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., New York, 1982, page 54.
FEATURE image: Gauguin, Self-Portrait with Palette, winter 1893-94 or 1894-95, 92 x 73 cm (35 7/8 x 28 1/2 in.), private collection.
Paul Gauguin, Self-Portrait, 1893-1894. Oil on canvas, 18 x 15 in. (46 x 38 cm), Musée D’Orsay, Paris. The artist portrays himself in his new studio in Paris painted in bright colors with exotic decor including a blue and yellow sarong at the lower right. Behind him is his Manau Tupapau (The Spirit of the Dead Keeps Watch, Buffalo, Albright-Knox Art Gallery) painted in the South Pacific in 1892.
By John P. Walsh
In May 1894 during a working visit to Brittany filled with nostalgia, a 45-year-old Paul Gauguin broke his leg above the ankle in a scuffle with sailors in broad daylight. In France just nine months after being away in French Polynesia for over two years, Gauguin was spotted playing the role of bohemian artist in Concarneau, an old fishing port which had become a busy international art colony. Gauguin made an attractive target in his outlandish attire and shoulder-length hair huddled with a coterie of young art disciples, a pet monkey, and a Ceylonese child mistress whose dark skin offended late-nineteenth-century social norms as much as her age.1
Map of Brittany in northwestern France showing the principal sites where Gauguin and other avant-garde artists lived and worked in the late 1880s and 1890s.
Exhibiting his penchant for questioning prevailing assumptions and bringing to Brittany the easy sexual standards he experienced in Tahiti, a dissolute Gauguin now paid for his personal freedom with serious bodily harm. The violent incident added to the changed relations Gauguin found for himself in France since his return to his homeland in late August 1893. After his 27-month artistic exile in the middle of the South Pacific starting in April 1891, the midcareer artist strove to re-establish ties among dealers, critics, collectors and artists in Paris. He had a misguided anticipation for sales of his new Tahitian paintings based on his past artistic triumphs and the handful of new Tahiti work he sent ahead of his arrival into France for exhibition in Paris to carry his objectives forward.2 In Brittany Gauguin’s injury required him to be hospitalized and put on morphine and alcohol as pain killers for a two-month recuperation. By late August 1894 Gauguin’s leg had healed where he traveled to nearby Quimper for his assailants’ trial. The artist had sued the ruffians for 3,000 francs, but local justice meted out a small fine.3
Gauguin did not rest on his laurels or his recent injury. Rather, since his return to France, Gauguin engaged himself almost nonstop in self-promotion on behalf of his new Tahitian art portfolio. During his recuperation Gauguin found he was unable to paint in his first full summer back in France in 1894. This was a hard irony since in his Tahitian work between 1892 and 1893 Gauguin was primarily a painter. In summer 1894 he turned to work exclusively on wood cuts and monotypes (the latter art form also called transfer drawings, watercolor transfer drawings, printed drawings, and traced monotypes). Working alone and with other artists from the Pont-Aven group, Gauguin experimented with new images, new arrangements and new applications without committing anything to oil. These print techniques ―different from etching which Gauguin found too dainty― afforded him the painterly effects, unusual textures and distorted forms that he sought and which his opponents in the modern art world vocally despised. For the sake of this post’s length and logic, a fuller presentation of four of these “savage” prints which Gauguin finished in Paris between 1893 and 1895 (among scores of others) can be discovered in a separate blog post. Excluding the collective power of his ten large and earliest woodcuts made for Noa Noa, no works of graphic art by Gauguin in this Paris period are more mysterious than the ones this article will consider – namely, Tahitians Fishing (involving Savage Eves), Tahitian Landscape (blood sacrifices), Tahitian Idol – The Goddess Hina (vying spirits in the natural world) and Oviri based on Gauguin’s ceramic sculpture.
