Category Archives: Nature

MIDWEST ROADS: A Photographic Essay.

MIDWEST ROADS: A Photographic Essay is an ongoing visual project regularly updated.

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1-Dell Rhea’s Chicken Basket is 22 miles southwest of downtown Chicago at 645 Joliet Road in Willowbrook, Illinois. It was started in 1926 by Irv Kolarik as a gasoline station on the brand-new Route 66. It started serving its fried chicken almost 80 years ago in 1939. The one-story brick commercial building was built in 1946 by architect Eugene F. Stoyke next to the gas station with its lunch counter. The full-service restaurant was just in time for the post-World War II business and travel boom on Midwest roads. Dell Rhea’s window bay of nine single-light-glass-and-wood-canted windows is original. A cocktail lounge was added in 1956 while a fireplace anchors the north wall. In front of the building is the original neon-and-metal sign (recently replaced in 2017). In 1962 the new expressway (I-55) took traffic from Route 66. The Chicken Basket was bought in 1963 by Chicago businessman Dell Rhea who reinvigorated the eatery for the new era. The popular Chicken Basket is still owned and managed today by the Rhea family where their fresh and tasty fried chicken is cooked to order and definitely a Midwest Road’s best!

Text and Photographs by John P. Walsh.

INTRODUCTION.

This is a contemporary photographic essay featuring people, places, and things I have found interesting along America’s Midwest roads today. I have a long affection, if by simple affiliation, for the American Midwest. I grew up here, in Chicago and its suburbs, and went to school here. I enjoyed summer vacations here and got married and settled down here. I continue to enthusiastically travel this vast region that’s been called “The Heart of America.” The happy memories of the Middle West’s sights, sounds, smells, and tastes – whether in Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan, Indiana, Iowa, Missouri, Ohio, Kansas, Nebraska, etc., – are the mother’s milk of my life. Over many hot summers, multi-color autumns, deep, frosty winters, and wild-flowered springs I have sojourned literally tens of thousands of miles on Midwest roads and can report that in 2016 the Midwestern adventure carries on. It teems with human stories, diverse and awesome natural beauty, timeless nostalgia, and, if those things aren’t enticing enough, even an unexpected curiosity or two. For those who love it, the Midwestern terrain possesses what Edgar Lee Masters (1868-1950) in The Sangamon identified as “magic in that soil, in the plains, the borders of forest, the oak trees on the hills.” The poet was sure that “if you should drive through (this region)…strange dreams would come to you, and moreover those dreams would tally with mine.” The region still offers the sightseer such magical things and much more including impressive remnants of an American Indian mound-building culture and encounters with animals and birds, wild and domesticated. Edgar Lee Masters understood too that it is the Midwestern people – individualistic, hospitable, industrious, good willed, courageous and independent – who will always bestow to this central part of the country its greatest distinction. It is this populace which today, as well as in the past, built what may be frequently photographed on Midwest roads: the canals, roads, barns and farms, houses, towns and cities. But there are new things appearing on the 21st-century Midwest road such as cellphone towers and wind turbines, and old things, such as barns and farms, disappearing at a regrettably rapid pace. Some of American history’s most famous cultural figures have traversed the Midwest roads, including James Monroe (in 1785), Charles Dickens (in 1842), John Muir (in 1849), Henry David Thoreau (in 1861),  Antonín Dvořák (in 1893), Winston Churchill (in 1946)—or were born and lived here, including Carl Sandburg, Ernest Hemingway, Thomas Edison, Edgar Lee Masters, Walt Disney, Samuel Langhorne Clemens (“Mark Twain”), Jane Addams, Harry S. Truman, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Ronald and Nancy Reagan, Barack and Michelle Obama,  Frank Lloyd Wright, Kurt Vonnegut Jr., John Wayne, Wyatt Earp, “Wild Bill” Hickok, Jesse James, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Judy Garland, Dinah Washington (“Queen of the Blues”), and many, many more. It is Abraham Lincoln whose memory is most famously linked to these Midwest Roads as he loved to travel them as a lawyer on the Eighth (Judicial) Circuit riding his horse, “Old Bob.” It is to the Midwestern spirit of America’s sixteenth president that this photographic essay is dedicated.