TAHITIANS FISHING, 1893/5 – watercolor and black ink, over pen and brown ink, on vellum laid down on brown wove paper, 9.84 x 12.48 inches (250 x 317 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Edward McCormick Blair collection.TAHITIAN LANDSCAPE, 1894 – watercolor monotype, with brush and watercolor, on cream wove paper, 8.66 x 9.72 inches (220 x 247 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Edward McCormick Blair collection.TAHITIAN IDOL – THE GODDESS HINA, 1894-95 – woodcut in black ink, over ochre and red, with touches of white and green inks, on tan wove paper, 5.78 x 4.72 inches (147 x 120 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Edward McCormick Blair collection.OVIRI (SAVAGE), 1894 – woodcut printed in black on cream Japan laid paper, 8.03 x 4.56 inches (204 x 116 mm). The Art Institute of Chicago, Clarence Buckingham Collection.
In November 1894 when Gauguin was able to return from Brittany to Paris he opened the door to his studio to find that its two rooms had been ransacked save for own art work. It had been the undertaking of Gauguin’s Ceylonese mistress, called Annah la Javanaise, who had exacted her sense of savage justice on the man from France for her services.4
Gauguin’s Studio at 6 rue Vercingétorix in Paris. Gauguin is seated at left in the broad brimmed hat. Behind him is artist Paul Sérusier with Annah la Javanaise. Standing in the black hat is painter Georges Lacombe. The two musicians are Fritz Schnedklud (center) and Larrivel (right). Photograph: Musée Gauguin, Papeari.
Following his passage from Tahiti into France on August 30, 18935, Paul Gauguin, virtually penniless, stayed in Paris with art historian Émile Schuffenecker with whom he had been estranged and by more than the High Seas.6 From fall 1892 into early spring 1893 Gauguin had been sending to Paris his new work from Tahiti ―nine canvases in total – including his first portrait of a Tahitienne, namely, Vahine no te Tiare of 1892 which today hangs in Copenhagen. Displayed in the Boulevard Montmartre gallery of Boussod, Valadon & Cie (the former Goupil & Cie),7 critical reaction to the portrait which was so important to Gauguin turned out to be mixed.8 The portrait might have served as a bellwether to Gauguin and those who paid attention to his work. Its tepid, divided response would mark the reception he received for his much larger Tahitian oeuvre in Paris between 1893 and 1895.
Gauguin, Vahine No te Tiare (Woman with Flower), 1891. Oil on canvas, 70 x 46 cm, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen.
While Edgar Degas spoke well of and invested in Gauguin’s work, the two were not personally close.9 It was in conversation with younger artists and one older artist, Odilon Redon, that in January or February 1890 Gauguin was inspired to pursue the idea of a “Studio of the Tropics.” Although Redon by late summer of 1890 told Gauguin he was against his leaving France – whether to Madagascar, as first entertained, or as it happened, to Tahiti in April 1891, Gauguin was clearly not persuaded. Redon was convinced that Gauguin’s artistic development in Europe would be significant and appealed to Gauguin to reconsider.10 Gauguin wrote to Redon from Le Pouldu in September of 1890:
“…The reasons you give me for staying in Europe are more flattering than they are likely to convince me. My mind is made up…I judge that my art, which you like, is only a seedling thus far, and out there I hope to cultivate it…Here, Gauguin is finished, and nothing more will be seen of him…”11
In Tahiti Gauguin made his home in Papeete and soon after in Mataiea before he returned to Paris two years and three months later in August 1893. He stayed in the French capital for twenty-two months until a second departure for Tahiti in June 1895 when this time, indeed, nothing more would be seen of him (“My design, Gauguin wrote, “(is) to bury myself in the South Sea Islands.”)12 It could not be known until December 1894 that Gauguin had decided to return to Tahiti – although in 1894 his letters expressed longing for it.13 His time in Paris possessed a “liminal” quality in that he occupied a position at or on both sides of a boundary or threshold of Tahiti. From 1893 to 1895 in Paris Gauguin had two distinct worlds to draw on and consider for his art – one, an echo of Redon’s advice in 1890 to develop artistically in Europe and two, his memory of Tahiti from 1891 to 1893. The South Seas had imparted to Gauguin new images for him to paint that he could not find in France – and he worked to promote these discoveries and ruminate on them in current work. Unlike Brittany of which the artist was fond, Tahiti surrounded Gauguin with a strangeness that allowed his imagination to take greater hold of the mystery, savagery, and otherness that he increasingly sought to express in his artistic work. Both worlds can be found in Gauguin’s art of this Paris period – Tahiti in the new images based on primitiveness and savagery and France in the forms of Symbolism and Synthetism that Gauguin learned and helped lead after 1888. Each of these worlds – one definitely savage and the other civilized or also savage based on one’s art critical perspective in early 1890s Paris – informed the other in formal terms and the impressions inspired by the artist’s dreams, exaggerations and inventions.
Paul Gauguin had come back to France actually intending to stay14 but as time passed his connection to the faraway islands became too strong to forsake. At Café Escoffier in Paris on December 7, 1894, Gauguin announced his return to Tahiti and left France forever the following year. In those 660 days in France Gauguin worked to force rapid public acceptance of his work and ended up being all but shunned by the French public. Gauguin brought to Tahiti in 1891 the experience of all the art he had made in the late 1880s with Vincent Van Gogh in Arles and with Émile Bernard and Paul Sérusier in Brittany as well as his deep admiration for Redon’s noirs. Primitive culture in Polynesia, while truncated and absorbed into French rule, appealed to him and in the Paris interlude Gauguin obsessed about the island in his literature and art.15
Gauguin. Manao Tupapau (Spirit of the Dead Watching), 1892. Oil on canvas. 28 1/2 x 36 3/8 in. (72.5 x 92.5 cm), Albright-Knox Art Gallery, Buffalo, NY.
Gauguin took the initiative to woo the French art-buying public and even the State to embrace the sixty-six paintings that comprised his Tahitian portfolio. His failure to take Paris by storm in this period― book-ended by a two-week commercial exhibition at Durand-Ruel’s in November 1893 and a Drouot auction on February 18, 1895 ―is blamed for his leaving for Tahiti the second and final time. These disappointments had a financial bearing – he sold only eleven of forty-one paintings from Tahiti at Durand-Ruel’s and just nine out of forty seven works at the Hôtel Drouot – but their apathetic reception affected more than a mercantile Gauguin. It is a historical irony that one of Gauguin’s unsold Tahitian paintings from this period – his 1892 double portrait “Nafea Faa Ipoipo” (When Will You Marry?)” – was sold in February 2015 by a Swiss family foundation to a group of state museums in Qatar for a record nearly $300 million. In 1893 the artist priced it at no higher than 3,000 francs or about $15,000 in 2015 dollars.
Gauguin, Nafea faa ipoipo (When Will You Marry Me?), oil on canvas, 101 by 77 cm (40 in × 30 in.).
In art work Gauguin was preparing for the public and for his private rumination he continued his “searching deep within himself”16 begun in Tahiti with its exotic theme being paramount. Throughout the period of 1893 to 1895, in Paris and in Brittany, Gauguin escaped into a Tahitian world of his own imaginings by way of his highly experimental graphic work.17 Gauguin brought to Paris with him his notes and sketch books from Tahiti and meditated on them during the course of his Paris sojourn. He thought of these mementos as “my letters, my secrets”18 and one wonders about his intention to commercially exhibit these trial works. In summer 1894 Gauguin gave away some of his watercolors19 and while this action may serve as a memento or payment to a friend, it points to a tentativeness with which Gauguin viewed these first works. “The world I am discovering,” Gauguin wrote in a letter months later, “is a Paradise the outlines of which I shall have merely sketched out and between the sketch and the realization of the vision there is a long way to go.”20
Aside from around fifteen paintings he did in France from 1893 to 1895, Gauguin’s work is mainly (with some overlap in art forms) in the graphic arts and literature, including Noa Noa, Ancien Culte Mahorie, and Cahier Pour Aline. Starting in Paris during this period and until his death in May 1903, Gauguin worked to transform himself from an artist to an artist and writer. The general idea for this effort was not original to Gauguin; it may even be a reaction to his critics who derided him as a “writer’s painter” – that is, one who obscured his instinctive painterly talent with literary or ideal concerns. Criticism of Gauguin’s art for this specific reason was deep and extensive in 1890s France by many leading intellectuals who favored the prevailing Impressionist and Neo-Impressionist art forms which promoted a naturalist and modernist art and that Gauguin had abandoned in the late 1880s. Gauguin angered and annoyed artists and critics and they derided his current work forcefully. According to Félix Fénéon Gauguin’s art was unnatural, irrational and illogical and constituted a step backwards for modern art which had staked a secular, democratic, and progressive course. For Camille Pissarro and Impressionist artists such as Paul Signac – Gauguin’s Synthetist and Symbolist styles and forms were retrograde and should be actively resisted. “Let us study Delacroix, Corot, Puvis, Manet and leave those (other) humbugs to their own devices,”21 wrote Signac in 1895 about Monsieur Gauguin.