Honor Guard, Ronald Reagan Boyhood Home, Dixon, IL - June 5, 2017. FSB finish sharp crop DSC_0744
Honor Guard, Ronald Reagan Boyhood Home, Dixon, IL – June 5, 2017. Posted September 24, 2017.
Midwest Roads.
Wide load-southern Wisconsin – June 1, 2017.
Midwest roads.
gray barn and stone- southern Wisconsin- June 1, 2017.
Midwest roads.
mother & child, October 9, 2016.
Midwest roads.
fall fest, October 9, 2016.
Midwest Roads.
silo, barn, weather vane, Grundy County, IL -September 18, 2016.
Midwest Roads.
this old house- September 18, 2016.
Midwest roads.
old red head, Grundy County, IL – September 18, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Barn (1911), Sandwich, IL – September 18, 2016.
Midwest Roads.
Cow portrait – September 4, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Octogenarian, Illinois River Valley – September 4, 2016.
Midwest Roads.
barn and wagon, Lasalle county, IL -August 31, 2016.
Midwest roads.
siblings-Illinois River valley – August 31, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Electrified barns, Grundy County, IL – August 31, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Courthouse Square art gallery, Ottawa, IL – August 31, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Barn, Grundy County, IL – August 31, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Downtown mural (detail), Ottawa, IL – August 31, 2016.
Midwest Roads.
Patriotic Barn, Northern IL – August 29, 2016.
Midwest roads.
Blue Barn, Oswego, IL – April 2, 2016.
Midwest roads.
The lane, Schaumburg , IL – March 29, 2016.

TO BE CONTINUED!

NOTES:

for photograph 1-Dell Rhea’s Chicken Basket. http://www.chickenbasket.com/; https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/route66/dell_rheas_chicken_basket_hinsdale.html .

INTRODUCTION – Masters quotes from The Sangamon by Edgar Lee Masters with Introduction by Charles E. Burgess, University of Illinois Press, Urbana & Chicago, 1988 (first published 1942), p.6.

 

 

The amazing natural event of the eruption of Mount St. Helens, May 18, 1980. (39 photographs).

 

By John P. Walsh, May 18, 2016.

“Nobody lies about her lodestone any more. She burned and destroyed the whole park! Killed people too – what a pity! Only scientists are out there now. What’s there to see, dear? Isn’t it all in ruins?”

 

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The Mount St. Helens eruption, May 18, 1980.

This is what the lady innkeeper told me in Portland, Oregon, before I set out in the car one early July morning in the 1990s to visit the crater.

“It’s a pity she blew. It was such a pretty mountain before. WAS, I say. The kids loved camping at its base. It was so easy for them to get in and out. Then she blew and changed everything.” I waved my good-byes and started the two-hour drive.

1980-Mt-St-Helens-BEFORE-eruption USFS Photo #15 taken before 18 May 1980 by Jim Nieland,

As seen from Spirit Lake, Mount St. Helens in 1980 BEFORE the eruption on May 18, 1980. United States Forest Service (USFS) photo by Jim Nieland.

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Earthquakes, avalanches and a ten-minute eruption on May 18, 1980 toppled nearly 4,000 feet from the mountain summit.

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In April 1980 a bulge developed on the north side of Mt. St. Helens as magma pushed up inside it. Photo by Peter Lipman.

USGS vulcanologist Dave Johnston collects samples from Mount St. Helens crater lake on April 30, 1980

United States Geological Service volcanologist Dave Johnston collects samples from Mount St. Helens crater lake on April 30, 1980.

At 8:32 a.m. on Sunday, May 18, 1980, an earthquake followed by a landslide and near simultaneous volcanic blast changed forever – and in less than 10 minutes – a Cascades landscape of 230 square miles. Months before the unexpected blast, volcano watchers had camped near the mountain, including scientists and photographers, who were interested to gauge its recent unusual seismic and geological activity and capture what the mountain may do. Local property owners pressured authorities to be let back into their homes during this uncertain and, as it turned out, critically dangerous waiting period. Especially good weather brought out an extra contingent of weekend campers, backpackers and curiosity seekers to the mountain, many from Portland only 70 miles away.

Eruption Of Mt. St. Helens From Portland

Eruption Of Mt. St. Helens From Portland, ending 123 years of dormancy.

Everybody I talked to during my 1991 visit remembered 83-year-old Harry Randall Truman who lived by the mountain for over half his life and refused to leave in the days and weeks before the May 18, 1980 eruption. Not sure whether the mountain would blow or not, Truman, who served in the U.S. military in Europe in World War One, resigned himself to the mountain’s fiery whims. When the 1000-story high burbling volcano finally did blow, the avalanche and blast buried Mr.Truman, as it did Spirit Lake, in 350,000 acre-feet of fire and ash  debris. Mr. Truman’s body was never recovered nor did he represent the only loss of human life in the eruption. 