Gauguin, three wooden sculptures exhibited at Durand Ruel’s in November 1893. Photography Georges Chaudet. Gauguin’s commercial exhibition at Durand-Ruel’s included 41 Tahitian paintings, 3 Brittany paintings, 1 ceramic and wood sculptures called “tiis.”
Although brief and contentious, Paris turned out to be a productive time for Gauguin’s art.22 In December 1893 following decent sales after his exhibition at Durand-Ruel’s, Gauguin wrote from Paris to his wife Mette in Copenhagen and pointedly did not discuss his earnings which likely netted him about 10,000 francs – or $50,000 in 2015 dollars.23 Gauguin talked around the money issue to reflect on his attitude for any future art world gambit which would likely be undertaken immediately. “My show,” Gauguin wrote to his faraway spouse, “has not in fact given the results that might have been expected but we must look facts in the face…The most important thing is that my exhibition had a very great artistic success, has even provoked passion and jealousy. The press has treated me …rationally, with words of praise. For the moment I am considered by many people to be the greatest modern painter.”24
Many viewers, however, were perplexed by the artist’s refusal to translate into French the Tahitian titles found in scores of his paintings. Others were amused by the bohemian role he had assumed for himself in astrakhan hat and gilet. Gauguin was obsessed with exhibiting his major Tahitian paintings, continuing to produce that kind of work in Paris and trying to explain this portfolio to the public through his studio invitations, writings, and “image translations.” He wanted to see his Tahitian work conquer the Paris art world.25 While many Parisians did not accept or understand Gauguin’s Tahiti art they were fascinated by it. The World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago opened in May 1893 and closed just ten days before Gauguin’s Tahiti show opened at Durand-Ruel’s. The Chicago Fair, inspired by the 1889 Paris Universal Exposition, showcased ethnological “villages” that attracted nearly thirty million people. Despite a set course for Impressionism as the parameter for modern art, Gauguin’s cutting-edge Tahiti art could not be ignored completely by Parisians who felt an intense curiosity about exotic locales, especially French Polynesia.26 In Paris Gauguin showed himself to be tireless to capitalize on this current passion. In his letters he ceaselessly complains, justifies his every action, demands extraordinary things of others and lays grand plans for himself because he believed his artistic career was on the verge of greatness but frustratingly incomplete. He poured his energy into his several artistic exhibitions in Paris and elsewhere, produced critical articles and letters for journals, and began to pull together his Tahiti adventures to write Noa Noa with his occasional friend Charles Morice. Morice added a preface, a chapter entitled “Songeries,” as well as the poems. Portions of Noa Noa (“pleasing fragrance”) appeared for the first time in La Revue Blanche, between October 15 and November 1, 1897, more than two years after Gauguin returned to Tahiti. Yet Gauguin used the writing project in late 1893 to excuse himself from traveling to Copenhagen to see his wife Mette.27
Eugène Carrière, Portrait of Charles Morice, 1893 Oil on canvas, 46.5 x 38.5 cm, Clemens Sels Museum, Neuss, Germany.
Gauguin, Portrait of Mette, 1877, The Courtauld Gallery, London.