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Harry Randall Truman (1896-1980), who lived by Mount St. Helens for 54 years, died in the eruption after he refused to evacuate.

REID-BLACKBURN-297x300Reid Blackburn, 27, was a photographer at The Columbian newspaper in Vancouver, Washington. He was killed in the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens.

Reid Blackburn, 27, a photographer at The Columbian newspaper in Vancouver, Washington, was killed in the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. Blackburn got caught in the blast at Coldwater Camp. While his car and body were recovered four days later, his camera only resurfaced after a week.

camper containing two victims of the Mount St. Helens eruption sits amidst the gray landscape about 8 miles from the mountain may 20 1980

This camper contains two victims of the Mount St. Helens eruption in a gray landscape about eight miles from the mountain, May 20, 1980.

In this May 17, 1980 photo, 30-year old vulcanologist David Johnston is shown in the evening at his camp near what is now known as Johnston Ridge near Mount St. Helens.

The day before the blast – in this May 17, 1980 photo – 30-year-old volcanologist David Johnston is shown in the evening at his camp near what is now known as Johnston Ridge near Mount St. Helens. A principal scientist on the monitoring team, Johnston perished while manning an observation post 6 miles away on the morning of May 18, 1980. Johnston was the first to report the eruption, transmitting “Vancouver! Vancouver! This is it!” before he was swept away by the lateral blast. Johnston’s remains were never found, but state highway workers discovered remnants of his USGS trailer in 1993.

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Streets of Yakima, Washington, May 18, 1980.

Only a few months before my July 1991 visit the authorities had re-opened Mount St. Helens for the first time in more than a decade. It was named a National Volcanic Monument and deemed safe again for visitors. After Bear Meadow I followed the prolonged twisting road to past Ghost Lake, Meta Lake and Norway Pass until I reached Independence Pass. From its overlook I saw  for the first time the ashen slough that had been Spirit Lake. For years prior to May 1980 several camps inhabited the shore around the lake’s perimeter. There had also been various lodges around the oblong-shaped lake including the one Mr. Truman lived in. On May 18, 1980 Spirit Lake met the full impact of the volcano’s lateral blast. The sheer force of the blast lifted the lake out of its bed and propelled it about 85 stories into the air to splash onto adjacent mountain slopes. Despite the weeks of warnings about a potential eruption of Mount St. Helens, the sole film records of the actual event are in photographs.

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Spirit Lake a few days after the eruption on May 18, 1980.

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Mount St. Helens erupts at 8:32 a.m. on May 18, 1980. First in a series of photographs by Willard Pennell.

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Mt. St. Helens eruption: second in a series of photographs by Willard Pennell.

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Third in a series of photographs by Willard Pennell.

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Fourth in a series of photographs by Willard Pennell.

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Fifth in a series of photographs by Willard Pennell.

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Sixth in a series of photographs by Willard Pennell.

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Taken from a rest area near Lewiston, Idaho, on May 18, 1980, Mammatus clouds caused by volcanic ash hover over the Palouse of southeastern Washington, north central Idaho and northeast Oregon. Photograph by Betty Ehr.

At 8:32 a.m. on May 18, 1980 a 5.2-magnitude earthquake triggered the bulging north slope of Mount St. Helens to slice and fall away into the biggest debris avalanche in recorded history. This landslide was rapidly succeeded by the powerful lateral blast that sent scorching hot ash and rock hurtling out of the mountain at approximately 300 miles per hour, toppling and incinerating everything in its northward path. Fifteen miles away from the mountain temperatures reached Fahrenheit 572 degrees.

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Entering the “Restricted Zone” of Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument in July 1991. About eight miles away, the collapsed north face of the mountain looms in the distance. Mount St. Helens was partially destroyed by a series of earthquakes followed by the largest debris avalanche in history and a blast and pyroclastic flow that flattened everything in its path over 230 square miles.