In Paris Gauguin produced a slew of graphic work and some painting and sculpture. His message from the French capital to his far off wife was interchangeable with what it had been from Tahiti: “I am up to my neck in work!” and that he needed money.28 Regardless of his committed efforts at self-promotion and artistic expansion in Paris – including all aspects of publicity, catalog production, and stock preparation for his Tahiti exhibitions as well as mending fences with old friends and rejoining social networks such as Stéphane Mallarmé’s “les jeudis”29 – criticism and sales receipts did not fulfill the artist’s hopes for his new art. Following Durand-Ruel’s, Gauguin in January 1894 rented a two-room studio on Rue Vercingétorix and fills it with his unsold art that amounted to dozens of paintings and sculptures as well as his current work, some flea-market exotica, and an ethnographic collection. He famously decorated the walls in chrome yellow and olive green―reminiscent of Pierre Loti’s residence in western France with its valuable Far Eastern art collection30― and invited friends to share in his les mardis where they played music, told travel stories, and the host read from his work-in-progress, Noa Noa. 31
Courtyard apartment, 6 rue Vercingétorix, in the Montparnasse section of Paris, around the time of Gauguin’s residence. The location is difficult to imagine in modern Paris today.
One question asked about Gauguin’s Tahitian and Tahitian-inspired oeuvre was which of it is strictly Tahitian and which is western influenced – or, what is direct observation and what is artifice? Exceptional global coordinates did not prevent Gauguin’s first Tahitian experience from 1891 to 1893 to have a European and specifically French flavor. At Durand-Ruel’s exhibition one critic traced the origins of Gauguin’s Ia Orana Maria of 1891, now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, to a late-1870s work by Jules Bastien-Lepage. In the French press he scoffed at Gauguin’s canvas as “nothing but a Bastien-Lepage done Tahitian style.”32 This sort of critical charge underscores the ground-breaking nature of Gauguin’s art as it introduced primitivism into the European cosmopolitan avant-garde at the turn of the century. Tahiti was an official French colony since 1880 and like most Frenchmen Gauguin had little to no knowledge of its indigenous beliefs and customs. Further, he found no indigenous cultural artifacts during his first stay although he did late in his stay discover published sources for indigenous objects and practices that influenced his art by way of a Belgian scholar.33 In addition to Gauguin’s main artistic threat at “terrorizing reality” and creating ugly art as Fénéon and others strongly postulated, the challenge to Gauguin’s lack of direct observation of Tahitian subject matter or overall Tahitian expertise helped to dismiss his new art as “inauthentic.” Gauguin’s personal life was also fodder for criticism by his artistic enemies. For instance, that it was discovered that Gauguin procured his exotic mistress, Annah la Javanaise, only after his return to Paris stealing her from a French singer after meeting her possibly through art dealer Ambroise Vollard lent an almost boorish air to his art-world bearing. That after1895 Annah la Javanaise became Alphonse Mucha’s mistress in the same building in which she ransacked Gauguin’s studio in August or September 1894, was a further curiosity.34
Perhaps to be expected from leading Impressionists such as Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Camille Pissarro and Paul Signac, each balked before Gauguin’s forty-one Tahitian canvases during his one-man show at Durand-Ruel’s in November 1893. Two days before the show closed Pissarro wrote to his cher Lucien: “I saw Gauguin; he told me his theories about art and assured me that the young would find salvation by replenishing themselves at remote and savage sources. I told him that this art did not belong to him, that he was a civilized man and hence it was his function to show us harmonious things. We parted, each unconvinced. Gauguin is certainly not without talent, but how difficult it is for him to find his own way! He is always poaching on someone’s ground; now he is stealing from the savages of Oceania.”35 Yet during that two-week show Gauguin received a complimentary review from Octave Mirbeau, his old champion, and a reported verbal endorsement from major Symbolist poet Stéphane Mallarmé. While some new paintings done by Gauguin in Paris are clear aesthetic hybrids of Europe and Polynesia―such as Portrait de Upaupa Schneklud and Aita Parari te Tamari Vahine Judith, both from 1894―Vaïraumati tei oa (Her Name is Vairaumati), a painting he started in Tahiti in 1892 based on his new-found knowledge of indigenous gods, received its mystery and savagery out of French Symbolism and this trend of inculcating his Tahitian iconography with contemporary if controversial European influences would significantly deepen in Paris.
Gauguin, Upaupa Schneklud, 1894, oil on canvas, 92.5 x 73.5 cm (36 x 28 5/8 in.), The Baltimore Museum of Art.Gauguin, Aita Tamari Vahine Judith Te Parari, 1893-1894, oil on canvas, 116 x 81 cm (45 1/4 x 31 1/2 in.), private collection.
The argument over whether Gauguin’s Tahitian oeuvre was either authentic, exploitative colonialism or the condition for an artistic sham continued during his Paris stay. After it was revealed that Gauguin was returning to Tahiti in spring 1895, the regular art critic for Mercure de France ridiculed his decision based on the artist’s published contention that his rendering of the unnatural and the ideal were his muses. “Why must he leave his Breton digs,” Camille Mauclair wrote, “and exile himself in Tahiti to execute his painting which could, as Gauguin himself said, be done without leaving his room?” Even the artist traveling to Tahiti could be viewed, under certain critical conditions, as inauthentic to Gauguin’s own Tahitian-inspired modern art.36
Gauguin. Vaïraumati tei oa (Her Name is Vairaumati). 1892. Oil on canvas. The Pushkin Museum of Fine Art, Moscow, Russia.
Lagging sales in Paris and in Copenhagen of Gauguin’s Tahitian art portfolio remained a sore point for the artist. Whatever the date or venue― Durand-Ruel’s from November 10-25, 1893; an auction of Père Tanguy’s art collection with six works by Gauguin on June 2, 1894; a sales-exhibition in his atelier of Gauguin’s woodcuts, monotypes, wood sculptures and Tahitian paintings from December 2-9, 1894; or a February 18, 1895 Drouot auction of 47 works of art – sales performance for the “greatest modern painter” consistently underwhelmed. Such headwinds pushed Gauguin to “face facts” in a changed manner. In December 1893 he had bragged to Mette about bidders at Durand-Ruel’s going as high as 1,500 francs on his asking price of 2,000 to 3,000 francs for a Tahitian canvas and he conceiving a potential fallback price of 1,000 francs for each of his paintings. A year later, hungry for cash and wanting to unload his 4-year-old stock, Gauguin offered the same dealer thirty-five Tahitian canvases for 600 francs each.37
What might have occurred for Gauguin if he had stayed in Paris instead of going back to Tahiti, while impossibly speculative, is hinted at by his choice of Swede August Strindberg to write his catalog introduction for the February 1895 Drouot auction. While Strindberg could be simply viewed as another national hybrid – that of the Nordic lands and France – by the mid 1890s there could be no more propitious moment for Gauguin to interact with this avant-garde literary figure. About Gauguin’s age, Strindberg had also broke with naturalism around 1890 and subsequently was in personal and artistic crisis as he sought new arts forms in an emerging Symbolism. For his proposed catalog introduction Strindberg recognized Gauguin to be a savage and what defined a savage, according to the playwright, novelist and poet, is that he created art work that is neither beautiful nor harmonious but original and unique.
August Strindberg, Self Portrait in Berlin, 1892, National Library of Sweden.