While in 2016 plant and animal life continue to recover and augment as it has for decades now,  my boots in 1991 crunched into a gray, dusty moon-like surface. From Spirit Lake to Windy Ridge I was confronted by trees flattened like toothpicks as far as the eye could see, and a cauldron emitting wispy white smoke. The base of the mountain is four miles wide. The journey had taken me from civilization and delightful wilderness into mile upon mile of  badlands. My bodily presence was miniature in an immense, silent, and deserted landscape, the scene only a decade earlier of the most powerful natural event in the Continental United States in over one thousand years. While I heard some people talk about this volcanic eruption as comparable in its destructive power to that of a detonated atom bomb, I know that sort of comparison is ludicrous. For all its destructive force, this is not a disaster as it contains, if one requires patience to believe it,  a natural benignity – or what scientists  call a natural disturbance on a grand scale which allows mankind to study the natural cycle of death and life in a landscape. An atom bomb provides none of that -it only bestows extinction and contamination.

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A gray, dusty moon-like surface with trees flattened like toothpicks as far as the eye could see. At Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, July 1991. Photo John P. Walsh.

Ash and gas, accompanied by lightning, ascended 15 miles into the air at the speed of a mile a minute. In a blast that killed 57 people – many of whom were there to study and record its possible eventuality – it also decimated approximately 7,000 large animals and 12 million salmon. No trees of dense forest were left standing within 6 miles of the summit. Rescue operations continued for days with varied success.

Army National Guard helicopter pilot Harold Kolb rescues two men and their sons

Army National Guard helicopter pilot Harold Kolb rescues two men and their sons from the eruption of May 18, 1980.

horse rescuers gave up their efforts as they fled for their lives as flood waters from the Toutle Rive

Horse rescuers give up their efforts as they fled for their lives before flood waters from the Toutle River.

mudflow deposit covers Washington State Highway 504 near the town of Toutle, northwest of Mount St. Helens, to a depth of 2m (6 ft). USGSR.L. Schuster) #

Mudflow deposits cover State Highway 504 near of Toutle, to a depth of over six feet. Photo by USGS R.L. Schuster.

This aerial view shown May 23, 1980 from a search and rescue helicopter

This aerial view shown May 23, 1980 from a search and rescue helicopter.

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Encountering a washed-out road to the Mount St. Helens Visitor Center in late summer 1980.

in Moscow, Idaho more than 350 miles away (AP Photo Moscow-Pullman Daily News

Over 350 miles away from the eruption – in Moscow, Idaho, May 18, 1980.

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After the May 18, 1980 eruption, five more explosive eruptions took place at Mount St. Helens in 1980 including this spectacular one on July 22, 1980. Photo by Mike Doukas.

July-1980-Aerial-view-pryoclastic-flow-emerging-from-Mount-St_-Helens-craterUSGS Photo #22 taken at 701 p.m., on July 22, 1980, by Harry Glicken

July 1980 aerial view of pyroclastic flow from Mt. St. Helens. USGS Photo July 22, 1980, by Harry Glicken.

a helicopter stirs up ash while trying to land in the devastated area on August 22nd, 1980. USGSLyn Topinka

A helicopter stirs up ash while trying to land in the devastated area on August 22, 1980. Photo by Lyn Topinka United States Geological Service.

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An eruption from Mount St. Helens on March 8, 2005. In 2016 the volcano is showing increased signs of significant seismic activity. AP Photo/USGS Matt Logan.

Fireweed with Spirit Lake n September 4, 1984

Fireweed on the slopes of Spirit Lake only four years after the eruption (September 1984).

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Statue of a man planting trees, dedicated to those who replanted the area around Mount Saint Helens, Wash.

Statue of a man planting trees, dedicated to those who replanted the area around Mount Saint Helens after the eruption. In 2016 in nature it is survival of the fittest – while woody plants are beginning to appear with the promise of a forest, the boll weevil is eating the wood.

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Mount St. Helens. The volcano was particularly restless in the mid19th century, when it was notably active off and on for a 26-year span from 1831 to 1857. Canadian artist Paul Kane (1810–1871) painted Mount St Helens Erupting At Night in 1847 (Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto).

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Poster art of Mount St. Helen’s Eruption by Paul A. Lanquist. A view through the trees of the rising ash plume during the eruption of Mount St Helen’s on May 18, 1980 in Washington state. Once a dormant volcano, it is now quite active with frequent earthquakes and periodic plumes of steam and ash.

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Albert Bierstadt (1830-1902), Mount St. Helens, Columbia River, Oregon, oil on canvas mounted on panel, 18 x 32 1/4 inches (45.72 x 81.92 cm), Public collection.

©John P. Walsh. All rights reserved. No part of this material may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by an means, electronic  or mechanical, which includes but is not limited to facsimile transmission, photocopying, recording, rekeying, or using any information storage or retrieval system.