In mid1890s Paris the city was in the midst of a technological revolution. It was in color lithography and that mechanical art form proliferated among artists like wildfire which a competitive Gauguin could not have failed to notice. His reaction to the popular modern modality was to remain undeterred in his pursuit of the low-tech woodcut. The savage, Strindberg wrote, is independent and uncompromising. In the rush to technology, Gauguin’s defiance – or what Mette called his “most monstrously brutal egoism” –contributed to the woodcut’s revival at this time. More important, in the graphic arts no contemporary French artist could approach Gauguin’s power and vitality.38 In the Paris period from 1893 to 1895 – and extending to 1900 – Gauguin had no dealer representation. Gauguin broke and then drifted away from the security of Impressionism that Degas, Monet, Renoir and Cassatt enjoyed.39 Strindberg, an artistic visionary, could bring little to Gauguin by way of collectors or patrons. Like Gauguin, he brought the integrity of his artistic experience which around that time was regrettably bordering on insanity. Three months before leaving France, Gauguin, resigned or relishing his social and artistic isolation, wrote to writer-artist Maurice Denis in March 1895. Gauguin wrote to congratulate the younger artist on an article he published on Armand Séguin, Gauguin’s print-making comrade in Brittany in summer 1894―and includes this short line on a modern artist’s role that might serve as Gauguin’s epitaph in France:
“What prompts me to write you is the pleasure it gives me to see painters looking after their own business….Go on all of you fighting with the brush as well as the pen, and in my retreat (in the South Seas) I shall cherish this fervent hope.”40
Gauguin, Self-Portrait with Palette, winter 1893-94 or 1894-95, 92 x 73 cm (35 7/8 x 28 1/2 in.), private collection. His new friend Armand Séguin (1869–1903) described the older Gauguin at this time with “his astrakhan hat and his huge dark blue overcoat buttoned with a precious buckle, in which he looked to the Parisians like a sumptuous, gigantic Magyar, or like Rembrandt in 1635.” (Séguin 1903a, 160).
The Paris interlude for Gauguin was about reworking and reinterpreting his first Tahitian experience. Whether Breton coifs or Tahitian pareos, Gauguin uses them to express his themes of distant memory, savagery, mystery, darkness, androgyny, sensual melancholy, exoticism, and the hieratic. His art united disparate objects and themes but under a veil of mystery and ambiguity. As a craftsman he uses symbolical objects to express a deeper idea than the surface meaning of the artifacts that a viewer can identify. Along with his unsold canvases Gauguin filled his Paris studio with Tahitian fabrics, wooden sculptures, weapons, trophies, and photographs and then advertised for collectors to come and steep themselves in the new language of modern art.41 Through hard work and artistic vision in France involving Synthetism, Symbolism, and from 1893 to 1895, Tahitianism, Gauguin remained an avant-garde leader. Gauguin’s art divided critical opinion but ever the passionate individualist who possessed an optimistic expectation for himself he saw much of his ambition realized in Paris in those short months. His wife Mette was responsive to his interests and he received his share of critical praise and sales for his exhibitions. In his art Gauguin combined fact and fantasy, reality and imagination and used a variety of artistic media and innovative techniques.42 In Paris by way of his re-workings of his Tahitian experience Gauguin deepened his vision of the islands and served his appetite to be, as Gustave Flaubert might arrange, “violent and revolutionary” in his work. Between 1893 and 1895 Impressionist Paris is artistically lost in the background to Paul Gauguin: there is no more than one canvas of its snow-covered roofs out of a courtyard window that was painted by him. The importance of Tahiti in Gauguin’s psyche in this Paris interlude cannot be overstated – and it becomes increasingly evident after his return there which soon resulted in his second (and final) Polynesian sojourn.
Mathews, Nancy Mowll, Paul Gauguin: An Erotic Life, Yale University Press, New Haven, 2001, p. 205.
Ibid. p.193.
Malingue, Maurice, Paul Gauguin: Letters to his Wife and Friends, The World Publishing Company, Cleveland and New York, 1949 (Letter 150, Gauguin to William Molard), p. 193.
“First Tahitian period Gauguin primarily painter…” Brettell, Richard, et.al., The Art of Paul Gauguin, National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. and The Art Institute of Chicago, 1988, p. 297; “exclusively on watercolor transfers and woodcuts” – Ibid., p. 293; “print techniques” – Boyle-Tuner, Caroline, in collaboration with Samuel Josefowitz, foreward by Douglas Druick, The Prints of the Pont-Aven School: Gauguin and His Circle in Brittany, Abbeville Press, New York, 1986, p.106; “atelier…plundered…”, Bretell, p. 294.
For Gauguin’s return date, August 30, 1893 according to Gloria Groom in Brettell, p. 291 and August 23, 1893 according to Nancy Mowll Mathews in Mathews, p. 193.
Mathews, p. 194.
Mathews, p. 300; Thomson, Belinda, Gauguin, Thames and Hudson, New York, 1897 (reprinted 1997), p 138.
Thomson, p 138.
Mathews, p.195.
Rewald, John, Post-Impressionism: From Van Gogh to Gauguin, The Museum of Modern Art, New York, Third Edition, 1978, p. 414.
Malingue, (Letter 157, Gauguin to Maurice Denis), p. 200.
Mathews, p. 207.
Salvesen, Britt, Gauguin, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers, New York, 2001, p. 57.
Thomson, Gauguin, p.156.
Ibid., p.140.
Brettell, p. 300.
Exhibition Pamphlet, “Intimate Encounters Paul Gauguin and the South Pacific,” The Edward McCormick Blair Collection, September 6, 2003 to January 11, 2004, the Art Institute of Chicago.
Mathews, p. 203.
Malingue, (Letter 154, Gauguin to August Strindberg), February 5, 1895, p.197.
see Georges Lecomte (1867-1958), “Salon XX, conférence de M. Georges Lecomte,” L’Art moderne, 28 February 1892, p. 67 and Francois Thiébault-Sisson (1856-1944), “Les Petits Salons” in Le Temps, December 2, 1893. “What artist would be more gifted if exclusively literary friendships did not cloud his judgment and paralyze the instinctive sense of painting that he has?” -quoted in Mathews, p. 203. For Félix Fénéon, Camille Pissarro and Paul Signac quote, see Marlais, Michael, Conservative Echoes in Fin-de-Siècle Parisian Art Criticism, The Pennsylvania State University Press, University Park, PA, 1992, pp. 98-101.
see Brettell, p. 297; Delevoy, Robert L., Symbolists and Symbolism, Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., New York, 1982, p. 159; Stevenson, Lesley, Gauguin, Gallery Books/W.H. Smith Publishers, Inc., New York, 1990, p. 56; Crepaldi, Gabriele, trans. Sylvia Tombesi-Walton, Gauguin, Dorling Kindersley, London, 1998, p. 92.
Mathews, p. 197.
Malingue, (Letter 145, Gauguin to Mette), pp. 187-88.
“image translations” –Brettell, p. 330; Druick, Douglas W. and Zegers, Peter Kort, Van Gogh and Gauguin: The Studio of the South, Thames & Hudson, New York 2001, p. 342.
Malingue, letter 142, Gauguin to his wife, September 1893, p.186.
Mathews, p. 195-196.
Ibid., p. 197.
Brettell, p. 301.
Thomson, Gauguin, p.146.
“European sources” – Ibid., p. 143; “little knowledge of indigenous beliefs and customs” and “by way of a Belgian” – Ibid., p.156; “found no indigenous cultural artefacts” – Ibid., p. 161.
Salvesen, pps. 50-51.
Pissarro, Camille, Letters to his Son Lucien, edited by John Rewald, Peregrine Smith, Inc., Santa Barbara and Salt Lake City, 1981, p. 280.
Mirbeau – Mathews, p.197; Mallarmé reportedly said: “It is extraordinary that one should be able to put so much mystery into so much splendor.” – Dorra, Henri, Symbolist Art Theories: A Critical Anthology, University of California press, 1994, p.209; Mauclair – Mathews, p.210.
“bragged about bidders..” Malingue (Letter 145, Gauguin to Mette), p. 187-88; “thirty-five canvases for 600 francs each…” -Brettell, p. 294.
Strindberg –Mathews, p. 207; color lithography and woodcuts revival – Shapiro, p. 133; “brutal egoism”-quoted in Claire Frèches-Thory, “The Exhibition at Durand-Ruel,” in Gauguin Tahiti, George T.M. Shackelford and Claire Frèches-Thory, MFA Publications, 2004, p. 84.
Ibid., p. 200.
Malingue, (Letter 157, Gauguin to Maurice Denis), pp. 200-201.